Darryl,
Bostick and Sullivan sell UV exposure boxes (see: https://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/17/) as does
Photographer's Formulary (see: https://stores.photoformulary.com/uv-light-box/). I think that these units are from the same manufacturer. Additionally, Jon Cone also sells a really high end unit, see: https://shop.inkjetmall.com/VerifiedUV-Exposure-System.html#attr=64274,64279,64281,64282
That said, making your own unit using prewired black light LED bars is trivially simple compared to the things you see on the web. I use these units (see: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NT6189) with great success in a simple plywood box.
Hope this helps,
Bostick & Sullivan sells them https://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/17/
Looks like Freestyle does as well; https://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/97-Darkroom/Darkroom-Equipment/UV-Lightsources
Darryl
I have one from Bostick and Sullivan for many years. I replaced the bulbs once and it works perfectly. I also have one of their printing frames. Both items are built well and should last. I use an external timer and just slide a double ply black mat board for timing test prints. Use eye protection. You want to keep the bulbs on during the printing session because they have to warm up first. It has a builtin fan.
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/
That said, making your own unit using prewired black light LED bars is trivially simple compared to the things you see on the web. I use these units (see: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NT6189) with great success in a simple plywood box.
Really? That seems so simple - the purple / blacklight ones are all I need? Do they work for cyanotypes, VDB, and platinum (not that I do all those, but someday...)? They just got put on my Amazon wish list.
Bethe,
Yup... it is that simple. Black light (from either tubes or LEDs) works for all of the alt processes with the exception of photopolymer gravure which requires a lower wavelength of light (and much more costly LEDs).. All of the iron-based processes (including VDB and Pt/Pd) should work with these LEDs as the photo-sensitive component (iron) in each has similar properties vis-à-vis their absorption of light..
Examples of cyanotypes (https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/finished-cyanotypes.177566/) and salted-paper prints (https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/wildlife-on-salted-paper.183884/) made using this light source can be found here.
These LEDs also works for Ziatype (a printing out version of palladium printing). I made my first Ziatypes last week and but haven't scanned them so I can't show them.
Exposure times with the four strips runs 8-15 min depending on process and density of the negative. I keep thinking of adding a second set of four bars to my box, but it isn't a high priority.
There is a bit more description of my UV box in post #5 of this thread... https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/diy-uv-box.180065/#post-2354103. One of these days I should make and post a photograph of my unit but making prints is much more fun! ;-)
I have a half dozen fluorescent black lights for cheap.Seriously, I cannot thank you enough. We don't get a ton of sunny days around here. Previous ideas have required more carpentry than I could do (and hubby is better with vehicles).
So, does anyone want the large and cumbersome NuArc Rapid Printer I got from Municibid?
Seriously, I cannot thank you enough. We don't get a ton of sunny days around here. Previous ideas have required more carpentry than I could do (and hubby is better with vehicles).
So, does anyone want the large and cumbersome NuArc Rapid Printer I got from Municibid?
I have a half dozen fluorescent black lights for cheap.
Still viable and and new tubes are available for a reasonable price. I have the unit stored for back up. I get good exposures at around 15-20 minutes depending on negative and process.Outdated technology... dispose of them properly as they contain mercury.
Did you get the vacuum frame with it? Those are quite handy as the provide very tight contact between the paper and negative. I got a NuArc platemaking set from work decades ago but the light never work. The vacuum bed was in great shape and I use it now with the leds for exposure. Under ten minutes, and if I cared to rearrange the strips closer together I could get shorter times.Seriously, I cannot thank you enough. We don't get a ton of sunny days around here. Previous ideas have required more carpentry than I could do (and hubby is better with vehicles).
So, does anyone want the large and cumbersome NuArc Rapid Printer I got from Municibid?
Did you get the vacuum frame with it?
Jon Cone's units are excellent, although not cheap. https://shop.inkjetmall.com/VerifiedUV-Exposure-System.html?category=515
Full disclosure: Jon installs my UV light integrators as an option, so I have a commercial interest.
Jon Cone's units are indeed very expensive and are overkill unless you want to do photopolymer gravure. Photopolymer gravure requires the short wavelength UV output provided by the Cone units.
Any of the iron-based alt processes (cyantotype, Pt/Pd printing, VDB, kallitype, etc) and salted-paper printing gain no benefit from the expensive short wavelength LEDs over the inexpensive blacklight LEDs as shown in the above posts.
I just upgraded by home built exposure unit from four of the strips used in video shown in post #18 to eight strips. The exposures for the Pt/Pd prints I made yesterday were in the 2-4 minute range... almost too short for my working rhythm.
Nope. I've done a fair bit of photopolymer and I still do a lot of PCB etching (the resist is pretty much the same stuff) and it responds perfectly well to the regular 385-400nm UV you get from tubes and cheap leds.Photopolymer gravure requires the short wavelength UV output provided by the Cone units.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?