Two tripods: Architecture with Chamonix 45H-1

[Darryl Roberts]

Hi,

Berlebach Tripod Report 302

Leofoto LS-255C Ranger Series Tripod​

I will be shooting on streets and sidewalks in Atlanta.
The Leofoto is lighter, but the the Berlebach is supposed to be very good for vibration dumping.

Please offer any advice, knowledge, I appreciate it. If you know of better tripod legs, under $300, for my architectural pursuits please share.

Thank you, I love this Website.

 

[Besk]

I use a heavier, aluminum, older 340 series Gitzo tripod for my Sinar for architecture etc.
For field use with my other, lighter 4x5's I use a Gitzo carbon fiber 1228 tripod.

The Berlebach would be very nice but doesn't collapse to a very small package. Does it have rubber feet for sidewalks? (Edit- Yes it does.) I am not familiar with Leofoto tripods.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

It really depends on two things: First, how tall a tripod you need (if there's a difference in height between the two models) and, secondly, how and how far you plan to carry the tripod. If you're really comfortable carrying a larger and bulkier tripod, then you'll be assured of stability.

However, if a larger tripod would keep you from going certain places, shorten your work day or otherwise be awkward, then go for a smaller, lighter tripod.

FWIW, I shot on the streets and sidewalks of Vienna, Austria (where I lived for 30 years) by transporting my 4x5 kit (Wista SW, four lenses, spotmeter, etc.) in a rolling backpack on my back with my tripod strapped onto the rear rack of my bicycle. My tripod was a lightweight Bogen/Manfrotto 3205 fitted with a 3-way 3025 head. I don't think the Berlebach would have been even possible in that scenario.

Keep in mind that all you really need is a fraction of a second of absolute stillness from your tripod. Yes, there are vibrations from passing traffic, etc., but those you can wait out usually. You can hang things from the tripod to help it damp vibrations as well (my filmholder pouch was always on the tripod and a carry a nylon bag that I can hang from the center column after filling it with stuff). Waiting till things are still before tripping the shutter is the trick. Not so difficult in architectural photography, since your subjects aren't moving that much

Best,

Doremus

 

[DREW WILEY]

I disagree with Doremus - the more solid the tripod the better. Why gamble? Architectural shots might take take several seconds or even much longer, depending. And outdoor situations potentially imply wind. A 6 or 7 lb tripod is comparatively nothing to tote around compared to an 8x10 kit. I do have a solid rigid first version Gitzo CF Reporter tripod less than 4 lbs suitable for attaching a lightwt 4x5 field camera directly attached to the platform top, or even a Sinar F monorail via its own rail clamp. It will even fit within a regulation airline carry-on. But I really prefer my lighter weight Ries wooden one whenever possible. Some of those Leofotos look way too spindly and vibration prone. And as usual, the weakest link is often the tripod head itself. You don't even need one. Your camera has a VH reversible back, and the leveling is easily done with leg adjustments only. Avoid ball heads like the plague. Throw away any center column, or save it for blowing poison darts in the jungle.

 

[bdial]

The Berlebach will be faster to set up, since you’ll only need to deal with 3 leg clamps instead of potentially 12. I’m going to speculate that the weight capacity specs are probably more reliable on the Berlebach than the Leofoto.

 

[_T_]

If you’re thinking of the leofoto I would not go with the ranger series. That’s their lightweight travel tripod range and they are not suited to such large cameras especially outdoors and with long exposures.

The summit series has several sets of legs that would work better depending on what specs you need.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

It really depends on two things: First, how tall a tripod you need (if there's a difference in height between the two models) and, secondly, how and how far you plan to carry the tripod. If you're really comfortable carrying a larger and bulkier tripod, then you'll be assured of stability.

However, if a larger tripod would keep you from going certain places, shorten your work day or otherwise be awkward, then go for a smaller, lighter tripod.

FWIW, I shot on the streets and sidewalks of Vienna, Austria (where I lived for 30 years) by transporting my 4x5 kit (Wista SW, four lenses, spotmeter, etc.) in a rolling backpack on my back with my tripod strapped onto the rear rack of my bicycle. My tripod was a lightweight Bogen/Manfrotto 3205 fitted with a 3-way 3025 head. I don't think the Berlebach would have been even possible in that scenario.

Keep in mind that all you really need is a fraction of a second of absolute stillness from your tripod. Yes, there are vibrations from passing traffic, etc., but those you can wait out usually. You can hang things from the tripod to help it damp vibrations as well (my filmholder pouch was always on the tripod and a carry a nylon bag that I can hang from the center column after filling it with stuff). Waiting till things are still before tripping the shutter is the trick. Not so difficult in architectural photography, since your subjects aren't moving that much

Best,

Doremus

I need 50 inches maximum.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I disagree with Doremus - the more solid the tripod the better. Why gamble? Architectural shots might take take several seconds or even much longer, depending. And outdoor situations potentially imply wind. A 6 or 7 lb tripod is comparatively nothing to tote around compared to an 8x10 kit. I do have a solid rigid first version Gitzo CF Reporter tripod less than 4 lbs suitable for attaching a lightwt 4x5 field camera directly attached to the platform top, or even a Sinar F monorail via its own rail clamp. It will even fit within a regulation airline carry-on. But I really prefer my lighter weight Ries wooden one whenever possible. Some of those Leofotos look way too spindly and vibration prone. And as usual, the weakest link is often the tripod head itself. You don't even need one. Your camera has a VH reversible back, and the leveling is easily done with leg adjustments only. Avoid ball heads like the plague. Throw away any center column, or save it for blowing poison darts in the jungle.

Indeed, some of my exposures will be long. Though I am aiming for the lightest, stable kit rigid legs will likely be worth their weight.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

If you’re thinking of the leofoto I would not go with the ranger series. That’s their lightweight travel tripod range and they are not suited to such large cameras especially outdoors and with long exposures.

The summit series has several sets of legs that would work better depending on what specs you need.

Thank you. I will take a look at those.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

The Berlebach will be faster to set up, since you’ll only need to deal with 3 leg clamps instead of potentially 12. I’m going to speculate that the weight capacity specs are probably more reliable on the Berlebach than the Leofoto.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I use a heavier, aluminum, older 340 series Gitzo tripod for my Sinar for architecture etc.
For field use with my other, lighter 4x5's I use a Gitzo carbon fiber 1228 tripod.

The Berlebach would be very nice but doesn't collapse to a very small package. Does it have rubber feet for sidewalks? (Edit- Yes it does.) I am not familiar with Leofoto tripods.

 

[Rick A]

I've owned two Berlebach tripods and several other brands of alloy and carbon fiber tripods. Wood tripods are superior for vibration damping, but I never cared for the non interchangeable spiked feet. I switch out between my Vanguard CF and an older Induro alloy legs, they both have three section legs, are nearly identical in weight and collapsed length, but the Induro legs are taller by several inches when extended. I have Benro HD3A pan heads on both.

 

[DREW WILEY]

My lighter weight Ries has reversible inner legs - a spike on one end, a rubber tip on the other. My Feisol CF tripod has removable threaded-on spikes. But even with permanent spikes on wooden Ries or surveyor tripods, you can just bring along a set of rubber caster cups to protect floors (if you have permission to do that, of course).

 

[Chuck1]

I have a berlebach reporter 3052?
It's a little bulky but light. I like it a lot.
I'd stay away from the type with a leveling center post.
If you don't like the metal spikes on concrete or indoors on nice floors carry wedge shaped pieces of wood(shims for framing doors), or rubbery shims if you can find them, but tie the legs together so one doesn't skate out.
I also have the little tabletop berlebach which is great.
I have aluminum and cf too, but I like wood

 

[Doremus Scudder]

A question: Why aren't you looking at Gitzo and Manfrotto tripods as well. Is there something special about Leofoto?

And, to agree with Drew somewhat A spindly tripod that won't do the job isn't worth having. There are smaller aluminum tripods that are relatively lightweight and quite stable that you can consider. I was simply assuming that you've researched the Leofoto tripod and know that it's stable enough to do the job. If there's a question about stability with the Ranger series (as the post above suggests), then widening your search might be a good idea.

Get a quality tripod that will do the job in the largest size that fits your working style. My working style was schlepping my kit around the city on a bicycle; I needed a compact and lightweight kit. If you're going to be driving and setting up from your car, that's not a consideration. If you're going to be carrying everything around on foot, then you need to objectively assess your abilities in that regard.

If I remember correctly, my 3205 Manfrotto (probably has a different number now...) extends to 56" and collapses down to 26.5". The 3021 is a bit larger, extends to 71" and collapses down quite small to 26". Either would be stable enough for your 2.5-pound camera even with a longer lens (I use Wista DXs and an SW with mine and lenses up to 300mm).

Best,

Doremus

 

[DREW WILEY]

Too bad my brother's aluminum Tiltall was worn out by the time I inherited it. Those were the best budget tripods ever, and easily capable of handling 4x5 woodies.

 

[Mick Fagan]

I have the Berlabach Report 3042, which appears to be identical to the current Report 302; I think they dropped the third number on these tripods quite some years ago.

Mine has the centre levelling ball in the head, which to me is really good. It allows me to set the tripod up with the legs in their best position, sometimes in cracks or holes in pavement, then after getting the head more or less even, one then very quickly positions the centre ball to get the spirit level showing level, one is then able to attach the camera and off you go. This is a very speedy set-up system, which in an urban environment can be an asset; it is to me.

One thing I would suggest is to get their steel chain accessory, which simply slips onto each leg. This stops the rubberised feet slipping or sliding in ways you don't need or want. Or, you can manufacture one yourself out of various materials.

Stainless Steel Chain Report from Berlebach ® Tripods

Berlebach Stainless Steel Chain Report: Stainless steel Chain 3x 60 cm

www.berlebach.de

I mainly use this tripod with my Shen Hao HZX45-IIA camera, average weight of camera and lens would be around the 3.5kg to 4kg mark. It works very well with this camera size in all situations. I also use it with my Toyo 54G, (shown below) which is a somewhat heavier monorail, it does the job, but with the camera and other stuff somewhere around 7kg-8kg with various lenses the tripod knows its working, but handles the weight well; if you know what I mean.

My tripod came with a 100mm centre column, I have the accessory 500mm centre column, it takes a minute or two to change them over. After about 10 years of use, I decided to leave the longer centre column in as for all intents and purposes, the extra weight was minimal.

For vibration absorption, this tripod is the most vibrationless tripod I've personally owned.

The Achilles heal of this camera is that it doesn't fold up super small, apart from that, I think it is perfect for my usage.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I have the Berlabach Report 3042, which appears to be identical to the current Report 302; I think they dropped the third number on these tripods quite some years ago.

Mine has the centre levelling ball in the head, which to me is really good. It allows me to set the tripod up with the legs in their best position, sometimes in cracks or holes in pavement, then after getting the head more or less even, one then very quickly positions the centre ball to get the spirit level showing level, one is then able to attach the camera and off you go. This is a very speedy set-up system, which in an urban environment can be an asset; it is to me.

One thing I would suggest is to get their steel chain accessory, which simply slips onto each leg. This stops the rubberised feet slipping or sliding in ways you don't need or want. Or, you can manufacture one yourself out of various materials.

Stainless Steel Chain Report from Berlebach ® Tripods

Berlebach Stainless Steel Chain Report: Stainless steel Chain 3x 60 cm

www.berlebach.de

I mainly use this tripod with my Shen Hao HZX45-IIA camera, average weight of camera and lens would be around the 3.5kg to 4kg mark. It works very well with this camera size in all situations. I also use it with my Toyo 54G, (shown below) which is a somewhat heavier monorail, it does the job, but with the camera and other stuff somewhere around 7kg-8kg with various lenses the tripod knows its working, but handles the weight well; if you know what I mean.

My tripod came with a 100mm centre column, I have the accessory 500mm centre column, it takes a minute or two to change them over. After about 10 years of use, I decided to leave the longer centre column in as for all intents and purposes, the extra weight was minimal.

For vibration absorption, this tripod is the most vibrationless tripod I've personally owned.

The Achilles heal of this camera is that it doesn't fold up super small, apart from that, I think it is perfect for my usage.


View attachment 359675

View attachment 359676

Wow, I’m definitely leaning toward the Berlebach thank you much.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

A question: Why aren't you looking at Gitzo and Manfrotto tripods as well. Is there something special about Leofoto?

And, to agree with Drew somewhat A spindly tripod that won't do the job isn't worth having. There are smaller aluminum tripods that are relatively lightweight and quite stable that you can consider. I was simply assuming that you've researched the Leofoto tripod and know that it's stable enough to do the job. If there's a question about stability with the Ranger series (as the post above suggests), then widening your search might be a good idea.

Get a quality tripod that will do the job in the largest size that fits your working style. My working style was schlepping my kit around the city on a bicycle; I needed a compact and lightweight kit. If you're going to be driving and setting up from your car, that's not a consideration. If you're going to be carrying everything around on foot, then you need to objectively assess your abilities in that regard.

If I remember correctly, my 3205 Manfrotto (probably has a different number now...) extends to 56" and collapses down to 26.5". The 3021 is a bit larger, extends to 71" and collapses down quite small to 26". Either would be stable enough for your 2.5-pound camera even with a longer lens (I use Wista DXs and an SW with mine and lenses up to 300mm).

Best,

Doremus

My budget is around $300.

 

[otto.f]

I economising on tripods with LF is a waste of money, serious

 

[Doremus Scudder]

My budget is around $300.

You can get a good used Manfrotto 3205 for around $100 on eBay. The 3201 isn't much more. Local photo shops in my area have lots of used Manfrotto/Bogen tripods and heads for very little. Maybe in your area too? Atlanta must have some good photo stores. Good used gear is 100% better than bad new gear.

FWIW, I've never owned a new tripod. I have four or five now, ranging from large wooden ones, like the Berlebach you link to, to the small 3205 with a "Junior" 3-way head. This latter is the one I use most in the field. It's rated at 11 lbs, so will hold smaller wooden folders just fine. Mine has scratches on it from Death Valley to the Matanuska Gacier in Alaska.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I've decided to go with the Berlebach TRIPOD REPORT 803:

• 5 pounds
• < $300
• 52 inches, collapses to 25 inches
• WOOD

Thank you all for your insightful responses.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Thanks for the link to Leofoto. I saw on their web page that they offer a series with flip-lock leg clamps. I prefer them because they are quicker in the field. Eventually, I want to replace my very convenient but heavy Cullmann Titan tripod with a carbon unit that has flip locks.

As for light weight wood: if you can find a Crown No. 4 tripod in decent condition, it will hold a 4x5 camera. Mine seems wobbly, but the wood dampens vibration instantly. These date back to the early 20th century, so many are in poor condition.

 

[btaylor]

I've decided to go with the Berlebach TRIPOD REPORT 803:

• 5 pounds
• < $300
• 52 inches, collapses to 25 inches
• WOOD

Thank you all for your insightful responses.

Congrats! I have quite a few tripods and the Berlebach I almost always reach for first.

 

[MurrayMinchin]

I’ve got a Berlebach Report 9033 (now called a 933) which like Mick’s has a levelling base that’s a huge time saver...no need to fuss around getting the legs juuuuust right for the camera to be level. Especially useful if panning to take several photos or taking slight variations side to side.

It goes a bit taller and is a bit heavier than the one you linked to.

Got it in the darker colour and it’s one of the most beautiful and functionally satisfying bits of gear I own.