Using Super Chromega & power supply with US plugs in UK & what timer to use?

[Ibanez]

Hello all

By way of reintroduction, I am a (young-ish) film photographer based in Kent in the UK. I am about to move into my first house with my Wife, and i am currently collecting all the last bits of equipment that I need to build a permanent darkroom. I have three enlargers, my main one being an Omega D2. It came with a very old Chromega with all of power cables cut off, so I was not able to use it. I mainly do B & W but I also wish to start colour printing at some stage as I have all of the gear to do so.

I have been using the D2 with the intrepid LED light source which works, as it sits on top of the negative carrier, but it is irritating as it moves around. I have thought about 3D printing a harness/cage for it but I just want to concerntrate on getting better as a printer.

I was scrolling ebay whilst bored at work and came across a Super Chromega (diocrhoic) version, which comes with the stabilser and accompanying power supply/transformer, all of which cost £40 excluding shipping. It was a gift from the gods, as these things are rather rare in the UK. The link can be found here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266726786316.

Looking at the photos on the listing, the plug which would power the entire thing appears to be an old US standard plug which was phased out in the early 70s. I had the idea of purchasing this (a UK to US) transformer from ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266718373503

In terms of the overall set up, the transformer would sit between the timer (with a UK standard plug - which I am yet to purchase, any reccomendations?) and the old US plug.


However, I realise that it may just be easier to get the plug rewired by a professional electrician to a UK plug as the power supply would regualate the power.

I am aware that i can also purchase a chromegatrol (what an awful word) from KHB but I would prefer to purchase this timer which I am about to purchase: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305411448231.

I am unsure of how to proceed as I am still getting my head around how the overall Omega D2/Omega Super Chromega set up works and would very much welcome a nudge in the correct direction.

Many thanks

Sam

 

[Ibanez]

Link to amazon transformer

Voltage Converter 2000W Step Up / Down UK to US Transformer 2 outlets Cantonape | eBay

(Conversely, use this unit for 220-240 Volt devices on 110-120 Volt power grid. when switching on): 2000 Watts.Maximum power in continuous operation (more than 30minutes): 1300 Watts. Output 110 Volts and 220 Volts AC: at the front of the converter is 2 US outlets for 110V-120V and 2 UK outlets...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[koraks]

Welcome aboard @Ibanez ! Your name suggests a secondary interest in music, perhaps?

I have been using the D2 with the intrepid LED light source which works

For color, you'll find that it's not very suitable. You're better off with a dichroic head unless you want to DIY something, or spend big bucks on a Heiland unit. So I think you're on the right track with your search.

However, I realise that it may just be easier to get the plug rewired by a professional electrician to a UK plug as the power supply would regualate the power.

Just to be sure - the power supply of the Super Chromega may be regulated, but if (!) it's designed for 110V, you can't assume it'll just work on 230V. It likely won't and may treat you to a hefty dose of fireworks and smoke if you try it anyway. You would indeed need a step-down transformer like the one you also linked to.

So far it's not clear whether the power supply for the Super Chromega is a 110V or 220V unit. If you've already bought it, just wait for it to arrive and inspect it; then take it from there. It may be a 110V unit and have been used with a step-down xformer by its former owner, or it may be a funny contraption with an unexpected kind of plug, but still a 220V unit. Who knows; it's old kit, anything might have happened to it and the seller evidently doesn't know what this is (they would have at least included a photo of the backside of the power supply!)

 

[Ibanez]

Welcome aboard @Ibanez ! Your name suggests a secondary interest in music, perhaps?



For color, you'll find that it's not very suitable. You're better off with a dichroic head unless you want to DIY something, or spend big bucks on a Heiland unit. So I think you're on the right track with your search.



Just to be sure - the power supply of the Super Chromega may be regulated, but if (!) it's designed for 110V, you can't assume it'll just work on 230V. It likely won't and may treat you to a hefty dose of fireworks and smoke if you try it anyway. You would indeed need a step-down transformer like the one you also linked to.

So far it's not clear whether the power supply for the Super Chromega is a 110V or 220V unit. If you've already bought it, just wait for it to arrive and inspect it; then take it from there. It may be a 110V unit and have been used with a step-down xformer by its former owner, or it may be a funny contraption with an unexpected kind of plug, but still a 220V unit. Who knows; it's old kit, anything might have happened to it and the seller evidently doesn't know what this is (they would have at least included a photo of the backside of the power supply!)

Hello!

Well spotted about my name, I grew up learning guitar on Ibanez super-strats!

Many thanks for confirming that the Intrepid LED head won't be suitable for colour. I'll keep it as a backup!

Definitely agree that patience will pay off here.

I have looked into the Heiland and it remains on my radar, but I will wait to see what state the head and PSU is in.

I will report back shortly!

 

[koraks]

Nice, music and photography go hand in hand. I think many of us are double duty that way.

Yeah, let us know what the state that dichroic head and its PSU are in and we'll take it from there.
The Heiland head is nice, but way expensive.

The problem with the Intrepid head is an unfortunate choice of LED wavelengths, but more importantly too limited filter resolution. This could be resolved by re-engineering the controller that comes with it so it breaks up the single expose into three separate ones, each with a different duration. You'll lose the ability to burn & dodge, and of course you'd have to figure out if it's feasible to reprogram the controller - or perhaps connect a DIY controller to their LED head. Unless you have an active interest in electronics and embedded systems, forget about all that for now; it's all time consuming and that time is much better spent on building your new home, darkroom, and getting some nice printing done!

 

[ic-racer]

The 'usual' USA version of the Chromega power supply does have three different adjustable primary taps on the the transformer. However they are only for 100V, 110V and 117V. No 220V (see below).

I'd just keep searchig until a 220V version comes available. In the mean time maybe repair the old Chromega if it still has its filters intact. Nothing fancy there, just a standar bulb.

 

[markbau]

Don't know if this is very relevant but when I moved back to Australia I brought my GraLab timer from the US with me (as long as a heap of other electrical appliances.) I got a 240v to 110v converter and everything worked well except for the timer. Apparently it was to do with the cycles of the voltage here in Australia. Anyway, when the timer said one minute had elapsed, 1min 20 sec had actually elapsed.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Don't know if this is very relevant but when I moved back to Australia I brought my GraLab timer from the US with me (as long as a heap of other electrical appliances.) I got a 240v to 110v converter and everything worked well except for the timer. Apparently it was to do with the cycles of the voltage here in Australia. Anyway, when the timer said one minute had elapsed, 1min 20 sec had actually elapsed.

That is probably designed for 60 Hertz and it is running on 59 Hertz. Get an inexpensive solid state time.

 

[MattKing]

That is probably designed for 60 Hertz and it is running on 59 Hertz. Get an inexpensive solid state time.

You probably meant 50 Hertz, rather than 59 Hertz.

 

[koraks]

Yeah, typo most likely. It used to be quite common to derive a clock signal from the grid frequency. I bet there are still quite a few enlarger timers around that operate on that principle. It doesn't matter though; some seconds are longer than others - no big deal!

 

[Ibanez]

Nice, music and photography go hand in hand. I think many of us are double duty that way.

Yeah, let us know what the state that dichroic head and its PSU are in and we'll take it from there.
The Heiland head is nice, but way expensive.

The problem with the Intrepid head is an unfortunate choice of LED wavelengths, but more importantly too limited filter resolution. This could be resolved by re-engineering the controller that comes with it so it breaks up the single expose into three separate ones, each with a different duration. You'll lose the ability to burn & dodge, and of course you'd have to figure out if it's feasible to reprogram the controller - or perhaps connect a DIY controller to their LED head. Unless you have an active interest in electronics and embedded systems, forget about all that for now; it's all time consuming and that time is much better spent on building your new home, darkroom, and getting some nice printing done!

Hello, so the head, PSU and solid state adapter turned up. The PSU is a this one (http://store.khbphotografix.com/120V-Power-Supply-for-Super-Chromega-D-and-E-Colorheads.html) so the transformer is definitely needed. I purchased this transformer from amazon as previously discussed.

The head itself is in good condition, it has the 4x5 mixing box and the three dichro filters seem fine. I will need to purchase the 3" extension arms from KHB once i have hooked up the Head & PSU to the mains here. I have a timer ready to be used (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305411448231) but I may need to buy a further plug adapter so the timer can be plugged directly into the PSU.

Any advice would be much appreciated, I am wary that I am going to blow myself up!

 

[Ibanez]

The 'usual' USA version of the Chromega power supply does have three different adjustable primary taps on the the transformer. However they are only for 100V, 110V and 117V. No 220V (see below).

I'd just keep searchig until a 220V version comes available. In the mean time maybe repair the old Chromega if it still has its filters intact. Nothing fancy there, just a standar bulb.

View attachment 366215

All noted, thank you! The head arrived yesterday and seems to be in good condition.

 

[koraks]

Any advice would be much appreciated, I am wary that I am going to blow myself up!

Nah, worst case you'll blow up the enlarger and burn down the house. Just put on your running shoes before you start.

All joking aside - it should work if you connect the 230-110V transformer to the timer and the enlarger to the transformer. The timer itself goes into your 230V wall outlet.

With a little bit of luck, the timer won't mind the transformer's inrush current. There's not all that much you can do about anyway, and it's not really a safety risk.

 

[Ibanez]

Nah, worst case you'll blow up the enlarger and burn down the house. Just put on your running shoes before you start.

All joking aside - it should work if you connect the 230-110V transformer to the timer and the enlarger to the transformer. The timer itself goes into your 230V wall outlet.
View attachment 366910
With a little bit of luck, the timer won't mind the transformer's inrush current. There's not all that much you can do about anyway, and it's not really a safety risk.

Love the diargram!! Looks like I need to buy a further lead which goes from the transformer to the timer which won't be too hard to find. Thanks again for the advice, very much appreciated.

 

[koraks]

You should be able to find such a cable, yes. It's a bit of an oddball because it'll be a male-male cable and in the power world, something like that isn't common for safety reasons (c.f. poka-yoke https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poka-yoke). Technically, a cable like that would allow you to connect one wall socket to another, which evidently is not a great idea. The reason for the exception in your case is that the transformer you bought can go either way (a convenient characteristic of transformers): up from 110 to 230 or down from 230 to 110. I guess this is why they only put female connectors on it.

 

[ic-racer]

Make sure you hook it up correctly as shown in your owner's manual. Probably won't blow up, but it won't work if not connected correctly. Here is a diagram if you have the Chromega D power supply shown in the schematic above in post #6.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That is probably designed for 60 Hertz and it is running on 59 Hertz. Get an inexpensive solid state time.

Yes, meant 50 Hertz.

 

[john_s]

I haven't looked closely at the power supply and transformer specifications, but make sure you get a transformer with enough capacity. I lent my Beseler 240V-to-110V transformer to a friend who had just returned from the USA with her 110V Christmas tree lights. The transformer lasted a few seconds before burning out.

Now I still use 110V darkroom with a generous capacity transformer from RS-Components.

 

[Ibanez]

Make sure you hook it up correctly as shown in your owner's manual. Probably won't blow up, but it won't work if not connected correctly. Here is a diagram if you have the Chromega D power supply shown in the schematic above in post #6.

View attachment 366928

Thanks yes I am familiar with this diagram from the Jollinger website. I wonder if I need a new timer to complete the circuit...

 

[Ibanez]

I haven't looked closely at the power supply and transformer specifications, but make sure you get a transformer with enough capacity. I lent my Beseler 240V-to-110V transformer to a friend who had just returned from the USA with her 110V Christmas tree lights. The transformer lasted a few seconds before burning out.

Now I still use 110V darkroom with a generous capacity transformer from RS-Components.

Thanks, the transformer I am getting has a power outut of 1000W, so that should be ok from my limited knowledge.

 

[ic-racer]

Thanks yes I am familiar with this diagram from the Jollinger website. I wonder if I need a new timer to complete the circuit...

You would need a 110/120v timer to hook it up the way it was intended.

The original Omega timer is nice. It actually bolts to the top of the power supply to make a single unit.

 

[mshchem]

Thanks, the transformer I am getting has a power outut of 1000W, so that should be ok from my limited knowledge.

Most of these that I see on Ebay will work with 50-60 Hz so if you get your transformer for the power supply and then find a timer for 240 50Hz that you can plug into the wall you should be good. Or you will get a big puff of smoke and all the lights will go out.

 

[Ibanez]

Thanks all, the transformer arrived and the fan in the head fired up! I need to rewire a c14 to a normal U.K. 3 pin wall plug (to go from the timer back into the transformer) and then test the bulb. Will report back.

If the bulb works I will then see if I can get a proper omega timer as suggested by IC-Racer.

 

[ic-racer]

As you work through this, that schematic above might need clarification, if you have not figured it out already. The timer plugs into the main power via the socket at the bottom of the diagram. From there, the switch controls power to the timer, which plugs into the middle socket. That way, the timer is not always connected to the main power, you can turn it off with that switch on the power supply.

Lastly, to get power to the main lamp, the timer has to output 120v to the third socket, the uppermost one.

 

[Ibanez]

As you work through this, that schematic above might need clarification, if you have not figured it out already. The timer plugs into the main power via the socket at the bottom of the diagram. From there, the switch controls power to the timer, which plugs into the middle socket. That way, the timer is not always connected to the main power, you can turn it off with that switch on the power supply.

Lastly, to get power to the main lamp, the timer has to output 120v to the third socket, the uppermost one.

Many thanks for the above, sourcing an appropriate timer from the US/looking into a suitable converter plug is my next step.