Unidentified orange bulk Film.?

[Dennis S]

Swap meet in Vancouver. Picked up a few lenses I didn't know I needed but also bought a bulk film loader that already had film in it. Does anyone know what this film might be.? I know I can expose some and then develop in Rodinal but someone else may use this film. I tried Googling orange film but was unsuccessful so far.

 

[eatfrog]

color negative

 

[Dennis S]

color negative

Any brand in particular.? C-41 or E-6.?

 

[cmacd123]

hard to say, But likly a negative film. does the back have a dull finish or is it shinny.

 

[Dennis S]

It's shiny and pink on the emulsion side and it is also very thin. I'll just shoot a few frames and then dev. C-41 that was recommended elsewhere. Feels like there is a fair amount in there so it's worth the gamble.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Missed the swap meet.... again. Maybe one of these years I'll remember!

 

[mohmad khatab]

Hello my colleague .
I think maybe this is a straight positive black and white ORWO >> It was so orange, I got it by chance from one of the very old photographers and it was packed in a Forte cassette >> I had a little snippet of it one day but I failed to deal with it. It's slow. Very maybe ISO 25 or something like that, and I didn't know that and I shot it as ISO 100.
This is what happened to me last year.
This does not necessarily mean that the same condition will be identical to yours. But it is just a possibility that can be true or false.

 

[Dennis S]

Hello my colleague .
I think maybe this is a straight positive black and white ORWO >> It was so orange, I got it by chance from one of the very old photographers and it was packed in a Forte cassette >> I had a little snippet of it one day but I failed to deal with it. It's slow. Very maybe ISO 25 or something like that, and I didn't know that and I shot it as ISO 100.
This is what happened to me last year.
This does not necessarily mean that the same condition will be identical to yours. But it is just a possibility that can be true or false.

Thanks for the tip. I have some Kodak Positive film also but that was a white colour not the brilliant orange as seen here. I sent a message to George at Orwo NA as he is the person who knows Orwo film so he may be able to help me with my dilemma. With all the photographers here there must be someone who has used this film previously.

 

[Dennis S]

It must have been old Orwo film as I contacted George from OrwoNA and he has never seen anything like that in his collection. Anything purple yes but not orange and now I am going through Kodaks film now to try to find the proper film.

 

[Don_ih]

The best plan is to load 12 inches into a camera, take six shots at iso 3, 6, 12, 25, 50, 100, develop the strip in d76 straight for 8 minutes, see what you get. There may be no edge markings. If it's colour film, it'll still be brown when developed. If it's b&w, you'll get an idea of a speed.

 

[MattKing]

Are those motion picture or still film sprockets?

 

[NB23]

Very orange and a bit see through: ortho litho.

Otherwise; color c41

 

[MattKing]

Thread title updated to assist.
FWIW, the film doesn't look orange on my screen. Do you have any identified film that you could photograph beside it, for comparison purposes? Something like unidentified film on the left, and TriX on the right?

 

[Dennis S]

Are those motion picture or still film sprockets?

They are the KS sprockets and definitely bright orange as the camera I used doesn't show colour properly as you can't expect much from a digital camera. ;o) Also the emulsion side is pink and it's not very thick but I am glad I had sharp scissors with me.

 

[Dennis S]

The best plan is to load 12 inches into a camera, take six shots at iso 3, 6, 12, 25, 50, 100, develop the strip in d76 straight for 8 minutes, see what you get. There may be no edge markings. If it's colour film, it'll still be brown when developed. If it's b&w, you'll get an idea of a speed.

I shot about 12 frames @25 iso and will be using ID-11 for the 8 minutes as suggested. Just finished the roll in the afternoon and loaded the film tonight so tomorrow will be the discovery day. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Dennis S]

Well I shot it at 26 and developed in ID-11 for 7 min @ 21C but nothing was there except for some strange results. The film is not colour as it was clear on top, bottom, and black in between so I also know it hasn't been destroyed by light. No edge markings at all along the length. I scanned it anyway to see what was there but nothing really. Next time a short roll at 6 & up for the next test. Was using my Olympus OM 4 T and the lowest on that camera was 26. My F1N goes to 6.

 

[Don_ih]

Now it looks like a direct positive film.

 

[NB23]

Ortholitho

 

[Don_ih]

Developed completely clear at the ends that were fully exposed to light....

I also just went and cut a piece from one of the spools I have. Precision Line Duplicating Film is what it's called. It makes direct positives but is very difficult to expose correctly. Brownish-orange back, pink and shiny emulsion, almost transparent. I never looked at it in daylight before. It can be handled under a safelight.

 

[NB23]

Interesting

 

[gorbas]

direct positive film

Then it needs to be developed with positive developer, like Dektol. For your next test Dennis, go even lower than 6 iso, just open one and two stops from it.

 

[Dennis S]

Then it needs to be developed with positive developer, like Dektol. For your next test Dennis, go even lower than 6 iso, just open one and two stops from it.

OK thanks. I have had very few responses, but this sounds the most promising. I shot a roll yesterday and started at 6 as this is the lowest I can go with my F1 N. I guess I cannot over develop the film using Dektol so probably 10 minutes should be enough. I need to find out what it is as I never throw away film unless I know it is completely ruined as it feels like there is plenty of film still left in the winder.

 

[gorbas]

Dennis, do more like 3-5min in print strength Dektol and start with 0iso. I did similar test for Kodak direct positive film many years ago, but I knew what it was. Maybe you can do Google search for instructions? To use this film you will need to carry tripod

 

[Don_ih]

I have mostly used this film to copy negatives to boost contrast and gain a bit of density. I've also used those negatives stacked for interesting (if pointless) effects. I have used it in-camera. I put a picture on instagram that I took using a 600 watt bulb....

Any film developer (other than lith developer) will give you continuous tone on graphic arts film. Dilute Dektol is typically used because graphic arts film can normally be handled under safelight - and people with safelights tend to be people with darkrooms that make prints.

 

[AgX]

For your next test Dennis, go even lower than 6 iso, just open one and two stops from it.

With direct-positive films even expect negative DIN-figures.