I have been using the D2 with the intrepid LED light source which works
However, I realise that it may just be easier to get the plug rewired by a professional electrician to a UK plug as the power supply would regualate the power.
Welcome aboard @Ibanez ! Your name suggests a secondary interest in music, perhaps?
For color, you'll find that it's not very suitable. You're better off with a dichroic head unless you want to DIY something, or spend big bucks on a Heiland unit. So I think you're on the right track with your search.
Just to be sure - the power supply of the Super Chromega may be regulated, but if (!) it's designed for 110V, you can't assume it'll just work on 230V. It likely won't and may treat you to a hefty dose of fireworks and smoke if you try it anyway. You would indeed need a step-down transformer like the one you also linked to.
So far it's not clear whether the power supply for the Super Chromega is a 110V or 220V unit. If you've already bought it, just wait for it to arrive and inspect it; then take it from there. It may be a 110V unit and have been used with a step-down xformer by its former owner, or it may be a funny contraption with an unexpected kind of plug, but still a 220V unit. Who knows; it's old kit, anything might have happened to it and the seller evidently doesn't know what this is (they would have at least included a photo of the backside of the power supply!)
Don't know if this is very relevant but when I moved back to Australia I brought my GraLab timer from the US with me (as long as a heap of other electrical appliances.) I got a 240v to 110v converter and everything worked well except for the timer. Apparently it was to do with the cycles of the voltage here in Australia. Anyway, when the timer said one minute had elapsed, 1min 20 sec had actually elapsed.
That is probably designed for 60 Hertz and it is running on 59 Hertz. Get an inexpensive solid state time.
Nice, music and photography go hand in hand. I think many of us are double duty that way.
Yeah, let us know what the state that dichroic head and its PSU are in and we'll take it from there.
The Heiland head is nice, but way expensive.
The problem with the Intrepid head is an unfortunate choice of LED wavelengths, but more importantly too limited filter resolution. This could be resolved by re-engineering the controller that comes with it so it breaks up the single expose into three separate ones, each with a different duration. You'll lose the ability to burn & dodge, and of course you'd have to figure out if it's feasible to reprogram the controller - or perhaps connect a DIY controller to their LED head. Unless you have an active interest in electronics and embedded systems, forget about all that for now; it's all time consuming and that time is much better spent on building your new home, darkroom, and getting some nice printing done!
The 'usual' USA version of the Chromega power supply does have three different adjustable primary taps on the the transformer. However they are only for 100V, 110V and 117V. No 220V (see below).
I'd just keep searchig until a 220V version comes available. In the mean time maybe repair the old Chromega if it still has its filters intact. Nothing fancy there, just a standar bulb.
View attachment 366215
Any advice would be much appreciated, I am wary that I am going to blow myself up!
Nah, worst case you'll blow up the enlarger and burn down the house. Just put on your running shoes before you start.
All joking aside - it should work if you connect the 230-110V transformer to the timer and the enlarger to the transformer. The timer itself goes into your 230V wall outlet.
View attachment 366910
With a little bit of luck, the timer won't mind the transformer's inrush current. There's not all that much you can do about anyway, and it's not really a safety risk.
That is probably designed for 60 Hertz and it is running on 59 Hertz. Get an inexpensive solid state time.
Thanks yes I am familiar with this diagram from the Jollinger website. I wonder if I need a new timer to complete the circuit...Make sure you hook it up correctly as shown in your owner's manual. Probably won't blow up, but it won't work if not connected correctly. Here is a diagram if you have the Chromega D power supply shown in the schematic above in post #6.
View attachment 366928
I haven't looked closely at the power supply and transformer specifications, but make sure you get a transformer with enough capacity. I lent my Beseler 240V-to-110V transformer to a friend who had just returned from the USA with her 110V Christmas tree lights. The transformer lasted a few seconds before burning out.
Now I still use 110V darkroom with a generous capacity transformer from RS-Components.
Thanks yes I am familiar with this diagram from the Jollinger website. I wonder if I need a new timer to complete the circuit...
Thanks, the transformer I am getting has a power outut of 1000W, so that should be ok from my limited knowledge.
As you work through this, that schematic above might need clarification, if you have not figured it out already. The timer plugs into the main power via the socket at the bottom of the diagram. From there, the switch controls power to the timer, which plugs into the middle socket. That way, the timer is not always connected to the main power, you can turn it off with that switch on the power supply.
Lastly, to get power to the main lamp, the timer has to output 120v to the third socket, the uppermost one.
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