Unicolor C41

[Marvin]

Freestyle lists 1 and 2 liter C41 Unicolor kits, my question is can the 2 liter be mixed as two one liter batches or do you have to mix the whole 2w liters at once. The two liter is not that much more expensive, but I think that it would go bad before I used it up, if I had to mix the whole 2 liters.

 

[RPC]

How long would you take you to use up 2 liters? I don't know about Unicolor, but I have had Kodak C-41 chemistry last more than three years after mixing without degradation by storing it in glass bottles filled to the top and sealed tightly, preventing oxidation.

 

[bvy]

I've used C-41 working solution developer one year after mixing it -- stored in an airtight bottle. It may well have kept longer. I'd be more concerned about the component chemicals keeping that long.

 

[Wayne]

Its a powder kit so just ask Freestyle. If its intended as a 2 liter kit as opposed to a 2 1 liter kits then you can't mix just 1 liter.

 

[TenSpeed]

i just buy two 1 liter kits and save the second one in the fridge

 

[pbromaghin]

PE strongly advises mixing powder developers in full batches only - no partial bags. He says the different component particles are of different sizes and density and so partial mixes will give inconsistent results.

 

[Jon Buffington]

This is how I buy it. Mix it up, put 1 liter back in dark, air tight container and the other liter as my working solution.

 

[Wayne]

Why even mix the second one?

i just buy two 1 liter kits and save the second one in the fridge

 

[mklw1954]

I use Unicolor. As others have said, it's not good to mix half the powder as you might not get exactly half of all the ingredients when you separate the powders. I have found Unicolor's recommendation to use the kit within a few days or so to be good advice. My understanding is that the blix degrades. I see others have stored the chemicals much longer so you can get the 2-liter kit, mix the 2-liters, separate it into two 1-liter sets and see if the stored set is effective in time. I save up 15-20 rolls and develop them all within a few days with the 1-liter kit and get excellent results.

On cost, developing 15 rolls with the 1-liter kit (just recently $21.99 at Freestyle) amounts to $1.47 per roll. 30 rolls with the 2-liter kit ($33.99) amounts to $1.13 per roll. To me, $0.34 per roll more using the l-liter kit is minor and $1.47 per roll is a good value. Of course, if you have 30 rolls to develop, use the 2-liter kit.

 

[RPC]

My understanding is that the blix degrades.

A film blix does degrade rapidly, so using one may not be very cost effective unless it is used up in a timely fashion. This is why, among other reasons, a separate bleach and fixer is desirable. Keeping time is months or even years longer. Following the advice of the how-to thread "Converting C-41/E-6 BLIX into Separate Bleach and Fixer" at (there was a url link here which no longer exists) is highly recommended, or simply purchasing a kit with separate bleach and fixer.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have used the one liter Unicolor kit. I mix it when I have 12 to 16 equivalent rolls of film and then I process it all in two or three days. I heard that the chemistry only lasts two weeks, but I have never held it past three days because I had already processed the maximum number of rolls. Ask FreeStyle, I have found everyone there very personally knowledgeable and very honest.

Mix the complete batches. Do not play games mixing partial batches since that just generates problems and endless "What did I do wrong" threads.

 

[fotch]

Start off with the 1L kit until you shoot enough to make it pay to get the 2L kit.

 

[Sceptic]

I bought the 2L kit. I didn't have enough bottle, so I brought out my scale and precisely measured half of the contents, mixed and developed. Looked fine to me. Finally it was time to mix a new batch, and I just used the second half. No problems

 

[Wayne]

nevertheless, its a bad idea and false economy if there ARE problems. You can't know if the powders are perfectly and evenly mixed.

I bought the 2L kit. I didn't have enough bottle, so I brought out my scale and precisely measured half of the contents, mixed and developed. Looked fine to me. Finally it was time to mix a new batch, and I just used the second half. No problems

 

[Sirius Glass]

nevertheless, its a bad idea and false economy if there ARE problems. You can't know if the powders are perfectly and evenly mixed.

+1

I agree. False economy at a risk, better that one should buy more bottles than run into problems that PE will have to explain how to straighten out.

 

[pbromaghin]

nevertheless, its a bad idea and false economy if there ARE problems. You can't know if the powders are perfectly and evenly mixed.

Right. Basically, PE's point is it will work until it doesn't, and then you're screwed.

 

[MattKing]

Right. Basically, PE's point is it will work until it doesn't, and then you're screwed.

Actually, I think the point is that, as it is virtually impossible to assure homogeneity, the different parts will perform at least slightly differently, resulting in an unnecessary additional level of inconsistency and uncertainty.

 

[pbromaghin]

Actually, I think the point is that, as it is virtually impossible to assure homogeneity, the different parts will perform at least slightly differently, resulting in an unnecessary additional level of inconsistency and uncertainty.

Yes, yours is the more accurate statement. It's nice to know smart people.

 

[Marvin]

Looks like for me the 1L would be the best. I have 8 35mm rolls and one 120 waiting for processing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I only use the one liter Unicolor kits.

 

[Marvin]

Just received the 1L Unicolor kit from Freestyle, so guess I will get caught up on my C41 backlog. Any tips about using this kit would be appreciated. I also got Fixer and D76 for my B&W stuff. I now have the Patterson 2 reel tank, and my old ss 2 reel tank so I could have 4 rolls at a time for processing.

 

[bvy]

That sounds like a lot to juggle. C41 keeps me busy from start to finish -- and my process is pretty streamlined.

 

[Marvin]

Would not be trying to do them at the same time. Just having two ready to go.

 

[Jeff L]

I personally get more consistent results by adding a stop bath after the developer.
I had some streaking once in a while before adding the stop bath step. Thanks to P.E. for the advise.

 

[mklw1954]

I've used Unicolor for about 4 years now. Some tips:
- Take their advice seriously on using the chemicals within several days of mixing them; doing this, saving up rolls to be processed, I've done 15-19 rolls with a 1-liter kit, adding 30 seconds developer and blix time for rolls 16-19. This provides more consistent results, which is important if you will be making RA4 prints as having to find new color filtration and exposure time settings due to negative variability is extremely time consuming (may be less important if scanning). Filter each chemical, using a funnel and coffee filters, between each developing cycle.
- Since you will lose some blix via leakage from the tank during agitations, develop in your larger tanks first (e.g., 2-120 rolls or 3 or 4-135 rolls).
- Add 1/2 teaspoon of PhotoFlo concentrate to 1 liter of the stabilizer, repeat every 8 rolls processed; this will prevent water drying marks.
- Spend $20 and get a box of nitrile gloves and a pair lab goggles and have some ventilation during developing (simple and inexpensive safety precautions)