• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Using Rollfilm MEGATANKS... problems?

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,985
Messages
2,848,423
Members
101,578
Latest member
Gear_monkey
Recent bookmarks
0

Sparky

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Messages
2,096
Location
Los Angeles
Format
Multi Format
I occasionally see these 20 foot long Nikor tanks (okay - not really 20 ft. - but you know what I mean), and I'm a bit intrigued about them... but I'm concerned they might be a problem for even development... anyone ever have experience with these? It'd be a GREAT workout though...!
 
we use 8 reels often with no ill effects.
 
I occasionally see these 20 foot long Nikor tanks (okay - not really 20 ft. - but you know what I mean), and I'm a bit intrigued about them... but I'm concerned they might be a problem for even development... anyone ever have experience with these? It'd be a GREAT workout though...!

I have a 6-holer. The trick is to fill the tank with dev; load the spools on a centre post; and drop them in, in the dark, as a batch before you put the lid on. With a long dev time (over 7-8 minutes) evenness ain't a problem, and you can even dump the dev through the light-trap; open the lid; and tip in the fix in normal room lighting. How much development will you get in <10 sec, even ignoring the induction period for the new exposure? This used to be an Ilford party-piece: dump the dev, take the lid off, walk across the room, and put the film in the fix...

But I find the 5-holer Jobo tanks on a CPE-2 easier.

Cheers,

R.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My largest holds 6 medium format reels and handle it just like Roger does. It's very handy if you've got a lot of rollfilm to process.
 
Good Evening,

Do the dump and fill steps (until fixer has done its job) with lights off. Otherwise, there's no particular problem except handling the awkward and somewhat heavy filled tank during inversions. It's mostly a matter of being careful.

Konical
 
If you wish to use a jumbo tank with putting the film into a dry tank, then all you need to do is use a water prewet for a few minutes. I favor 4 minutes, pour water out, pour developer in. Should have no problems. The only issue I have ever had with my 8 35mm reel tank, is muscle soreness from inversion agitation, as with 8 reels and a 1/2 gallon of developer its not light.
 
Yeah... hmmm... I never really thought of the time it takes to fill/evacuate the tank... since I don't have an integral darkroom - only my dry room is truly dark - and my processing room (for the meantime) is only for processing prints (doubles as my kitchen!), I'll probably not go with a HUGE tank... good stuff to think about.
 
8 reels for 35. less for 120 ,but same tank
 
Yeah, that's like my biggest one. 6 MF reels, and I generally think of it as 12 35mm reels, but maybe I could get another one in there. When I've come back from a trip where I've shot medium format, it's been very useful. You just need to pour the developer in in the dark and then lower the reels in and put on the cap. After that, you can proceed with the lights on.

If you have a LOT of film to process, the next step up is a 3.5 gallon 8x10" deep tank with a rollfilm cage. Those usually hold 40 35mm or 20 MF rolls.
 
Actually I HAVE a deep tank with a rack... but the tank needs repair - leaky bottom! Very leaky... i.e. - all the dev would drain out in about five minutes...! Hmm... I wonder - can one solder stainless steel? I suppose it might have an adverse effect on the chemicals... (heavy metals, etc..) - I suppose the solder would corrode quickly.
 
Deep tanks come up pretty cheap on eBay. I've accumulated a number of 5x7" hard rubber tanks. A few are leaky, and I started epoxying the leaky ones, but then I realized it was easier just to buy more of them and use the cracked ones as wash tanks or dry tanks for holding the hangers as I load them.
 
......I wonder - can one solder stainless steel? I suppose it might have an adverse effect on the chemicals... (heavy metals, etc..) - I suppose the solder would corrode quickly.
Silver solder--available at your local welding store. Works fine, doesn't affect the chemistry and does not corrode. That Nikor tank has it's bottom silver soldered.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom