Underwater camera recommendation, Nikonos, others?

Sirius Glass

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We are finalizing our itinerary to Australia and New Zeland for November this year. We will be in Cairns and will snorkel or introductory dive at the Great Barrier Reef, so which underwater camera for a one time use to get? We have two disposables but should I get a Nikonos and which lens? Other film camera? Underwater digital? I am open to ideas.
 

ic-racer

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Underwater film photography is extremely challenging due to low light levels. Depending on how deep you will be, the Nikonos is a little limited without the matching underwater flash. Now we are talking vintage flash, water, batteries, water, questionable capacitors, water, o-rings, water, electrical connections to the camera, water, etc. I own a Nikonos V and would encourage you to get one too, everyone that likes film should have a chance to use one at some time. But, in terms of immediate results, going out and buying a Nikonos to get some 'good underwater photography' is akin to going out and buying an enlarger to make some museum quality prints.

(You know the story of the complexity involved to make this one, yes?)

 

BAC1967

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If you want to go medium format you could go with the Siluro Nemrod. Don't forget to bring a bicycle pump to pressurize it before you take it under water. This one originally came with an underwater flash so you'll also need to stock up on some flash bulbs.

Siluro Nemrod
by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

I think you will be disappointed with the results you get from the disposable underwater cameras.
 

ic-racer

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Since I have Nikonos your thread caused me to seek the solution to "does anyone make a contemporary NEW underwater flash for the Nikonos."
I found the answer. http://www.inon.jp makes NEW underwater speedlights that work with Nikonos film cameras! You might want to check it out too.
 

Paul Howell

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You ought be able to find a housing for a F100. On the cheap if your not going to dive too deep, Minolta Weathermatic, with built in 35 and 80mm lens, small flash as well. AF and auto advance, I dont recall how deep you can take, maybe 30 or so feet.

 

mjork

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For snorkeling, the Nikonos works well without a flash. And in sunshine, even 100 ISO film will do. I have no experience with diving.
There is a seller on eBay (narcosis101) that specialized in Nikonos and sells them pressure-tested, serviced and ready to go.
 

Mr Bill

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We will be in Cairns and will snorkel or introductory dive at the Great Barrier Reef, so which underwater camera for a one time use to get?

My first question would be, are you already a diver? Or a competent snorkel user? If not, a camera may sort of overload your capabilities.

I'm not up on "current" UW film cameras. I bought a Nikonos II way back when they were still the latest, but I don't think I'd let it go underwater anymore. I would also be inclined to look for a Nikonos V, keeping in mind that they could be as old as 35 years (made from 1984 thru 2001, per Wikipedia). It would be nice if you could find a later model, or if the seller would give you a waterproof guarantee.

Once you start doing this, you realize that all of the really colorful shots use a flash, which pretty much needs to be away from the camera. I'm speaking of diving depth, beyond 20 feet or so. The water filters out reddish colors first, and the "water distance" adds, including from you this the subject.

Best of luck on your trip.
 
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mgb74

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KISS applies unless you're an experienced diver. I found it difficult to snorkel past 15 ft and still stop and stay still to take photos. So you'll probably be shallow enough to use available light with fast film.

I'd go with a digital first, then a tested Nikonos V or IV, then a P&S.

It was many years ago, but the holiday inn in Cairns was great. Not what youdy expect from a holiday inn in the US.
 

Theo Sulphate

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If you choose a Nikonos, the seals need to be in good condition to prevent water leaks. The best model, in my opinion, is the V because you can choose your shutter speed or use it in auto mode (the meter is TTL); shutter speeds are displayed in the viewfinder. It is a very solid and tight camera - there is no slop anywhere!

One of the best lenses is the 35/2.5 W Nikkor, which can be used both on land and under water. I think it's the highest resolution 35mm I've ever used.

I have the V and its corresponding flash unit - they both work wonderfully.




Since it seems you've eliminated digital, I won't mention the Olympus Tough TG series, such as TG-4, TG-5, has received excellent reviews.
 
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I used a IVa for many years. Still have mine. But he better shots require a strobe. Of course that's with SCUBA. If you're snorkeling, you ought to get a few nice keepers and have fun without a strobe. Keep it simple. Complications won;t work when you're first starting out. I'd use a 200 or 400 ISO film. Stick with th 35mm. It's the only one that works above and below water.
https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort...ch=1&tags=iva&user_id=55760757@N05&view_all=1
 

trendland

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Paul - I am not sure if Serious Glass would feel fine with!....???

with regards

PS : But to me it would be OK - last year I bought a cheap Rollei Cam for underwater shots!
 

trendland

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I can't say if a Nikonos is a good investment - but it could be (price could increase much)!
Why not to use your Hassi ? Is there a motor driven Hassi exept the NASA version out ?


Guess you want to shot 120 film - there are many other motor driven cameras from other brands
you perhaps still own ?

During the past there was a company managing all kind of underwater support for film cameras!
I just googled if this people are still in business today?
Yes they are allive :


So there might be no need for a real "underwater cam"? If you are not " D I V I N G "!

with regards
 

jim10219

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The problem with any vintage underwater camera, as I recently found out, is the O-rings wear out. There are users serviceable O-rings, and there are O-rings deep inside the camera that require a pretty heavy disassembly to get to. Now, since these cameras are no longer made, finding the right replacement O-rings can be challenging, if not impossible. Add to that the fact that these cameras have likely spent a good bit of time in salt water, which is extremely corrosive, and you've got a recipe for a money pit that only leads to disaster. On top of all of that, using one is no easy task. The light changes with each meter you dive. The waves are pushing your around. It's hard to see out of your mask. Everything is moving around you, and you have to be ultra aware of your surroundings at all times, which makes operating a hard to use camera in your hands even more difficult.

So in all honesty, I would recommend a digital camera. Barring that, I'd recommend an underwater housing for a camera you're already familiar with (but one that's not too precious to you, because even under the best of circumstances, these things can spring a leak and flood your camera). Autofocus is really, really handy. Almost mandatory.

I recently went snorkeling in Hawaii and took two Sea and Sea Motormarine II cameras with me. Before I left, I replaced all of the old O-rings on one, and the other one looked to be in pretty good shape, so I left it as is, and used it as a backup. They were both watertight in my bathtub. I also brought an external flash to use with them, which I also replaced the O-rings on. Unfortunately, I couldn't find exact replacements for all of the O-rings anywhere online, so for a couple, I bought O-rings that with slightly larger diameters (in thickness, not in length) than the originals, thinking they'd compress to fit and work, if provide some extra resistance to knobs and such (this is what was recommended to me online). It didn't work. In my bathtub, they were fine. In the ocean with waves thrashing me about, both cameras flooded before I finished the first roll of film. The flash, however, held together and never gave me issues. Both cameras were destroyed by the corrosive effects of salt water, and so I threw the entire kit away into the hotel room's trash. It was disappointing, but at least I didn't spend Nikonos V money on them only to have the same results.

With a housing, you can see if it's starting to flood. That buys you enough time to maybe surface and save the camera. Also, you might be able to more easily find exact replacements for the O-rings. And, an autofocus, autoexposure camera not only makes things easier, it makes things much safer. I was constantly dodging rocks (cause that's where the fish and sea turtles where), other snorkelers, having to keep my head on a swivel, all while trying to zone focus on animals moving one direction, while I was moving the next. I developed two half rolls from that trip. I got zero good shots, and only a handful of shots with a useable exposure where the subjects were modestly in focus. Next time, I'm renting a digital camera. This is one of those areas where digital is hands down the better choice in every conceivable way. I wanted film to work. But it's just not a good idea. And a good digital setup is very, very expensive. So unless you're wanting to make a living off this, I'd also recommend renting, or buying a cheap, water-safe P&S. A Nikonos would still be a good camera for shooting in the rain or under the surface of streams, in swimming pools, and such. But I can't recommend one in today's world for snorkeling or diving.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Sea & Sea made a variety of underwater cameras - I have one that took some really good pictures for me, the MotorMarine MX-10. Best results are to get your subject at about arms' length away from you and set the focus to 1 meter. They have an accessory flash for it, the YS-40. It's a potato-masher type flash, with an available off-camera ttl cord accessory that uses fiber-optics to control the flash. My recommendation is to load it with a good 400 speed print film, like Portra 400 (back in the day I used Fuji Press film).
 

TheRook

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Yes, the Minolta Weathermatic gets the job done - that's the camera I use for underwater photography. And it floats too!
 

Paul Howell

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Just found the manual for my Weathermatic, only good to 5 meters, so not so good anything deeper. I think the Sea and Sea are good for much deeper. I used my Weathermatic for wet weather, but have switched to a Pentax WR IQ with a zoom.
 

Ces1um

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I'm sure you know this already, but it bears saying that whatever camera you choose you would want one that can accept a pink/red/purple filter when photographing underwater. If the camera itself is exposed to seawater then you really need to flood the space between the lens and the filter with seawater or you'll get some fairly ugly distortions- you don't want airbubbles in this space. If you have a housing over the camera, see if you can get a filter that will push on the housing above the lens. These filters really make the underwater colours pop and you'll be a lot happier with your photos. I also find it's better to get as close as possible to whatever you're taking a photo of. A flash isn't going to travel large distances very well underwater.
I've tried a lomo lc-a+ with the krab housing and 1600 iso film with good results. The downside is you have to zone focus and the zone can't be changed while in the housing. I've also used a gopro hero 7 black with the supershell and a pink filter for snorkeling with better results than film, but the photo does lose some of it's charm and character. Maybe more than you'd want to pay out for a one time use camera though. Oh- if you do use a gopro, shoot it in raw for sure. I got good results with their "superphoto" mode but I also got quite a few bad shots because of the in camera processing. I wouldn't use superphoto mode underwater or in any lower light conditions. The noise is horrible.
 

DREW WILEY

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I just returned from our annual week of snorkeling, this time at Maui again. Sadly, I just couldn't justify the cost of a real film Nikonos for that kind of casual fun usage, so I bought my wife a Nikon digital underwater camera which has proven convenient and reliable. If this were a serious activity, I'd look for the rare underwater housing for my Pentax 6x7 system. But after purchasing something like that and getting it all fixed with new gasketing, I'd have to skip a few vacations just to pay for the gear upgrade itself !
 

Agulliver

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I've tried underwater photography a few ways....some involving that horrible word "digital".

Here are simply my experiences.

You're going to need a film camera with motor wind.

15 years ago I bought a 1970s EWA Marine housing for larger super 8 cine cameras. I've had some success using this with my Elmo Super 110 but I couldn't really see in the viewfinder. And light levels under water are typically several stops lower than above the water - not great when dealing with ISO 40 or ISO 64 film as I was at the time. I actually ended up using this housing with a Canon HG10 camcorder for both video and stills photography and that 70s housing still works perfectly. So if you have any sort of camera that can fit in an EWA Marine housing which has been well cared for, I'd say try it. They made housings for still cameras too or some of the large cine camera housings could potentially be used with a still camera.

Later I bought a "Vivitar Cruise Cam" from an auction. This is, in reality, a very simple plastic point and shoot motor wind 35mm camera with a separate water proof housing. Fixed lens, fixed focus, click and go....doesn't even have an exposure system. But it does work, and it has flash which can be turned on and off while in the housing....good for a whopping three to four metres I think.... It does the job with 400ISO and 800ISO film under water and can be used on dry land without the housing - where it works better with 200-400ISO film. It's far from perfect but it does achieve cheap film photography under water. Motor wind is so strong that bulk loaded films can be ripped from the cassette spool unles gaffer tape is used! The lens is reasonably sharp across the frame, it does the job as a snapshot camera above and under water.

Here comes the digital guff....I ended up buying a £2.50 under water baggy for digital cameras on that famous auction site. It fits my seldom used Samsung compact digital camera which I can just about control within the housing and I can see the screen when wearing goggles or a mask (I often free dive sans goggles). It actually works really well and has given that unloved camera a new lease of life. Theoretically I could put a compact 35mm motor wind camera in that same case....if I had a 35mm compact motor wind camera! It would not be possible to wind on film in a manual camera. These bags are to be had all over the place...they come in a variety of colours with a protruding tubular area for the camera lens. Actually I'm just remembering my wife has a Konica 35mm zoom compact which she hasn't used in around 12 years....hmm....it might fit!

If you want to use something larger like a 35mm SLR or medium format....I'd say if money is no object then Sea&Sea make great cases. Or find a suitable second hand or NOS EWA Marine. EWA Marine are still around and have instructions for vintage gear on their website.

Final advice, unless you're only snorkelling close to the surface in very sunny conditions....use ISO 800 or above if you can. Which pretty much means Fuji Superia or Lomography 800 film unless you shoot B&W.....which I have done under water but colour is better. Colours will render better if you're bathed in strong sun and close to the surface too. The deeper you go, the more you're going to want to think about a filter as mentioned above....though you could do post-processing either in the darkroom or on the desktop to bring out colours without use of a filter.
 
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