Ok, so judging from all this excellent advice, I am going to try to achieve this effect by shooting with Fomapan 100 (for its bad handling of halation, as I have learned) and a zoom lens. My last question is, I have a Zeiss c/y mount 45mm that has T coating, so thinking of getting one of Yashica’s DSB (single coated) lenses. Will it matter if I get a prime or a zoom dsb? Will a zoom create more of this blown out effect?An inexpensive 70s era zoom lens may meet your needs too, although it can be hard to find a wide angle version.
Yes, the shittier the lens the better - for what you’re after. Seriously. Just use some sand paper to heavily scratch the front element of any lens and you’ll achieve the desired effect. A lens full of haze will work too.
....No scratched lens will ever give a good, sharp but uncoated lens look!
....if you are going to sand off a lens, please be smart. Sand off a filter that you’ll screw over the clean lens. Do it smart.
Ever tried it? I think that you'd be surprised. Scratches on the front have surprising little effect. Mostly just contribute "glow".
Good idea!
Fomapan 400 and/or Shanghai GP3 can give more or less a similar look - it has poor anti-halation properties.
you can also use some filters that will give you the same effectHello! I'm on the hunt for a nice uncoated lens for a 35mm body to do some black and white photography with pleasant diffraction. Pic of the kind of look I'm looking to match is attached - I love how the light coming through the subway windows blows out areas of the shots. I understand that single coated lenses from the 1950s can do the trick too. I have a Contax C/Y body and a Canon EF film body, but dont think either of those systems have lenses that fit the bill. Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts!
The film you use is just as important, as halation is also an effective way to achieve glow around highlights.
Fomapan 100 has an inefficient anti-halation layer and will show glow around highlights due to halation.
The dry plates I make have no anti-halation layer and show strong glow around highlights even with modern lenses and multilayer coatings.
Some really great images have been taken with plastic single element lenses, and they only needed a "coat" for protection from hail. So calling any lens "useless" is like ....There'
All single coated, too.
The op doesn't know what he wants. An uncoated double Gauss 50 is damn near useless, an uncoated Tessar is much better regarding flare but slower.
Single coated lenses are very good, unless lighting is very difficult they are indistinguishable from mc lenses.
My experience is uncoated lenses have a completely different feel and look compared to coated there's a big step change, there's far less difference between a Coated lens and a Multicoated lens. I don't use the term Single coated because many pre -Multi Coating" coated lenses actually have more than one layer of coating.
The British photographer James Ravilious used uncoated Leica lenses for the feel and look they gave to his work. I have a T coated CZJ 150mm f4.5 Tessar from1953/4 and the coatings are as good in terms of flare as modern MC equivalents, there's a visible coldness due to the bueish coating.but that was common with some early coaing needinga warm up filter for Colour work.
If you really want that uncoated feel get a n uncoated pre-WWII lens.
Ian
James Ravilious has to be one of my favourite photographers! Anyway, I use my (uncoated) Leica Summar lens on an almost daily basis and just love the rendering it gives.
All the best,
Dee.
That Fuji quicksnap lens doesn't flare that badly because there is one or zero air to glass interface
Does a tiffen pro mist filter achieve the look you want?
https://tiffen.com/collections/diffusion
All lenses even the Quicksnap have at least two air-to-glass interfaces.
Ian, it’s ok to say Single-layer coatings understanding that specifically means a 1/4 wave thick layer of Magnesium Flouride. So it means a specific thing. There are many different Multi-layer coatings, starting with the primitive designs of the 1960s, but they are all related in the fact that there’s only a handful of materials used in designing the layers. See the sticky post I made on the details of coatings somewhere here in Photrio.
Ok, so judging from all this excellent advice, I am going to try to achieve this effect by shooting with Fomapan 100 (for its bad handling of halation, as I have learned) and a zoom lens. My last question is, I have a Zeiss c/y mount 45mm that has T coating, so thinking of getting one of Yashica’s DSB (single coated) lenses. Will it matter if I get a prime or a zoom dsb? Will a zoom create more of this blown out effect?
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