Tuning up a Brownie Autographic

[warden]

Hi all,

I'm trying to get an old family camera into fighting shape. It has two pretty obvious issues so far. First, the autographic window leaks light like crazy (although not seen on these images). I think I've solved that but will know more tomorrow with the next test roll.

On today's images you can see horizontal lines that are present on all of the images, getting worse toward the end of the roll. I have ideas about what to do next but I'm wondering if you have worked with cameras like this and have suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Looks like film might be scratching on something as film is advanced. Are the film touch points smooth to the touch?

 

[warden]

Looks like film might be scratching on something as film is advanced. Are the film touch points smooth to the touch?

I think that's what is happening. There are two rollers holding the film taught and I lubricated the shafts very lightly, thinking the film might be sliding rather than rolling properly. They roll easily now and seem smooth enough. We'll see tomorrow. The deeper scratches at the top are puzzling though and I''m wondering if the film is hitting something other than just the rollers.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I think that's what is happening. There are two rollers holding the film taught and I lubricated the shafts very lightly, thinking the film might be sliding rather than rolling properly. They roll easily now and seem smooth enough. We'll see tomorrow. The deeper scratches at the top are puzzling though and I''m wondering if the film is hitting something other than just the rollers.

Is the scratch even along entire length? Does it become fainter as you move towards the end of the roll? There's a lot of tension at first, but as more film is taken up on the take up spool, there's less. Does your Brownie take 120 without any modifications? I have to respool mine onto a 620 spool. My Hawkeye takes 120, but I still have to trim down the spool ends with nail clippers.

 

[warden]

It was designed for 120 film so no problem there. The scratches are very light at the beginning of the roll and gradually get worse toward the end of the roll.

 

[Kino]

Lay the processed negative back into the camera with the emulsion in and the image upside down and backwards.

Look along the line the scratch proscribes and you'll find your problem (maybe; if it was a chunk of crud lodged against a roller, it might have fallen out when you unloaded the camera).

You didn't mention if it is an emulsion or base scratch, so check the appropriate side...

 

[warden]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm pretty sure the rollers just weren't rolling, and that was causing the scratches. Also there were bad light leaks from the autograph door and possibly the red window frame counter. I sealed those openings and lubricated the rollers and the results are so much better. Here's one image from yesterday, looking not so good.

And then images from today, with no scratches whatsoever and no leaks that I would complain about:

So. I want to use this camera this year. The images are surprisingly good for a hundred year old camera with a filthy lens in my opinion. But the lack of contrast reminds me of my YachicaMat LM before I flocked the interior and got a lens hood. I know there is only so much I can expect from this heirloom but I do want to improve the performance just a bit. I'm thinking about making a lens hood but first has anyone here seen a lens hood on a Brownie folder before? A quick Google search didn't reveal any.

Also I don't think there is anything inside this camera to be flocked unlike that old Yashica, but if you've ever seen improvements made to old Brownie folders specific to light scattering inside the camera I'd be grateful for a link.

Thanks!

 

[MattKing]

I tend to use my hand and/or body to shade the lens on my almost 100 year old folder. It works well, although it is easier when the camera is on a tripod.

 

[warden]

I tend to use my hand and/or body to shade the lens on my almost 100 year old folder. It works well, although it is easier when the camera is on a tripod.

I could use my hand but that would deny me the geeky pleasure of producing a rapid prototyped lens hood for a 105 year old camera. If that's not cool nothing is.

 

[Kino]

I think that camera uses a Series V slip on lens hood; should be available via Ebay with some effort. Sometimes you can find a combo Series V lens hood with a filter ring stacked on it.

You could also try a Series V Yellow (K25) or Orange (21) if you have sky in the image. Don't forget to allow for the filter factor!

You could also develop your negatives with a higher energy developer; but you never mentioned what you use in the first place.

 

[warden]

I think that camera uses a Series V slip on lens hood; should be available via Ebay with some effort. Sometimes you can find a combo Series V lens hood with a filter ring stacked on it.

You could also try a Series V Yellow (K25) or Orange (21) if you have sky in the image. Don't forget to allow for the filter factor!

You could also develop your negatives with a higher energy developer; but you never mentioned what you use in the first place.

Dang, I'm almost disappointed that this product exists but I'll look into it.

These pictures were made with TMax400 and TMax developer, 68F @ 6:30.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Sirius Glass]

I could use my hand but that would deny me the geeky pleasure of producing a rapid prototyped lens hood for a 105 year old camera. If that's not cool nothing is.

That is what the hat is for.

 

[Kino]

Dang, I'm almost disappointed that this product exists but I'll look into it.

These pictures were made with TMax400 and TMax developer, 68F @ 6:30.

Thanks for the tip!

You can always cobble one up!

Give it an extra 30 seconds on the TMax developer; it should increase contrast a bit.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

My Holgas leak like mad. Black duct tape from the loonie store to the rescue.

 

[MattKing]

Black duct tape from the loonie store to the rescue.

You might have to translate this Andrew for our non-Canadian friends.

 

[warden]

I think that camera uses a Series V slip on lens hood; should be available via Ebay with some effort. Sometimes you can find a combo Series V lens hood with a filter ring stacked on it.

You could also try a Series V Yellow (K25) or Orange (21) if you have sky in the image. Don't forget to allow for the filter factor!

You could also develop your negatives with a higher energy developer; but you never mentioned what you use in the first place.

Thanks for the heads up about the hoods and filters. The camera has a Bausch & Lomb Rapid Recitlinear with an OD of .75" (19mm ish). I'll search for accessories. This lens is the size of a friggin' dime!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

You might have to translate this Andrew for our non-Canadian friends.

Poundland,
100 Yen Shop,
Dollar Store....