Using an AF Nikon As An Exposure Meter

[ic-racer]

Obviously exposure meters hold the reading when you release a button.

I see Nikon has included spot meters in some of the cameras I own. However, it seems a little useless because when I release the button the exposure information is erased.

I don't think I'm the first one to want to use a Nikon like an exposure meter, so I suspect someone has figured this out already, but I'm only just starting to go through the 191 page manual for my F6.

Sure, I can use Manual and 'zero the needle' while holding the metering spot in the exact location, but the Sekonic does a spot reading so much easier, by just releasing the button.

Seems crazy to have such a sophisticated camera but still have to carry my Sekonic meter.

If I find the answer to store an exposure reading on a Nikon, I'll post it to my own thread here.

 

[ic-racer]

CSM c2 on page 93 F6 English manual PDF. Seems to indicate it can be configured to hold the reading after releasing the button. I'll try and see.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Before I bought a Pentax Digital Spot Meter I use my Nikon F100 with a 28mm to 300mm AF lens at 300mm as a spot meter for my Hasselblad.

 

[ic-racer]

Yes!! Page 99. You can set the AE-L button to hold the spot reading when you release the button just like a hand-held spot meter. Now to see if this function is available on any of my other Nikons with spot meters.

 

[ic-racer]

Ok great, found it in the f100 manual page74 "Auto exposure lock remains after removing finger from button."
I have only had the camera 8 years and never used the spot meter. Now I know!

 

[ic-racer]

So, how to get the zones; easy the Zone is ( 5 + EV) where EV is the exposure compensation pressing the (+/-) button. So if metering Zone II with the built-in spot meter, put the metering point on the subject then press and release AE-L. You can set the Zone of that reading with the (+/-) button. For example Zone II is EV -3. (5 + (-3) = 2)

 

[Huss]

What is nice about the F6 is that you can set it to hold the AE lock even after you take a pic. It will only drop the AE lock if you push the button again, or turn off the camera.
Lesser cameras like the F100 drop the exposure lock after each shot.

 

[Sirius Glass]

What is nice about the F6 is that you can set it to hold the AE lock even after you take a pic. It will only drop the AE lock if you push the button again, or turn off the camera.
Lesser cameras like the F100 drop the exposure lock after each shot.

Not lesser cameras, better and lighter. No truss needed. Besides when using a Nikon AF camera as a spot meter, there is no need for the exposure after one has taken the reading. Who needs training wheels.

​

 

[Huss]

Not lesser cameras, better and lighter. No truss needed. Besides when using a Nikon AF camera as a spot meter, there is no need for the exposure after one has taken the reading. Who needs training wheels.

​

Just be glad no-one mentioned the snapping like a dry twig back door.

 

[ic-racer]

Just got back from my first day using the F6. It was snowing and raining, so I also brought the Nikonos just in case. Wound up using them both.
I did not have a chance to use the spot meter, I was using mostly TTL matrix flash.

 

[ic-racer]

I have never held an F5, but to compare the F100 and F6, they look more related to each other. After having used an F100 for many hears, the F6 is easy to use and feels very similar.

One advantage of a gray market f6. I got all the bodies in the picture for $1600.They are all like new.

 

[mshchem]

If you have a older Nikon DSLR like a D200. Put it in manual, spot meter you get a real time proof.

 

[mshchem]

F5 has the big battery built in F6 gives you the option of not lugging all that weight with a lot of nice upgrades. I have a couple F5 bodies, they fit my hands, I have had D3 and D5 everything feels the same. I would love a F6 but I think the prices for F6 are just going up.

 

[Paul Howell]

I use a digital body as a spot mete, or in matrix metering mode, get a somewhat rough test, I normally use my old Pentax K2000 in black and white function.

 

[Cholentpot]

I use a DSLR all the time as a meter.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use a DSLR as a doorstop all the time. It also works well as a wheel chock. Or a bookend.

 

[ic-racer]

My wife had a DSLR quite a few years ago. I think she used it until the battery discharged, saw that a new battery was $50 and gave up on it. I think it is still around the house somewhere. It had a Nikon lens on it. I tried the lens on my camera once but it made a circular image; what were they thinking?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I quit from using of (D)SLRs as exposure meters.
Mobile phone exposure metering app allows to select which spot to meter. Once it is metered, it is possible to take the screenshot of the app.

 

[Huss]

It just seems weird lugging along a big camera just to use it as a light meter.
Then again I do take a pickaxe with me to breakfast.

 

[Cholentpot]

I quit from using of (D)SLRs as exposure meters.
Mobile phone exposure metering app allows to select which spot to meter. Once it is metered, it is possible to take the screenshot of the app.

I've never had luck with lightmeter apps on my phone.

It just seems weird lugging along a big camera just to use it as a light meter.
Then again I do take a pickaxe with me to breakfast.

I'm already lugging around a bag full of equipment if I need an external meter. Throwing in an EOS 500n with a 40mm lens doesn't take much room.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I'm using an Olympus E-PL1 micro 4/3 camera as a meter. What I do is just shoot the picture after I'm happy with the exposure and histogram. That way I've recorded the exposure which I can transfer to notes when I get home. And use that information to transfer to my film camera settings by just looking at the picture I just snapped. . I have all the exposure readings, the picture, and the histogram. The only issue I have is exposure only goes to f/22 and my film camera can go smaller than that. Also, the digital camera only goes to 100 ISO and I often shoot Velvia 50. So I have to add a stop in my head.

The camera has spot metering. But I haven't used it. I've been trying to just look at the screen and histogram to make sure I'm not clipping the highlights for chrome film and covering the shadow areas for BW negative film. I'm still learning the process as it's pretty new to me. So I won't guarantee this is the best way of doing it. I'm still experimenting.

 

[BradS]

I've never had luck with lightmeter apps on my phone...

I was very skeptical but decided to try one. It’s called simply, myLightMeter. I have iPhone 6 and 7. The app works so well that I stopped carrying a real (gossen) light meter. I think I did pay for this app...maybe $2.99?

 

[Cholentpot]

I was very skeptical but decided to try one. It’s called simply, myLightMeter. I have iPhone 6 and 7. The app works so well that I stopped carrying a real (gossen) light meter. I think I did pay for this app...maybe $2.99?

Pay? For an app?

Seriously. I guess if you pay to play the products are better.

 

[ic-racer]

I'm exploring some of the hidden functions of the N75. It appears that the N75 also will meter with a spot in the center of the field. It is a little harder to do. One has to go into the CUSTOM menu (yes the N75 has a CUSTOM menu!) and set the AF-L switch to SPOT meter. The switch only holds the value while it is pressed, but it will do a spot reading. Again, like the other autofocus F cameras, there is a virtual ZONE DIAL in the camera in the form of the EV +/- function.
So, to meter Zone II, set the EV dial to -3 (Zone = 5 + EV).

Pressing the (+/-) button while holding the AF-L, shows you the Zone being metered.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I'm exploring some of the hidden functions of the N75. It appears that the N75 also will meter with a spot in the center of the field. It is a little harder to do. One has to go into the CUSTOM menu (yes the N75 has a CUSTOM menu!) and set the AF-L switch to SPOT meter. The switch only holds the value while it is pressed, but it will do a spot reading. Again, like the other autofocus F cameras, there is a virtual ZONE DIAL in the camera in the form of the EV +/- function.
So, to meter Zone II, set the EV dial to -3 (Zone = 5 + EV).

Pressing the (+/-) button while holding the AF-L, shows you the Zone being metered.

If you have a zoom lens, you can make the spot smaller or larger as necessary.