Let's say I have some hp5+, a 28mm f/4 lens and don't have a flash or tripod and I'm wanting to shoot indoors at night. Based on http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm I need 10 stops from f/16 1/500 but I can only manage 8 stops to f/4 1/30 following the 1/f rule of thumb so would be 2 stops underexposed. What are my options and what are your preference for such a situation? I'm thinking I just underexpose and increase contrast when printing if I can't think of a way to support the camera instead of handholding. It's probably not as good to lower the shutter speed risking camera shake? I could push process (if I was going to use the whole roll in these conditions) but it's going to increase grain for increased contrast which I could do when printing. Does anyone have experience if grade 5 is enough extra contrast for two stops underexposure?
Underexpose or camera shake?
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How about brighter bulbs in the house lights?
More Bulbs?
More Bulbs?
Delta 3200?
Another thought is to be slightly more formal about the photos you take.
The concept at play in my thought is "the subjects proximity to the light sources available".
If you move your subjects closer to the lamps in the room the subjects will get more light and expose the film better.
The concept at play in my thought is "the subjects proximity to the light sources available".
If you move your subjects closer to the lamps in the room the subjects will get more light and expose the film better.
Play with the HP5, have fun with it. Waste a few frames on a roll you've already got in the camera. Don't even bother changing the development. See what you get.
I have successfully shot at 1/8 sec without any problems. Tuck in your arms, take a deep breath, exhale and press the shutter. With a 28mm lens at f/4 there your be no focusing problems in the situation you describe. You can also use a speed increasing developer like Diafine.
I have found that a simple shoulder brace (such as those made years ago for stabilising Super 8 cameras, etc) can have a dramatic effect on my ability to hold a camera still at slow shutter speeds. This (or a monopod or shoulder brace and monopod combined) is far more preferable than under exposing the film / push processing (especially when only some pictures on the roll are made in such a low light situation).
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de
My own tests show that HP5+ in DDX can be exposed at an EI of 800 without losing the shadows. I didn't go further with my tests so the EI may be higher. And then there is Microphen.
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if you are going to shoot indoors at a party then commit the whole roll of film to it. Film is cheap.
For low light use ilford delta 3200 at EI3200 and develop in Microphen stock (do NOT dilute further) for 9 minutes at 20 degC.
This will produce a normal contrast negative so if subject is normal contrast then everything will be good. It will be grainy on 35mm film but you get 3 stops more speed than with HP5.
Note that tests show that to hand hold without any movement you need a shutter speed of at least 125. Some people claim they can hold a camera still at 1/8 or 1/30 and I'm sure a few can but more likely they don't enalrge the result enough to show the movement. But what they can't do is stop the movement of people at a party unless they are posing people so no matter how well they can hold a camera still its useless if your subjects are moving. You need as fast a shutter speed as possible.
For low light use ilford delta 3200 at EI3200 and develop in Microphen stock (do NOT dilute further) for 9 minutes at 20 degC.
This will produce a normal contrast negative so if subject is normal contrast then everything will be good. It will be grainy on 35mm film but you get 3 stops more speed than with HP5.
Note that tests show that to hand hold without any movement you need a shutter speed of at least 125. Some people claim they can hold a camera still at 1/8 or 1/30 and I'm sure a few can but more likely they don't enalrge the result enough to show the movement. But what they can't do is stop the movement of people at a party unless they are posing people so no matter how well they can hold a camera still its useless if your subjects are moving. You need as fast a shutter speed as possible.
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I would 28mm f/2, rather than change hp5+.
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hi there
if your party isn't for a little bit
why don't you take some interior photographs in a similar situation
if you have an empty film cartridge, ... in the dark pull a few feet of a fresh roll of your hp5+ out
tape it on the spool and roll it inside and cut the "tongue" ... ( on both rolls )
shoot one roll at the slow shutter speed and practice bracing your arms against your body and exhaling slowly, and as you exhale depress your shutter.
then shoot the other roll under exposing it a stop ... and process them, and see which one works for you ...
nothing like a test run
if i was to tell you i am able to hold the shutter open without a tripod for as long as 35-45 seconds you probably wouldn't believe me you'd be surprised how still you can hold,,, if you have to ...
there is a camera strap that has a tongue you step on that is supposed to help people steady their cameras too. you step on the strap and pull up / make tense the strap. i've never used one
so i can't really say if they do what they are supposed to do ( seems easy to fabricate on one's own too)
good luck !
john
ps a cheap flash that you can adjust the light and point it UP might also help. a 1/8power burst and dragging the shutter mixing light works great
and cheap used multi power swivel flashes don't really sell for very much $$
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Carriage -- I can't recommend using a lighting chart for your situation. Room light is t00 variable. A light meter is far more versatile and reliable. Some old selenium cell meters are not sensitive enough for poorly lit interiors. Their utility can be enhanced by metering off of a sheet of white paper and giving maybe two stops more exposure than indicated. If you don't want to invest in a meter, boost the ambient lighting by a powerful shop light bounced off of the ceiling or walls behind you. This will provide more natural photographs than pointing the light directly at the victims.
A tripod and cable release should be a more versatile investment than a shop light. Sometimes setting the camera on whatever is handy also works. So does holding the camera tight against a wall or solid furniture. Long ago in the days of Kodachrome 25, I would brace myself and the camera against buildings or light posts for nighttime street photography at one second. It often worked.
A tripod and cable release should be a more versatile investment than a shop light. Sometimes setting the camera on whatever is handy also works. So does holding the camera tight against a wall or solid furniture. Long ago in the days of Kodachrome 25, I would brace myself and the camera against buildings or light posts for nighttime street photography at one second. It often worked.
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