Unicolor Stabilzer sucks!

[gzhuang]

Which is the image? Is that the no go or the good? Not arguing, just not sure what I'm looking at. Also curious why anyone would use c41 b+w when developing at home. Is there an advantage over regular b+w film?

No go rescued with PS.

 

[gzhuang]

I don't doubt that you had a one succeed and one fail, what I do doubt is that the XP-2 was the reason.

First through same batch. XP2 maybe the problem.

 

[markbarendt]

First through same batch. XP2 maybe the problem.

So it sounds like you had the problem once. One problem doesn't indicate that there is a trend, it just indicates that there was a problem.

What I'm suggesting is that the odds are that the problem isn't the film.

 

[gzhuang]

So it sounds like you had the problem once. One problem doesn't indicate that there is a trend, it just indicates that there was a problem.

What I'm suggesting is that the odds are that the problem isn't the film.

XP2 came out weird looking like b&w negatives instead of the sepia look of c41 negatives. No problem at all with 400CN.

 

[pentaxuser]

XP2 came out weird looking like b&w negatives instead of the sepia look of c41 negatives. No problem at all with 400CN.

Here's the test: Did you try and print from the "weird" negs. That is the test. XP2+ doesn't have the brownish mask that 400CN has and yes to an extent the negs look similar to standard B&W but the prints from those negs are fine. It was designed to cater for B&W workers producing prints on analogue enlargers and on B&W paper

pentaxuser

 

[gzhuang]

Here's the test: Did you try and print from the "weird" negs. That is the test. XP2+ doesn't have the brownish mask that 400CN has and yes to an extent the negs look similar to standard B&W but the prints from those negs are fine. It was designed to cater for B&W workers producing prints on analogue enlargers and on B&W paper

pentaxuser

XP2 should have a dark sepia look.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

XP2 should have a dark sepia look.

Only if you print it on color paper in a machine that does not scan the negs to print them, and you don't know how to filter correctly. Then you get sepia tones, because the film base is slightly purple (the sepia is the opposite color of purple). That is a result of really poor technique on behalf of the printer, and not a characteristic of the film itself.

 

[Sirius Glass]

XP2 came out weird looking like b&w negatives instead of the sepia look of c41 negatives. No problem at all with 400CN.

It is supposed to be black & white. Sepia is obtained by distorting with Fauxo$hop.

 

[markbarendt]

XP2 came out weird looking like b&w negatives instead of the sepia look of c41 negatives. No problem at all with 400CN.

Yea, we identified the real concern! Woot!

There's nothing wrong with either film.

Having a clear base is the way XP2 negs are designed, they are supposed to look like normal B&W negs.

The "sepia look" of Kodak's 400c negatives is also perfectly normal.

XP2 uses a clear base so that it can be printed on normal B&W paper. XP2 requires the "flip-of-a-switch" (setting the process to B&W instead of color) to print nicely in most commercial systems.

Kodak's film uses the sepia base because color paper is what it was designed to print on. It prints as B&W on most commercial systems without needing to flip-the-switch, although flipping-the-switch can improve the look and remove color shifts. (It is tougher to print Kodak film on B&W paper.)

 

[Sirius Glass]

It is supposed to be black & white. Sepia is obtained by distorting with Fauxo$hop.

Yea, we identified the real concern! Woot!

There's nothing wrong with either film.

Having a clear base is the way XP2 negs are designed, they are supposed to look like normal B&W negs.

Problem solved

 

[pentaxuser]

Problem solved

Solved to whose satisfaction, I wonder? Not the OP's I suspect. He has a solution of course to what he feels is his dual problems. It is simply to avoid the use of Unicolor stabiliser and XP2+ film

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

Solved only as far as the XP2 acting exactly as it is supposed to. The stabilizer problem is still to be solved.

 

[madgardener]

Speaking only as someone who has processed c-41 only a few times with the Unicolor kits, the first kit I used, I had a problem with white spots and streaks. It took special emulsion cleaner to get rid of it. The second time I mixed it with distilled water and still got some white spots/streaks but they didn't show up in the scans. The third and fourth times I mixed with deionized water and added a tiny bit of Freestyle's version of photo-flo and they came out clean and clear. I haven't done anything since, though I am thinking the next time I use a Unicolor kit I will follow the directions posted here on APUG to make a separate bleach and fixer. But that's another thread...

 

[markbarendt]

Speaking only as someone who has processed c-41 only a few times with the Unicolor kits, the first kit I used, I had a problem with white spots and streaks. It took special emulsion cleaner to get rid of it. The second time I mixed it with distilled water and still got some white spots/streaks but they didn't show up in the scans. The third and fourth times I mixed with deionized water and added a tiny bit of Freestyle's version of photo-flo and they came out clean and clear. I haven't done anything since, though I am thinking the next time I use a Unicolor kit I will follow the directions posted here on APUG to make a separate bleach and fixer. But that's another thread...

The more I hear about the unicolor kit the more I think that most of the problems are simply caused by certain parts of the powder not quite dissolving fully.

That could be caused by things like water that was a little cooler than the chemicals "like" to be used at: say room temp instead of 100f. Warming the water, at least to mix, is an easy fix.

The other thing that I'd try if I was having these issues is filtering each chemical before each use with say a coffee filter to eliminate any undissolved stuff.

Third thing I'd do, is use damp sponges to dry the films after the final rinse.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The more I hear about the unicolor kit the more I think that most of the problems are simply caused by certain parts of the powder not quite dissolving fully.

That could be caused by things like water that was a little cooler than the chemicals "like" to be used at: say room temp instead of 100f. Warming the water, at least to mix, is an easy fix.

The other thing that I'd try if I was having these issues is filtering each chemical before each use with say a coffee filter to eliminate any undissolved stuff.

Third thing I'd do, is use damp sponges to dry the films after the final rinse.

I have always mixed the Unicolor kit with very warm water and I have never had any of the problems stated above.The front side of the instructions on the bottom right state:

MIXING NOTES
Use water well above the temperature you want to use to develop your film. ...

One should RTFM before slamming a product on the internet!

 

[trythis]

Speaking only as someone who has processed c-41 only a few times with the Unicolor kits, .......edit.......I haven't done anything since, though I am thinking the next time I use a Unicolor kit I will follow the directions posted here on APUG to make a separate bleach and fixer. But that's another thread...

I looked into this but the cost of using the proper bromide with unicolor blix A is very high over using the rollei liquid mix. The chemicals required are different enough and expensive enough that it may be better just to order a complete rollei digibase kit (bleach and fix )from Germany even with the $25 shipping.

Just wish someone would sell a bleach + fix kit in powder form.
As you said, another thread.


Sent with typotalk

 

[bvy]

Just don't understand why more people aren't buying the Kodak chemicals individually. Enough developer, and cheap enough, that you don't have to plow dozens of rolls through the same liter, separate bleach and fix, etc.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Just don't understand why more people aren't buying the Kodak chemicals individually. Enough developer, and cheap enough, that you don't have to plow dozens of rolls through the same liter, separate bleach and fix, etc.

Good point. Convenience. When I go to FreeStyle I just reach for a box or two of the Unicolor 1 liter kit.

 

[trythis]

Just don't understand why more people aren't buying the Kodak chemicals individually. Enough developer, and cheap enough, that you don't have to plow dozens of rolls through the same liter, separate bleach and fix, etc.

I have not found a place to buy small quantities and its confusing with starters and replinishers. I cant imagine asking my wife where I can put several 5 gallon containers of photo chems.

Id rather buy dry and mix for a 4 or 5 rolls at a time.


Sent with typotalk

 

[madgardener]

Just don't understand why more people aren't buying the Kodak chemicals individually. Enough developer, and cheap enough, that you don't have to plow dozens of rolls through the same liter, separate bleach and fix, etc.

It's confusing trying to sort out all the different components, replentisher, etc. It's far simpler to have a kit with everything I need that comes in one box. That way I have a known amount and don't have to worry about what to mix where. Simply mix A with B and C, etc.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Just don't understand why more people aren't buying the Kodak chemicals individually. Enough developer, and cheap enough, that you don't have to plow dozens of rolls through the same liter, separate bleach and fix, etc.

Good point. Convenience. When I go to FreeStyle I just reach for a box or two of the Unicolor 1 liter kit.

I have not found a place to buy small quantities and its confusing with starters and replinishers. I cant imagine asking my wife where I can put several 5 gallon containers of photo chems.

Id rather buy dry and mix for a 4 or 5 rolls at a time.

It's confusing trying to sort out all the different components, replentisher, etc. It's far simpler to have a kit with everything I need that comes in one box. That way I have a known amount and don't have to worry about what to mix where. Simply mix A with B and C, etc.

Well that pretty much sums it up.

 

[bvy]

It's a trade off, I suppose. Convenience isn't so convenient if it's getting harder to source, and you have or feel the need to supplement with other chemicals. As for the Kodak chemicals, there's really nothing confusing about them. Mix A+B+C with water, there's your base developer. Add starter and water, there's your working solution. I understand it's probably more solution than most people want to deal with. I develop C-41 one shot, so it goes fast.

 

[trythis]

It's a trade off, I suppose. Convenience isn't so convenient if it's getting harder to source, and you have or feel the need to supplement with other chemicals. As for the Kodak chemicals, there's really nothing confusing about them. Mix A+B+C with water, there's your base developer. Add starter and water, there's your working solution. I understand it's probably more solution than most people want to deal with. I develop C-41 one shot, so it goes fast.

Maybe you could do a writeup that describes this process for us. It would be helpful to have exact chemical lists and even sources to buy from. Its all dry chems? Who sells this stuff and in what quantity?


Why is starter after developer? <-example of how I am perplexed by this stuff. These chemicals are listed by stores but the only way to know what you are buying is to read the instructions that comes with your minilab machine...which we dont have.


Sent with typotalk

 

[Wayne]

I agree, the mental effort required for me to learn the Kodak Way has kept me buying Unicolor kits. A quick tutorial from purchase to final rinse would help.

 

[bvy]

Unique Photo in New Jersey sells and ships all the chemicals (liquids). I'll happily put a write up together. Give me a little bit of time...