Mainecoonmaniac
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I finally ordered some Xtol from hearing all the raving from APUGers. I also surfed the web about the developer. I plan to use it replenished. I think it's about 70ml per 80sq inches of film. Anyway, I've been hearing the useful life is about 6 months, while some say the useful life is indefinite. So what's your experience with Xtol reenished?
Hey Mark,
Thanks for the quick response. I don't process a lot of film only 10 rolls a month or sometimes a dozen sheets if 4x5 per month. Would Xtol last indefinitely when stored in a full, tightly stoppered bottle?
With that volume, why don't you simply use one-shot development? It will be far more consistent.
In this case the stock solution will last about six months if stored in full bottles. It might last longer, but it can fail suddenly.
Here is a cut and paste of two posts I made to Photo Net in 2008.
(P.S.) I still am setting aside bottles of Xtol 2x stock and testing it to see if it is still good. I have never had a failure even with 3 year old 2x stock stored as described below.
Brian Quinn , Jul 27, 2008; 11:25 a.m.
I make Xtol up at 2x concentration and store it in 11oz. (330ml) Perrier water bottles. I tried to store in my darkroom fridge and it did crystallize but at room temperature it was fine (No Crystals). I open a bottle and dilute it 1:1 and that gives me 660ml of 1x developer for my tank. So I am always using developer from a full bottle. I have used bottles over 3 years after mixing it up and all is fine.
Brian Quinn , Jul 29, 2008; 10:38 a.m
One thing I forgot to point out in my earlier post is a key thing about long term storage of chemicals is to USE GLASS BOTTLES WITH METAL CAPS.
I little known fact is that plastic bottles will let oxygen in even if they are well capped. The oxygen will diffuse through the plastic (even a plastic cap) and oxidize the contents of the bottle. This is the reason that beer is sold in glass bottles with metal caps. Just a little oxidation of the beer ruins the taste. Beer that is sold in plastic bottles at sporting events has a very short shelf life. This is not usually a problem at a game as all the beer goes away very fast.
That's intriguing. So what did you like better? The film souped in Rodinal or Xtol? What characteristic difference between the negs?On a side note. I recently out some Fomapan 100 in 120 size.
Shot off 6 test exposures. 3 in sun and 3 in open shade at EI 80, 125 and 200. Then repeated the same 6 shots again. I cut the roll in half. One half went into Rodinal 1+50 for 7.5min and the other into Xtol 1+0 for 5 min at 20C.
I must say I like both results but there is a very dramatic difference between two developers. Very much like shooting 2 different films. If you have not tried it out look into this film.
That's intriguing. So what did you like better? The film souped in Rodinal or Xtol? What characteristic difference between the negs?
I would chose between developers based on the subject. If it was a photograph of a NICE child I would pick Xtol for nice smooth grain and gradation. If it were a photo of a GRUMPY KID I think the sharp and grainy Rodinol would work better. For a low grain scenic Xtol. For a dramatic misty morning maybe Rodinal. For a fine fabric Xtol. For old farm equipment Rodinol.
You get the idea. One film in the bag and you chose what mood you would like the print to convey. Then chose the developer.
I found that after two years of replenishment of XTOL, the developer begins to slow down [proper time, slightly underdeveloped negatives]. So it is time to dump it by then.
Steve
So Xtol can be over seasoned? But do you get better results with replenished Xtol than using it one shot?
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