Update on delivery status of LomoGraflok instant back

Cholentpot said:

This I've not tried. I wouldn't think it would work though.

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If it doesn't, it won't work on the Instax film, either -- or else your LomoGraflok and your focusing shim aren't the same depth.

Donald Qualls said:

If it doesn't, it won't work on the Instax film, either -- or else your LomoGraflok and your focusing shim aren't the same depth.

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I've got to read that again.

I'll give this a go.

Shim in place, front set back to where I found it aligns with Instax and the RF should line up with the GG?

Hi, below is the longer post I did for this particular combo. It is not the easiest to look through VF/RF, but doable. I have a smaller nose. But the back does not stay with the 3D printed Graflok that securely, so I have to use some duct tape to be sure.

Polaroid 110A Instax Wide conversion, using the following components:

1) Polaroid 110A (or 110, or 110B)
2) Polaroid 110A Graflok conversion kit by Aaron (off eBay)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133579892124
3) Lomography LomoGraflok 4×5 Instant Back
https://shop.lomography.com/en/lomo-graflok-instant-back

Overall it works well:

1) Rangefinder focusing works well, which is a huge plus compared to ground glass focusing on a typical 4x5 camera. So now I can do handheld portraits without a tripod, and no need for talent to wait forever. Aaron kindly provided a 3D printed focusing scale especially for the LomoGraflok back, so the added distance is already taken into account. So I can use either rangefinder or the focusing scales on the 110A.

2) The conversion is quite easy for novices, without needing any cutting tools. And it is reversible, if you ever wanted to restore the 110A.

3) There is no modification to the LomoGraflok Instax back, so I can still use it on a regular 4x5 camera.

There a few areas that could use some improvements:

1) Adding aa horizontal lock mechanism. Currently the Lomo Instax back can slide horizontally (left and right) about half an inches, even after locking both top and bottom sliders. This might accidentally expose the film to light. Right now I use duck tape for extra security.

2) Use a thin sheet metal slider for the top to lock in the Instax back. The reason is that the current 3D printed slider is a tad bit too think, and the instax film ejection curved towards it so the 3D printed slider blocked the smooth ejection of Instax film. So right now, I have take off the LomoGraflok back each time to eject a sheet of film. I would love to be able to keep the back on and finish entire 10 sheet pack.

3) Overall ergonomics is not great, mainly issue with the 110A shutter mechanism. It is a bit wobbly to trigger the shutter in 110A, which results in motion blur in the final image. I think a handle with long cable release might solve the problem.

richyd said:

That looks a lot thicker than I imagined. How to you manage to look thought the viewfinder? I was thinking of getting one for my 110B conversion but not sure now.

The 4x5 adapter looks good is that something you designed yourself? I got one designed by someone else 3D printed but the graflok mechanism is crude and fiddly.

Richard

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Cholentpot said:

Shim in place, front set back to where I found it aligns with Instax and the RF should line up with the GG?

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Correct.

Donald Qualls said:

Correct.

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Just checked using this method. You're right, RF is out of whack. Back to the drawing board.

And if that's a Super, it's the one that needs a cam matched to the lens? Ugh.

Donald Qualls said:

And if that's a Super, it's the one that needs a cam matched to the lens? Ugh.

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Nope,

Plain 'ol Crown Graphic.

Top RF? Or side (and if the latter, Kalart or whatever the other one was)?

Right side. Kalart.

Those were designed to be user calibrated, and there are good instructions here, but not everyone is comfortable poking into stuff they can't readily replace. Meanwhile, you should be fine focusing with the ground glass and using the focusing shim. Not much good for action, but works fine for scenes and still life.

Donald Qualls said:

Those were designed to be user calibrated, and there are good instructions here, but not everyone is comfortable poking into stuff they can't readily replace. Meanwhile, you should be fine focusing with the ground glass and using the focusing shim. Not much good for action, but works fine for scenes and still life.

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Which is a bummer because I specifically want this setup for run and gun.

Might still be okay for street, though. Much of that is presets, including focus, then raise and shoot. You can focus at your preferred distance, and lock the focus (at least my Annie has this), set your exposure, cock the shutter, and fire when ready. With ISO 800 you can use a pretty reasonable aperture, f/11 to f/16 if the weather is good, and still keep the shutter speed up enough to minimize shake. Don't forget, on instant prints, you don't need to worry about enlargement (unless you're going to scan them to a 60" TV).

The photo looks great!!! I have the Lomo back, but have yet to run it through any tests!!!

Cholentpot said:

I've got it calibrated now. After a few more sheets (been through a pack an a half) I installed the chucks at 23.5mm from the infinity chucks. These cameras are old, things get wobbly over 70+ years. I'm going to assume that's what's going on.

Final sheet after I installed the chuck. f/between 8 and 11, 1/400

It's tack sharp and looks far better with eyeballs Mk1.

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Brian B Bednarek said:

The photo looks great!!! I have the Lomo back, but have yet to run it through any tests!!!

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It's calibrated for that distance and that distance only. Better than nothing I suppose. Fixed focal.

Cholentpot said:

It's calibrated for that distance and that distance only. Better than nothing I suppose. Fixed focal.

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If that's a top RF, that means your cam and lens don't match, so it's not calibrated for the original film plane and infinity stops, either. Need to find the correct cam for your lens, cut a new cam, or find the correct lens for your cam.

Donald Qualls said:

If that's a top RF, that means your cam and lens don't match, so it's not calibrated for the original film plane and infinity stops, either. Need to find the correct cam for your lens, cut a new cam, or find the correct lens for your cam.

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Side mount. It just needs a slight calibration, stops and cams are correct.

Ah, that's right, you have a Kalart. Yep, just need someone with good confidence to calibrate it for your lens.

I ordered mine in early January and it arrived today in Ireland, havent put any film through it yet, just wanted to add my bit for the tracking

Supply times seems O.K then . I think it's about time I should be getting one ordered .