Unfinished roll with film leader exposed

[nufe]

Hello,

I'm curious of how one can advance a partially used roll of film provided the film leader is not fully rewound.

My SLR (F6) allows me to leave the film leader out instead of completely rewinding the film into the canister. I took the time to set this in the menu options before loading my first roll of film. After the 24 exp, the camera auto rewound the film. I assume this happened due to me not setting the camera from 24 exp to 36 exp. After the 24 exp, the camera auto rewound the file, but left the film leader out.

If I "re-load" the film, how can I advance past the already-exposed frames to the 25 ~ 36 unused frames?

I checked the manual, but didn't clearly see any discussion of this.

Thank you for any consideration and feedback.

~Jeff

 

[Alexander Ghaffari]

With my camera, I reload and just shoot with the cap on and skip the last frame I was on to prevent an overlapped frame.

Works every time.

So if you were on frame 24 when you rewound, I would reload, put the cap on, and shoot until frame 25.

 

[Chris Nielsen]

On my F5 I stick it in manual mode, set f/22 and 1/8000 then put it on continuous high and crank away. I leave an extra frame to avoid any possibility of overlapping frames, then off you go

 

[Thanasis]

On my F5 I stick it in manual mode, set f/22 and 1/8000 then put it on continuous high and crank away. I leave an extra frame to avoid any possibility of overlapping frames, then off you go

I assume that you keep the lens cap on anyway though?

 

[Chris Nielsen]

Nope. No need to with f/22 and 1/8000 !!

 

[SilverGlow]

Don't advance the film! Go for the double exposure effect! ;-)

 

[Thanasis]

Nope. No need to with f/22 and 1/8000 !!

That depends on what you are pointing the camera at. They're your exposures and you may like them with a bit of extra post-exposure flashing. Personally, i advance the film with the lens cap on.

 

[Chris Nielsen]

That depends on what you are pointing the camera at. They're your exposures and you may like them with a bit of extra post-exposure flashing. Personally, i advance the film with the lens cap on.

According to the Ultimate Exposure Computer, if I read it right, f/22 and 1/8000 at ISO 100 is a full 6 stops brighter than a very bright day at the beach, so you'd have to be pointing at something very very bright for it to stuff your film up.. I suppose if you were using a fast film it might be an issue, so in that circumstance you would be wise to use a lens cap, but I have never noticed any issues when I've done it... But if you think it's a good idea, by all means go for it!

 

[Lee L]

I advance with the lens cap on and go two frames past the last one. Belt and suspenders.

Lee

 

[Thanasis]

According to the Ultimate Exposure Computer, if I read it right, f/22 and 1/8000 at ISO 100 is a full 6 stops brighter than a very bright day at the beach, so you'd have to be pointing at something very very bright for it to stuff your film up.. I suppose if you were using a fast film it might be an issue, so in that circumstance you would be wise to use a lens cap, but I have never noticed any issues when I've done it... But if you think it's a good idea, by all means go for it!

I live in Sydney, Australia. A very bright day at the beach represents about 6 or 7 months of the year for me.

 

[Chris Nielsen]

I live in Sydney, Australia. A very bright day at the beach represents about 6 or 7 months of the year for me.

Righto.. I live in NZ, it rains here most of the year

 

[nufe]

Thank you all. I appreciate feedback!

 

[djacobox372]

That depends on what you are pointing the camera at. They're your exposures and you may like them with a bit of extra post-exposure flashing. Personally, i advance the film with the lens cap on.

You'd have to be aiming at the sun with 3200 iso film to have any fogging with f/32 at 1/8000. :-0

 

[pentaxuser]

You'd have to be aiming at the sun with 3200 iso film to have any fogging with f/32 at 1/8000. :-0

Mmm I wonder about this. I went to the Isle of Man in August and it wasn't particularly sunny and it is latitude 54+ but with D3200 set at 1600 I saw some pretty high speeds even at f11.

Maybe I am too conservative but with D3200 especially if set at 3200 I'd be worried about fogging even at f32 without the cap on.

If you do add light to already exposed negs and there are important negs then I'd play it conservatively and not take the chance.

pentaxuser

 

[2F/2F]

I used do this fairly often to switch films before I got another body. You just reload, stop all the way down, cover the lens with a cap or an article of clothing, and shoot. I would shoot two extra frames past the last one I exposed to be cautious.

 

[SilverGlow]

I hear you 2F/2F....film bodies are cheap these days, so instead of doing the exchange film dance with one camera and having to manage the frame one left off, I'd suggest to anyone to just get a 2nd body and put a different ISO or type of film in that. A 2nd body can be great too for those of use that are prime only shooters....two bodies, two different focal length primes...

 

[Polybun]

Who cares if the leader is retracted? You don't make a film leader retriever tool part of your kit??

 

[Thanasis]

Who cares if the leader is retracted? You don't make a film leader retriever tool part of your kit??

No. I have a Nikon F5 and Leica M6 so i am able to manually retract all the film back into the cannister except for the leader.
Cheers.
T.

 

[BetterSense]

Where can you get one of them there fancy film leader retriever thangs? This partial-rolls thing is interesting me. Just today I had a roll in with 5 frames and I wanted to change my fastest camera to iso 800, but didn't want to waste nineteen frames.