Using Filters on Fuji GA645W

[branki]

hej,
as I posted on a previous thread here in Apug, I am about to get a Fuji GA645W.

I'm gonna use it mainly for landscapes while hiking (starting this July).

I've read somewhere that the thread size in these cameras is 52mm (classical Nikon thread size).

Now the question: has any of you got any experiences using filters with these FUji's? If so, what sort of filters did you use?

I'm thinking of buying a Cokin P with ND grad filter(s) and probably a polarizer (slim W+B).



thanks!

 

[naeroscatu]

what lens do you have on the camera and what film are you going to use. for example polarizers don't work well on wide angle lenses and filters are kind of specialized btw B&W and color negative/ slide. There are many possible answers here...

 

[Thomas Wilson]

I think the wide version of the GA645 has a 45mm Fujinon. That's pretty wide for a polarizer filter. Just a matter of taste. Don't forget that this camera does not meter through the lens, nor do you view through the lens.

When I use a polarizer on my standard (60mm) GA645, I keep one on the camera and one in my pocket, both indexed to each other. I hold one up, view the scene while rotating it, and then match the indexing with the PL on the camera. This saves a lot of hassle.

 

[coigach]

Not quite an answer to your question, but it might help...!

I use a GA645zi when hiking (my normal landscape camera is a Pentax 67II system but this is too heavy for hiking far).

I just use my normal Lee ND Grad square filters, with a stepping ring for the smaller thread. I compose without the filters, and manually judge the area to be covered by the ND Grad. I do this by looking through the viewfinder then holding the filter to the light and roughly work out the area to be covered eg top third etc. I then screw the filter holder on with the filter at the right position.

It's a bit of a pain, but quite quick when you get used to it. It's less pain however than buying a new Lee Rangefinder filter system (how much? - yikes!) and a helluva lot less pain than hiking with my heavy Pentax 67 system around so I can use the filters 'normally'...!

You need to have the rangefinder tripod mounted to position the filters with any accuracy though - not a problem for me as I never photograph landscapes without one.

Cheers,
Gavin

 

[branki]

naeroscatu, It is a Fuji Ga645W, with a 45 f4, for 645 film size. ( a 28mm in 35mm film terms).

I know it is almost a rangefinder camera, but without the usual rangefinder.
I am familiar with rangefinders, having used a Bessa R and a Leica CL for a few years now. I've also read a bit about those polarizers for rangefinders, with a graduated mini-polarizer for the external-viewfinder and another one for the lens.

What I was after is to get feedback from real users. What do people that have these cameras (Fuji autofocus 645 fixed lens cameras) use in the field.

Do you think a Cokin P with ND Grads is worth having?


I plan on using Velvia 50 or 100 and probably black&white films (Neopan Acros or kodaktmax100).

thanks for the replies!

By the way Gavin, I was thinking about the Lee RF75 filter system, but it costs as much as the camera itself! They seem however really smart and tiny.

I was hoping not to have to use a tripod...

 

[k_jupiter]

I was all on this until you explained yourself.

You want to shoot slow speed films, hand held, with ND filters? Why? With the 45mm lens on 645, your depth of field isn't going to be noticeably different from f11 to f4. What exactly does it buy you?

Cornfused in san jose

 

[coigach]

I reckon you'll find it difficult to use any square filters (eg Cokin, Lee) on a rangefinder with any real accuracy if you don't use a tripod.

Also, using a tripod allows you to stop down to f22 for pin sharp pictures.

Cheers,
Gavin

 

[branki]

Hej Gavin,

that's true for sure.

I guess then soft Grad ND filters might be "safer" to use.

I hope I can order the camera over the weekend so I can report back on my "filtering"...

 

[TimVermont]

I have and use a GA645W.
For traveling the most useful things I've found are the rectangular Hama wide-angle shade in 52mm. (it fits with a lever-clamp, and does _not_ vignette the image) and a polarizer with verner (index marks) so that you can set it by looking through it, then screw it on and return to the same setting. I think you will find getting your fingers in behind the Cokin filter holder to operate the lens settings, and the use of grads to be a pain. Good Luck!

Tim

 

[branki]

Hej Tim,
thanks for the tips!

I've been thinking into getting myself one of these vernier polarizers...
I'll take a closer look at the Hama wide angle shade, doesnt the camera come with a shade already? I've seen square ones on many ads.

K_jupiter, I want to use ND grad filters, to gain control over dark/bright areas of the final picture.


My camera is arriving on friday, I can't wait to get out and start using it!


thanks everyone for the replies!

 

[k_jupiter]

Hej Tim,
thanks for the tips!

I've been thinking into getting myself one of these vernier polarizers...
I'll take a closer look at the Hama wide angle shade, doesnt the camera come with a shade already? I've seen square ones on many ads.

K_jupiter, I want to use ND grad filters, to gain control over dark/bright areas of the final picture.


My camera is arriving on friday, I can't wait to get out and start using it!


thanks everyone for the replies!

I see. Make those blue skies blue in B&W.

tim in san jose

 

[branki]

K_jupiter, I dont quite get the irony...

 

[k_jupiter]

K_jupiter, I dont quite get the irony...

No irony. I said I understood. In black and white film, the sky blows out because the spectrum of blue overwhelms the ability of most panchromatic films sensitivity to other colors. Hence if you use a grad ND filter correctly, you can cut down on the exposure in one area of the negative i.e. the sky.

Not my cuppa tea, but I do understand at least that part of it. What did you think I meant?

tim in san jose

 

[branki]

That was the "problem", I didnt understand what you meant.
Now I do,
thanks for the explanation.


May I ask you why don't you like ND grad filtering?



cheers,

Juan

 

[k_jupiter]

That was the "problem", I didnt understand what you meant.
Now I do,
thanks for the explanation.


May I ask you why don't you like ND grad filtering?



cheers,

Juan

I'm kind of a conservative when it comes to filters. I own a red filter (hardly used), a medium yellow (used for bright landscape days), and a polarizer (it was cheap). I balance my exposures by careful metering and development process control. Most of my exposures are single sheet or 120 roll film mostly shot on one subject. Control is pretty easy even without ND grad filters.

tim in san jose

 

[coigach]

I'm kind of a conservative when it comes to filters. I own a red filter (hardly used), a medium yellow (used for bright landscape days), and a polarizer (it was cheap). I balance my exposures by careful metering and development process control. Most of my exposures are single sheet or 120 roll film mostly shot on one subject. Control is pretty easy even without ND grad filters.

tim in san jose

These are all valid reasons when using print film.

The original poster intends to use transparency film too though (Velvia has particularly limited exposure latitude) so ND Grads essential to get the best out of transparency film in my opinion.

Cheers,
Gavin

 

[coigach]

I reckon you'll find it difficult to use any square filters (eg Cokin, Lee) on a rangefinder with any real accuracy if you don't use a tripod.

Also, using a tripod allows you to stop down to f22 for pin sharp pictures.

Cheers,
Gavin

Hello Branki,

Any update on how you managed with the filters?

Cheers,
Gavin