Using Photographer's Formulary FA-1027 film developer

[Rick Bennett]

I've just begun to use FA-1027 film developer and I'm having a bit of a time getting my development times down. I normally use Tri-X 400 but I have 30 or so rolls of Plus-X 125 and Tri-X 320 in my freezer. I print with a cold light Aristo head. Do any of you folks have experience processing these films with FA-1027? Thanks for any advice you might have. Rick Bennett

 

[timor]

What is exactly your problem with the dev times ? This developer comes with a listing, but in reality it never works perfectly and everyone has to nail them individually for himself. Are you constantly under or over developing ? Is your thermometer good ? I have 5 lab thermometers and every one is a bit off. Are you using tap water or demineralized ?
On the other hand, where did you get Tri-X 320 in rolls ?

 

[Rick Bennett]

Tri X 320 & FA1027

Good evening,

I obtained the Tri X 320 film from a retailer's last stock. I think that I have 6 or 7 five roll boxes, all frozen since I purchased it. I'm not using it and would entertain an offer to purchase it. I've gotten the FA 1027 down finally. For Tri X and Plus X (I have a stash of that in the freezer as well) I'm diluting 1:9 and developing for both films for 6 and 1/2 minutes. I print with a cold light head and grade 3 paper.

 

[Old_Dick]

Hi Rick,

I've been using FA-1027 for a while, but not with the particular films you are using. The 6.5 minutes looks a little long especially for a grade 3 paper. Looking at http://www.digitaltruth.com which is where I got my starting numbers they say 5.5 minutes for 1+9. I've found that I use less time 1-1.5 minutes less then the recommendation. I use a grade 2 paper.


HTTY
Dick

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Do a simple test. Bracket your exposures in normal contrast lighting and develop with FA-1027 diluted 1+14, say 9 minutes.

Print the frames. Pick the one that has shadow detail that you like.

Shoot a roll at the film speed where you get what you like. Before processing, cut the film in thirds, and develop one third of it at a time. Analyze each third before you continue to the next one, by printing.
If you don't get enough contrast you need to develop longer. If you're getting too much contrast, develop shorter.

Now you have a base exposure and base dev time that works well for normal contrast lighting. 1, 2, 3, easy peasy. And you're not relying on somebody else's information either.