Using Flash on an HB 500 c/m

[bags27]

As others said, the SB-16 is an unusual flash because it could have either the regular (ISO) foot, or the special foot that fits over the F3 rewind knob (Each of the F, F2, F3 had an unusual flash coupler arrangement due to the exchangeable prisms).

The easiest way to do flash exposure without a flash meter or TTL is the way most people did it before TTL, which is to get a flash that has one or more "A" modes. You set the flash on "A" and, given the ISO, read the aperture off the flash for the "A" mode. For example, it says f/8, so you set f/8 on the camera, connect the PC output of the camera/lens to the flash, and the flash photocell reads the light reflected from the subject and cuts off the output when it thinks the exposure is complete. The SB-16 will do this, but so will the Vivitar 283, 285, Nikon SB-24,25,26,28, etc. These are all capable flashes that can be picked up for near nothing because they aren't TTL compatible with modern cameras.

The one thing to watch out for is that you want to do macro, and most A modes have a minimum flash-to-subject distance as well as a maximum. If you tripod mount the camera, and the min distance is say 3 feet, you can hold the flash up 3 feet away from the subject, using a pc cord to move the flash off camera. Or use the bounce feature of the flash to bounce light off a reflector. You'll generally get nicer lighting with off camera or indirect flash anyway. For more information about off camera flash and not using TTL, try reading the Strobist blog.

Thanks for this! Turns out there isn't a working SB-16 regular foot available anywhere on E-bay, and someone recommended the Vivitar with the extended sensor for macro work, so I grabbed one of those, too. I'll sort it all out and probably end up with spare parts for a camera swap at some point.

I really appreciate the points about macro shooting, which likely will be most interesting and most challenging, especially when I use extension tubes.

 

[BrianShaw]

There are a couple on ebay right now, including one currently listed as "untested". Theyre all relatively affordable and even the "untested" one is a good bet, especially because it ships free. There is little that can go wrong with them except getting separated from the rest of the SB-16 kit.

One thing to note about Vivitar flashes versus the Nikon - Nikon uses a standard PC on the flash and Vivitar has a proprietery connector on the flash. So if you are using a synch cord between the camera and the flash they will be different. If using a PC connected to hotshoe adapter then there is nothing different.

The Vivitar remote sensor cord is a really useful tool. Another useful accessory is a flash softening filter. The brand I used with the Vivitar, from about the mid-1980's, is Sto-Fen. Not sure if they are still around but there must be that or something like it on ebay. And, yes... you will accrue a bunch of stufff for a "junk box". I call it my flexibility/options box.

 

[bags27]

There are a couple on ebay right now, including one currently listed as "untested". Theyre all relatively affordable and even the "untested" one is a good bet, especially because it ships free. There is little that can go wrong with them except getting separated from the rest of the SB-16 kit.

One thing to note about Vivitar flashes versus the Nikon - Nikon uses a standard PC on the flash and Vivitar has a proprietery connector on the flash. So if you are using a synch cord between the camera and the flash they will be different. If using a PC connected to hotshoe adapter then there is nothing different.

The Vivitar remote sensor cord is a really useful tool. Another useful accessory is a flash softening filter. The brand I used with the Vivitar, from about the mid-1980's, is Sto-Fen. Not sure if they are still around but there must be that or something like it on ebay. And, yes... you will accrue a bunch of stufff for a "junk box". I call it my flexibility/options box.

Thanks, Brian. I confess to have got a bit scared off because, not only did it say "untested" but also "For parts or not working"

 

[bdial]

One nice feature of many of the Nikon flashes is that they have PC connectors for a cord, along with a hot shoe.
If I were buying a new flash to use with a Hasselblad, I’d check out some of the Godoy flashes that have round reflectors.
The rectangular reflectors of flashes meant for 35mm camera may not evenly illuminate your square frame.

 

[bags27]

One nice feature of many of the Nikon flashes is that they have PC connectors for a cord, along with a hot shoe.
If I were buying a new flash to use with a Hasselblad, I’d check out some of the Godoy flashes that have round reflectors.
The rectangular reflectors of flashes meant for 35mm camera may not evenly illuminate your square frame.

I thinnk the Godoy flashes are incredibly cool. I just don't know how to connect them to my Blad. (Is it just a PC cable?)

 

[Chan Tran]

As others said, the SB-16 is an unusual flash because it could have either the regular (ISO) foot, or the special foot that fits over the F3 rewind knob (Each of the F, F2, F3 had an unusual flash coupler arrangement due to the exchangeable prisms).

The easiest way to do flash exposure without a flash meter or TTL is the way most people did it before TTL, which is to get a flash that has one or more "A" modes. You set the flash on "A" and, given the ISO, read the aperture off the flash for the "A" mode. For example, it says f/8, so you set f/8 on the camera, connect the PC output of the camera/lens to the flash, and the flash photocell reads the light reflected from the subject and cuts off the output when it thinks the exposure is complete. The SB-16 will do this, but so will the Vivitar 283, 285, Nikon SB-24,25,26,28, etc. These are all capable flashes that can be picked up for near nothing because they aren't TTL compatible with modern cameras.

The one thing to watch out for is that you want to do macro, and most A modes have a minimum flash-to-subject distance as well as a maximum. If you tripod mount the camera, and the min distance is say 3 feet, you can hold the flash up 3 feet away from the subject, using a pc cord to move the flash off camera. Or use the bounce feature of the flash to bounce light off a reflector. You'll generally get nicer lighting with off camera or indirect flash anyway. For more information about off camera flash and not using TTL, try reading the Strobist blog.

Most older flashes are capable of having this A mode but very few new flashes have this feature. I know that Nikon top of the line flashes like the SB-800, 900 and 910 have this feature. I think the SB-5000 has it too. But lower level flashes like the SB-700, SB-600 don't. Also most new flashes like the Yongnuo and Godox don't have this feature either.

 

[BrianShaw]

One nice feature of many of the Nikon flashes is that they have PC connectors for a cord, along with a hot shoe.
If I were buying a new flash to use with a Hasselblad, I’d check out some of the Godoy flashes that have round reflectors.
The rectangular reflectors of flashes meant for 35mm camera may not evenly illuminate your square frame.

Both flash coverage and lens angles of view are in spec sheets. It’s not a problem with the Hesselblad lens and Nikon flash under discussion. Wider lenses and smaller flash reflectors may be a different story, no matter what shape.

 

[bags27]

Well, I found the correct Nikon SB-16 kit at the always interesting Victory Camera--a great guy and deserves the business, even if I suddenly went from no old flashes to 3 in one day! My camera swap box just got a lot bigger.

 

[Eff64]

I may have missed something, but I don’t think this is complicated.

Any flash that can be hooked to a PC cord will work with a Hasselblad. Your biggest issue will be calculating exposure.

As others have said, you could use a flash that is automatic which might be close enough on its own. This type of flash gear is very inexpensive if you need to buy some. Maybe <$50?