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If you're using a focal plane shutter, the shutter speed must be slower than the duration of the flash.
If the shutter closed Before the flash turns off, a portion of your frame will not be exposed by the flash.
Take a look.
https://fstoppers.com/originals/demystifying-high-speed-sync-68527
Yes. I wonder if leaf shutters have higher sync speeds?To elaborate further: You want the shutter (first curtain) to be fully open (across the entire film gate) before the flash fires. Likewise, you don't want the second curtain to move across the film gate until the flash is done. By keeping the shutter speed at the sync speed (e.g. 1/250) or at a slower speed (e.g. 1/125), that guarantees the entire frame of the film is uniformly exposed during the flash interval.
This looks as if it will fulfil functions that an open flash will not such as an even light, avoidance of red-eye etc in situations where bounce is not practical. Whether it is worth the money compared to a cheaper elasticated white cloth over the flash is another matter.Not a chance..sorry. No tupperware on my flashes.
Yes. I wonder if leaf shutters have higher sync speeds?
High-speed synch only works on certain modern cameras, and is not really necessary for most fill-flash except maybe sports in brightly-lit situations. Probably not many film cameras, as the OP is asking about, will do high-speed synch. Most of the time Focal plane shutters usually synch at 1/125 or 1/250. Leaf shutters will usually synch to 1/1000th, still slower than any portable flash unit.Yes. I wonder if leaf shutters have higher sync speeds?
The flash duration is almost always much shorter than the shutter speed. For example, the Nikon SB-910 flash duration ranges from 1/880th (full power) to 1/38,500th (1/128 power)! The issue is synch speed. Most focal plane shutter film cameras will synch up to 1/125th or 1/250th, faster than that you will encounter problems. Some digital camera have high-speed synch when used with dedicated flash units, but not any focal-plane film cameras that I am aware of. A leaf shutter will synch at all speeds, I believe.To elaborate further: You want the shutter (first curtain) to be fully open (across the entire film gate) before the flash fires. Likewise, you don't want the second curtain to move across the film gate until the flash is done. By keeping the shutter speed at the sync speed (e.g. 1/250) or at a slower speed (e.g. 1/125), that guarantees the entire frame of the film is uniformly exposed during the flash interval.
Careful with this. Many focal plane shutter cameras - particularly older 35mm and medium format - have slower maximum synch speeds. 1/60 or even 1/30 in some cases.Most of the time Focal plane shutters usually synch at 1/125 or 1/250.
From my experience, most strobes I've used have a longer flash duration at higher power settings. You'll have to watch your sync speeds at higher power settings. Also, as for using strobes with ambient lighting, the higher power settings will usually result in darker backgrounds from the strobe intensity is brighter than daylight.High-speed synch only works on certain modern cameras, and is not really necessary for most fill-flash except maybe sports in brightly-lit situations. Probably not many film cameras, as the OP is asking about, will do high-speed synch. Most of the time Focal plane shutters usually synch at 1/125 or 1/250. Leaf shutters will usually synch to 1/1000th, still slower than any portable flash unit.
The flash duration is almost always much shorter than the shutter speed. For example, the Nikon SB-910 flash duration ranges from 1/880th (full power) to 1/38,500th (1/128 power)! The issue is synch speed. Most focal plane shutter film cameras will synch up to 1/125th or 1/250th, faster than that you will encounter problems. Some digital camera have high-speed synch when used with dedicated flash units, but not any focal-plane film cameras that I am aware of. A leaf shutter will synch at all speeds, I believe.
Yep. All the above is good info. I'm used to sync speeds of 1/60 and 1/30 on focal plane shutters, so the 1/250 on an FE2 is amazing (though I realize it travels vertically, so the distance it has to cover is less).
And flashbulbs are a whole different situation - it'd be fun to try some day.
Yes, today focal plane shutters may have a synch speed of 1/250 or even higher.Yes most leaf shutter cameras sync with flash at all speeds but their highest speed is usually only 1/500
Sure, it's not to my taste but I see it done that way.Thanks Mike, I'll start there.
One question; if I want more flash in the mix can I dial the exposure down a stop and the flash compensation up a stop? That way it starts to look like the key light?
This is true and a good correction (and even more accurate if Nikon F-3’s 1/80 synch speed is also mentioned) but only part of the issue being discussed. At the strobe duration rate Pieter cites it really doesn’t matter much. Even at a lower number that is often cited, 1/440 sec, it only potentially impacts the highest shutter speeds as someone already pointed out.Careful with this. Many focal plane shutter cameras - particularly older 35mm and medium format - have slower maximum synch speeds. 1/60 or even 1/30 in some cases.
Same experience here, to the point where I often use Old Vivitar rather than newer TTL flash.Regarding the old Vivitar 285's - long-story-short, my TTL-capable (Nikon DSLR) was down for repair, had an event where I needed on-camera flash. Grabbed my old 285 and stuck it on my (samsung NX1) mirrorless digital and used the auto function on the 285, camera to manual, and set my f-stop via the calculator dial on the side. Worked fantastically, just like the old days. That technology was really pretty solid.
Actually, it’s about the same but more exaggerated. The issue of flash duration vs shutter speed is an efficiency issue - a mismatch. With electronic strobe that mismatch occurs under only a few combinations of conditions. With flash bulb that mismatch occurs under a lot more (some remarkabley common) conditions. To the point where flash bulb exposure is often expressed in tables and when expressed in a single GN there are myria caveats. There are even slide rules to support resolving the “best” flash bulb exposure. But that’s a different thread... just thought I’d touch on it since you brought it up and I find that to be a fascinating practical problem....
And flashbulbs are a whole different situation - it'd be fun to try some day.
Hi,
I've done a lot of off camera and bounce flash with digi. I find it very easy but not so easy to translate that knowledge to film.
Let me explain.
I normally shoot manual camera settings and TTL bounce flash. I got spoiled by just looking at the LCD and using that to adjust the mix of ambient and flash using the flash FEC.
Now I need to KNOW what the heck I'm doing because there isn't instant feedback.
Does anyone shoot this way? With your camera on manual and your flash on TTL?
Does anyone shoot this way? With your camera on manual and your flash on TTL?
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