could a yellowed radioactive lens such as the zebra Pancolar or the 7-element Takumar work as a replacement for the 85 filter?
how important is using a filter, given that I'm scanning the negatives anyway?
Of course, I will experiment with it, I was just wondering if there is any prior practical knowledge on the issues. I thought using the Pancolar (whose yellowing is rather radical, though not quite the same hue and not as strong as the filter) might be a neat trick.No, the yellowing is too weak to mimic a true tungsten-balance filter. I also suspect the 'filter' absorption curve of the yellowing doesn't really match the proper filter.
Depends on who you ask. I'd suggest just giving it a go and seeing what happens. If the results are adequate to your needs, I wouldn't worry about it.
Just sheer meannessOut of curiosity - why not get some 250D for shooting under daylight conditions? There seems to be plenty of the stuff around these days.
Thanks! I'll report once I have results, though given my rather sluggish workflow (scanning being the weak point), it might take a while...Gotcha! Well, looking forward to hearing about your experiences! And perhaps someone may still come along with some more concrete information on the yellowed glass vs. tungsten filter.
scanning being the weak point
I wish I could afford that (space- and time-wise)! I had an enlarger as a kid, and there are few things in the world more magical than seeing in red light a photograph being developed...Oh, don't mention it. It's probably my least favorite part of the entire process. It's in fact one of the main reasons I usually do darkroom prints only.
Thanks! I'll report once I have results, though given my rather sluggish workflow (scanning being the weak point), it might take a while...
Yep, I need to get one; I somehow have an 80, 81 and 82, but not an 85...If you can, buy or borrow an 85 filter, to permit you to do a comparison.
I send my films to a lab, but I think they are using proper ECN-2 chemicals. Does this make much of a difference?Are you processing the film in ECN-2 chemicals, or are you (cross)-processing the film in C-41 chemicals?
Yes, shooting B/W is one obvious situation where yellowing shouldn't be a problem and can actually be advantageous. Would be nice if it worked with tungsten film as well!I have a Minolta 28mmF2.8 MC with the yellowing thorium element and I can say it has a mild effect with B&W film rendering clouds more obvious than without. I checked it against a 28mm F3.5 MC and there seems to be about 1/2 to 3/4 stop difference by the built in meter on an XM.
What I can say it is one of the sharpest 28mm lenses I have have ever used.
I send my films to a lab, but I think they are using proper ECN-2 chemicals. Does this make much of a difference?
Yes, I know. I did this with some of my lenses, but it doesn't always work well (the Pancolar is known to be a particularly bad case), and I left a couple untreated on purpose.I don't know if this interests you but you can reduce or sometimes even eliminate the yellowing of thorium elements, depending on how bad it is, by exposing them to uv light.
I send my films to a lab, but I think they are using proper ECN-2 chemicals. Does this make much of a difference
Thanks! Another reason to get an 85 filter...way back in the past, about 4 versions of eastman colour ago, I found that not using the #85 made for less latitude as the blue would be slightly over exposed. YMMV
Thanks, that's a most instructive (and engaging) read!A few labs these days offer ECN2 processing. Most labs will just process C41 whatever 35mm color film you send them. Yes, it makes a difference. https://tinker.koraks.nl/photography/balancing-act-a-brief-look-at-ecn2-vs-c41-colors/
Even if I had a Chevy, it'd be a quit feat getting it over across the pond! ;-)I would put it in the trunk of 72 Chevy, preferably 4 door, in mint green and drive to Salt Lake City, doesn't matter from whence you come from as long as it's in July. Too late for this year, just leave it in the can sitting on top of your air fryer until then.
In the mean time you can see if the health claims of the 1890s are true. Radioactive elements (as in the elements in a nice Planar etc) are supposed to revitalize all manner of things. I've been sleeping with a couple of screw mount Super Takumars for some time now.
My wife sleeps on the King size bed in the master bedroom, I'm sleeping on a lumpy queen in the guest room.
She says she's never felt better.
I have cured some of my radioactive lenses, or at least tried, though the Pancolar is notorious for its resistance (it gets better, but apparently never quite clear, even after months of exposure to UV).You can "clean" radioactive lenses - just expose them to direct light. If the yellowing is more serious - you can direct an LED lamp for a week.
Is this something you know from practical experience, about the unevenness? I've shot a few rolls with an untreated Takumar, and noticed no variation in colour/light density across the frame, though admittedly the yellowing was fairly moderate. Anyway, this shouldn't matter for TTL metering, no more than a filter would.You can't use the yellowing to correct the color balance - it's uneven, strongest in the center. This will also reduce your exposure, which can mess up the camera's metering - sometimes you can lose a whole stop of light.
Yes, it looks like I might need an 85 filter after all...Regarding the 85(b) filter - you can get a cheap gelatin one at first - they come in several sizes. You simply hold it in front of the lens just before shooting, so you can test on lenses with different threads without having to buy several different round filters.
Is this something you know from practical experience, about the unevenness? I've shot a few rolls with untreated Takumar, and noticed no variation in colour/light density across the frame, though admittedly the yellowing was fairly moderate. Anyway, this should matter for TTL metering, no more than a filter would.
That's interesting! Do you by any chance remember what lens it was, how much yellowing it had, and at what aperture the effect was more pronounced?A few years ago I had a yellowed lens - I tried it with a mirrorless digital camera on a white wall via an adapter. The pigmentation towards the center was pronounced.
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