This print-transfer is pretty much identical to what happens with some rolls of Shanghai GP3. I bought a brick a few years ago and it got worse with time, more or less. Didn't notice it on the first rolls, glaring on the last one I shot.
We'll, now I'm not feeling so alone. I tried the 120 ISO 100 film in February and discovered that I no longer possessed the skills to spool 120 film onto Jobo and Patterson reels. The challenge was there, and I couldn't resist. But, even after trying four different rolls with the "lights turned on", I couldn't manage it. Either the film base was made of spring steel, or it was petrified from age. But what I really suspect is that the base material was too thick, and the manufacturer used it, and then sold the film it at a reduced price. Whatever the cause, we came to a unanimous decision . . . "Never Again". I simply can't afford repeating mistakes like this.
What about the Ultrafine Extreme 400 in 120 format ? It looks like Harman made, just without any AH layer.I think you can totally discount the 120 is harman sourced. One of the things they have to buy in bulk is the backing paper, so even if they were manufacturing for someone else, why would they use a different backing, and that backing isn't Ilford, which as we know has little outline dotted circle shapes plus numbers and not solid dots like the image.
What about the Ultrafine Extreme 400 in 120 format ? It looks like Harman made, just without any AH layer.
To me, the worst thing that can happen with film is to not know what to expect. This film seems to be hugely unpredictable.
It's a shame that a vendor that people have depended on for years and decades, to suddenly provide a product with such inferior and completely unpredictable, and sometimes unusable results. Some of the results shown in this thread are truly horrible, and something I wouldn't take money to use. It just isn't worth spending time with.
Many years ago I used some Agfa APX 25 that was kindly given to me. I took it with me on a photo trip, and when I processed the film there was chemical fogging on it where the dye on the film backing paper was imprinted on the film, and ruined every single frame from that trip.
I hope they can realize that it will hurt their reputation to continue selling it. But what's worse is that it gives film photography, as an industry, a reputation for being an unreliable method of photography, something that is absolutely avoidable if it's just given half a chance with the correct methods and appropriate attention to quality parameters.
Here's my results from Ultrafine 100 in 120 format. Never again. I stick w/ Kodak and Ilford now. If you like circles, dots, and even film numbers on your images, this is your film. As for customer support, I called them on this. A very pleasant woman answered the phone, and said she was going to get someone who knew more than she did about the film to answer my questions. That was a couple of months ago. I'm still waiting.
By the by, Freestyle has Tri-X in 24 exp (35mm) for just $3.99, and the 36 exp is only $4.39 a roll after an instant rebate. We're all going to be kicking ourselves if we pass this one up.
Same mottling, same dot pattern and same font that I got on my negatives with Shanghai GP3.
.Note that Ultrafine and Ultrafine Xtreme are not the same films. I've used the Xtreme in 35mm, and I've heard rumored that it is Kentmere. In any case, it is great stuff and well worth buying.
I'm glad to hear the Xtreme version works well. Didn't mean to generalize and say all Ultrafine film is not fit for consumption.
I will use my remaining 9 rolls of the regular Ultrafine to season film developer since it is, for all practical purposes, useless.
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY: ![]() |
