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Underexposed by 4 stops.. Can i save the roll?

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Jim17x

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I grabbed a back for my RZ67 and the speed dial was set at 400 so i thought it was my last roll of Tmax 400 that i left in it but when i opened the back there was a roll of Adox CHS25 in it.. Can i save this roll? I metered every shot at 400 so i underexposed it by 4 stops.. I only have Rodinal and i always use it 1+25 for 4 minutes. Is there a percentage of time that i can ad per stop during developing? Thanks
 

Bill Burk

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Did you spotmeter and place your shadows on Zone IV? In other words, are you likely to have given generous exposure to the film?

If not, then you will likely not get much image at all with any ordinary processing.

So develop it "for a very long time" and you may get something recognizable, possibly some interesting graphic images.
 
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Jim17x

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I only measured for ambient light.. I expecting some high contrast negs that i could scan but i dont think i will get anything that i could print..
 
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Jim17x

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I found this scale on digital truth for pushing... 1 stop push = (x1.5) 2 stop push = (x2.25) 3 stop push = (x4.5) If im correct a 4 stop push will be (x9.0)? That would give me a development time of 36 minutes in Rodinal at 1+25.. Does that sound about right?
 

polyglot

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Since you have Rodinal, I would suggest stand development, say 1+100 for about 2 hours. Agitate at 1 minute, 5 minutes, 20 minutes and 1 hour. I wouldn't get my hopes up much for good results though.

If you do a simple push by time extension without reducing agitation, you will end up with extremely high contrast and still no shadow detail.
 

nworth

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The short answer is no, at least not to get anything good. Pushing for more than two stops is not usually worth the effort, but you might try. Expect very high contrast and no shadow detail.
 
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If you only have Rodinal I'd suggest a weaker dilution such as 1+100 (or weaker) and reduced agitation (example: 1 minute initial agitation followed by 10 seconds every three minutes) for something like twice the normal developing time for that dilution). The idea would be to maximize development in the shadows while restraining the highlights somewhat. Not much to lose by trying that since there is probably not much to be done with this roll anyway. That pushing scale looks pretty silly to me.

This is roughly what I would recommend too.
 
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Jim17x

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If you only have Rodinal I'd suggest a weaker dilution such as 1+100 (or weaker) and reduced agitation (example: 1 minute initial agitation followed by 10 seconds every three minutes) for something like twice the normal developing time for that dilution). The idea would be to maximize development in the shadows while restraining the highlights somewhat. Not much to lose by trying that since there is probably not much to be done with this roll anyway. That pushing scale looks pretty silly to me.
Thanks.. I will give this a shot.
 

alanrockwood

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Rodinal is generally considered to be, if anything, a speed losing developer rather than a speed enhancing developer. How set are you on sticking with Rodinal?
 

pierods

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Rodinal stand.

I did the same with chs100. Everybody on the board said throw it out. I got very interesting results with Rodinal stand.
 
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Rodinal is generally considered to be, if anything, a speed losing developer rather than a speed enhancing developer. How set are you on sticking with Rodinal?

Rodinal has the ability to be used extremely dilute. This can give extremely long developing times.
The shadow detail when developing film is not a constant as many believe, the longer the film is in the developer, the more shadow detail you get. Normally the midtones and shadows develop more too, but because you agitate so seldom, the developer exhausts itself in those areas that received more exposure.
So using Rodinal at 1+200 for 90 minutes or so really CAN dig out amazing shadow detail. It's the most extreme compensating development I know of, and it actually works quite well.
 
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