Unicolor C-41, white speck on Portra shiny side

[alex2293]

Hi guys,

I'm developing a few 35mm Portra 400 rolls using Unicolor C-41 kit.

I mixed it this afternoon using only distilled water and mmixing the chemicals at 110F following the instruction. I processed 2 rolls an hour later and now I'm scanning them.

I still have some white specks on the shiny side. They are like salt grains, but smaller, I can remove them rubbing gently my nail and it leaves nothing. Last time, using another C-41 chemicals batch, I thought it was caused by the tap water used to mix the chemicals.

ICE digital can remove most of them, but still it bothers me. It looks like the stabilizer crystals. Could some of them be undissolved?

Is it a really bad idea to squegee or run a wet sponge on this side only, I've never done this with B&W.

Thanks a lot,

I'll try to post a picture of the negative.

Alex.

 

[sfaber17]

People have reported problems like that in the past from the stabilizer. You should use distilled water for the stab. bath. I don't think it is bad to use a wet soft cloth of distilled water over the shiny side.

 

[canvassy]

You can try to filter it out of the stab by using a coffee filter. I have done that in the past with decent results. I will also sometimes run the side of a wet finger down the shiny side of the film and it takes most of those off.

 

[bvy]

Or you can ditch the stabilizer entirely and invest in a small bottle of Kodak Final Rinse. It's idiot proof and will cost you less than just about anything at Starbucks. I had the same problem with the kit stabilizer in spite of following the instructions to a tee (distilled water and all).

 

[mshchem]

All of these "Press Kits " no matter who's name is on them come from the same supplier. I second bvy's suggestion. I don't use this stuff anymore I went back to using Kodak.
One thing that you could do is just use photo flo in deionized water for your final step. You can still use your Unicolor stabilizer if you wish, just finish with a liquid wetting agent in pure water. You are seeing exactly what I've seen, the stabilizer is recrystallizing on your film as the water evaporates.
Best Regards Mike

 

[Chrismat]

I've had this problem with 35mm film, but not 120, which is a mystery. Then I read that adding a about 3-4ml of photo-flo to the stabilizer will take care of it. I tried it and it works.

 

[MattKing]

One thing that you could do is just use photo flo in deionized water for your final step.

This won't give you the long term stabilization and protection from bacteria that the stabilizer gives you.

 

[mshchem]

This won't give you the long term stabilization and protection from bacteria that the stabilizer gives you.

No argument on this point. If you are concerned about quality I would recommend the Kodak Flexicolor process start to finish. I do as you say Flexicolor final rinse.
I don't like using minilabs that use the washless Flexicolor stabilizer route. I'm old fashioned in that I like to wash my films then use the final rinse. I believe that there is a biocide in the Final rinse along with a surfactant. I would defer to Photo Engineer as to what is better washing and using the final rinse or running through 3 bathes of stabilizer.
Best Regards Mike

 

[Zach-MLT-MD]

I know the instructions dont say to but I run my film through the stabilizer as per the instructions (using the unicolor kit) and then: I use some distilled water and 1 drop of dishsoap as a final rinse just like i do with my BW films - let it sit in there a minute and squeegee with a sponge. I know this is an extra step above the instructions but i hasnt hurt my negatives yet and keeps them from getting any waterspots or other stuff one them.

 

[MattKing]

A rinse of any type after the stabilizer will defeat the anti-bacterial protection that stabilizer or final rinse gives to the film.
Unlike black and white film, developed colour negative film has no silver or any other bactericide in it. Stabilizer or final rinse add that bactericide. If you rinse it away, your films will be a target for bacterial damage.

 

[Zach-MLT-MD]

I had no idea that was even a thing bacteria eating the film - interesting - I guess ive learned something new today.

 

[Zach-MLT-MD]

would doing a rinse / soap after the blix step - followed by the stab yield similar results while still getting the antibacterial effect?

 

[mnemosyne]

The C41 stabilizer normally contains a surfactant so I do not see what improvement an additional bath with a different surfactant (dish soap) prior to the stabilizer bath would help.
If you people have problems with stabilizer solution leaving marks on the film then you should (a) investigate the quality of your water and use demin water for diluting the stabilizer concentrate AND/OR (b) fine tune the dilution of the stab. If all does not help try a different brand of stabilizer. I am using the Fuji Hunt Press Kit and the included stab (diluted with demin water according to instructions) gives zero problems/marks/residue when letting the film dry slowly in cool to medium (not too warm) temperatures and normal humidity.

Main ingredient of the light sensitive coating on the film base is gelatine, which is an organic material which makes it susceptible to decomposition through organisms like bacteria or fungi. It is less of an issue in black and white film, where the gelatine contains embedded silver, which is a powerful bactericide, but it is an issue with CN film, where all silver is removed from the film during processing.

 

[bvy]

Kodak Final Rinse and forget it.