Unknown roll of 127

Kirks518 said:

They look great! I'd guess 1962? How far from Minot are you? It would be really cool if you could find the family and get the negs to them. You may contact a local TV station, that's sometimes a good 'human interest' story on slow news days.

So what developing method and time you end up using?

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Thanks, in all honesty I'm really surprised I got the results I did. I thought I was prepared and then it went downhill! I only mixed enough HC110 to do a one shot and once it was applied to the tank that was it. When I went to agitate, it turns out the JOBO wasn't sealed properly and for the life of me I couldn't get it to reseal. So I ended up pouring quite a bit out. I then quickly made another one shotish and guestimated what I needed to replenish what I lost. All in all, I'm sure they aren't the best negatives that have ever been processed but I got images and so I was pretty stoked on that! I ended up doing a 5min soak with tap water and what I dumped out was a very dark green liquid. After that I did the HC-110 dilution G (syrup 1:119) for 60min (all temps were right in the range of 68-69.2 degrees). I only ended up agitating for about 20 seconds initially then once again in more of a "swirling" motion 25min deep. From there, stop bath-rinse for 5 minutes with ilfostop. Ilford rapid fixer for 5 minutes. Final rinse for 10 minutes then a photoflo bath for 30seconds which in actuality was just a small drop of jet dry.
In hindsight, I don't think I got the roll properly fed on the reel so there might have been overlap there causing a minor flaws or the jet dry didn't quite work as I feel like there were a couple of water spots that had dried. All in all, it was a great experience and I'm happy to have got images. I am from Minot, and am currently here so I have put them out in the usual social media formats hoping for a bite. Perhaps it was meant to be. I say that because the camera was bought at a thrift store in Grand Forks on the east side of the state (about three hours away) so you can imagine my surprise to see the Minot sign in the background. All in all pretty neat.

Oh and here is my ultra professional lightbox, iphones and an old projector!

Thanks. I love the mystery of old film.

120 is decidedly easier to work with at this point in time. 127 is fun and the cameras can be very small and cute, especially the "baby" TLRs.

Shannon L Reiswig said:

That's good to know. So with Semi-Stand, how long is that process in the Rodial?

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It takes one hour. I give it about 10 inversions at the start, 3 inversions at 30 minutes and done at 60 minutes. I don't worry about the temperature, I just use cold tap water. Rinse with water then normal fix.

BAC1967 said:

It takes one hour. I give it about 10 inversions at the start, 3 inversions at 30 minutes and done at 60 minutes. I don't worry about the temperature, I just use cold tap water. Rinse with water then normal fix.

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That's good info. Do you feel that the Rodial is superior to HC110? I was thinking about trying my hand at developing a couple rolls of 35mm color kodak and fujifilm. I have read that the negatives turn out orangish but I'm thinking why not.

The gummed label says to take the film back to Sears for processing. It does not say that the film has the Sears name. Sears sold several brands of film including their own rebrand. That being said Sears rebranded several manufacturers film over the years. From my experience during the 60's Sears B&W roll film was made by Agfa.

The rebranded film did not have any edge markings identifying it. So you are left with only the paper wrapping for any clues.

Shannon L Reiswig said:

That's good info. Do you feel that the Rodial is superior to HC110? I was thinking about trying my hand at developing a couple rolls of 35mm color kodak and fujifilm. I have read that the negatives turn out orangish but I'm thinking why not.

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I haven't used HC110 but from what I've read Rodinal seems to be preferred for stand development, especially if you are cross processing color film. Rodinal will develop anything. You do get an orange cast that will be blue when you reverse the negative. It will look like a cyanotype. I just convert it to black and white.

BAC1967 said:

I haven't used HC110 but from what I've read Rodinal seems to be preferred for stand development, especially if you are cross processing color film. Rodinal will develop anything. You do get an orange cast that will be blue when you reverse the negative. It will look like a cyanotype. I just convert it to black and white.

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Excellent, thanks for the info.