Uneven Development-Pyrocat-HD + Drums

[wilsonneal]

Hello
I had been using HP5 and D76 1:1 with 8x10 sheet and getting good results. I wanted to switch recently to Pyrocat-HD for the staining benefits useful in Alternative printing. At the same time I switched film to TMY, because I'd read that it was a better film in Pyrocat.

I continued to use an 11x14 Beseler drum on a Beseler roller. 2 minutes presoak. Water Stop. TF4 fix. My experiences previously with the Beseler were mixed. The 8x10 drum left me extra edge density, so I moved to 11x14. This helped a bit, but I could wind up with extra density if I didn't switch the drum end to end every minute.

I've contact printed my first attempts and I am both encouraged and frustrated.

The tonality is really beautiful. Skin tones are really lovely, and the images look completely different than HP5 in D76. They really come alive.

Here's the frustration. I've got areas of uneven development, and evidence of the ribs of the drum on the negs. The ghost of the ribs shows up as extra density (not anti-halation) in the neg in a stripe the same shape/size as the ribs on the drum. I tried extra fixing and extra washing in hopes that it was anti-halation dye, and it's not. It's real density. I've also got several dime-size areas of extra density that show up as weird light spots on the prints. Out of the a dozen negs, these lighter spots show up on 3. They are irregularly shaped, in the middle of the neg, so they're not leaky film holders.

I am just about convinced I need to go to the Jobo 3005 drum.

Question on that JOBO drum: Do you fill and dump chemistry through that little hole? Do you use a funnel?

Any thoughts on why the ribs of the Beseler drum are causing this issue? Really want to resolve this, because the images were otherwise very satisfying.

Thanks
Neal

 

[noseoil]

Neal, don't know with the mordern mechanical marvel drums. I use tube development and minimal agitation (1:00 gentle rolling of tube, then 10 seconds every three minutes with completely submerged film, tube just sits on end most of the time) for excellent results. You might get one of J&C's tubes and see how you like minimal agitation. tim

 

[craigclu]

While you're experimenting, try your HP5+ in the PyroCat. It seems to be an ideal combo and makes for very easy printing for most subjects.

 

[lee]

I use pyrocat in a Beseler drum and on a motor base. I use a pre soak of 5 min my motor base also reverses itself. My negs are not showing the problems you are having. I also use sodium carbonate (instead of Pot carbonate) for part B and I use the ratio of 2+10+100. Before I spent the money for an expert drum I would run a few more tests. Good luck.

lee\c

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Before you go the Jobo route consider the volume you are using.
It is recommended that 75mL per sheet of 4x5 is enough but I've found more like 100mL per sheet in my Jobo is required and I have not experienced inconsistency.

 

[wilsonneal]

Using 250ml per 8x10 sheet.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Using 250ml per 8x10 sheet.

Well, based on Sandy's recommendation of 75mL per 4x5, wouldn't 300mL be in keeping with 8X10? I would suggest increasing the volume to a minimum of 300mL.

 

[wilsonneal]

Well, based on Sandy's recommendation of 75mL per 4x5, wouldn't 300mL be in keeping with 8X10? I would suggest increasing the volume to a minimum of 300mL.

Thanks for that observation. That would make perfect sense (and this is why I didn't take too many math courses). Never occurred to me. Okay, but that wouldn't explain the extra density that corresponds to the ribs in the Beseler tubes. It might explain thin negs from exhausted developer.
N