Trying RA-4 Rev. Process

[FilmIs4Ever]

I'm hereby christening it "RR-4" from now on. Hope this is OK.

One thing I'm doing different with RR-4 is I'll be tray-processing to start, but will be doing standard-temperature RA-4 thereon out, using Supra.

Could this possibly lead to any sort of reticulation or pinholing?

Also, I hear that this process leads to excessive contrast.

If I were to flash, would I want to use the same filter pack as for printing the chrome?

Finally, what's a good starting filter pack? YC not MY, right?

Has anyone tried this with K64? That is what I'll be printing.


Regards.

 

[FilmIs4Ever]

Oh, and for the sake of processor control, would it be best to try to keep water off the print before feeding it into the machine? I could squeegee it or air dry the print in the dark after the exposure.

I take it, because of a lack of a bleach before 2nd (color) developer, too much exposure is bad? Or is exposure still to completion? Without a bleach before-hand, I'd think too much reexposure could cause a printing-out effect on remaining silver halides preventing them from color-developing in the RA-4 developer.

 

[FilmIs4Ever]

I would really appreciate some advice. Anyone? Anyone?

I'm doing this tomorrow. . .

 

[Photo Engineer]

Karl;

Add 50 M and 1 stop to your regular exposure for RA4 paper. Do not use Fuji paper, it does not work.

It is very high contrast. I use Dektol 1:3 for the 1st developer. I use RA-RT developer replenisher/ no starter for the color developer.

Good luck.

PE

 

[FilmIs4Ever]

Thanks Ron. I'll give it a try now. . .

 

[Domin]

One thing I'm doing different with RR-4 is I'll be tray-processing to start, but will be doing standard-temperature RA-4 thereon out, using Supra.
Regards.

Do you mean Supra with number or Supra Endura? The former won't work.

 

[Photo Engineer]

That is right. Supra ///, // and etc will not work.

PE

 

[naknak]

If you want my advice forget trays. You can't work in total darkness, so there is no help or need doing it. Buy the Jobo drum 1525,Tank system 1500,expose the negative and then put the paper into the drum.It works with 50(less) to 100(max) ml diluted solution. 45 to 60sec. color developer (CD) time and the same goes for Bleach Fix (BX). Washing between CD and BX. Don't forget continuous agitation (rolling it with your hands) and good luck. Temperature tolerance 18 to 25 Celsius.

Kyprianos

 

[Photo Engineer]

I use trays all the time with good results. I use a WR 13 safelight with a 15 watt bulb about 5 feet away directed at the ceiling. I can see just fine.

PE

 

[naknak]

I'm using Fujicolor paper in MY filtration.Here a sample

Kyprianos

 

[Photo Engineer]

The people who have tried reversal processing of Fuji CA paper, have so far, reported failure for a variety of reasons. There was quite a discussion about this over several threads on PN. Your results are excellent. Would you post your process?

PE

 

[naknak]

If something goes wrong I prefer to reprint.No safe lights,visibility low, aged ocular nerve.

Kyprianos

 

[Anon Ymous]

I use trays all the time with good results. I use a WR 13 safelight with a 15 watt bulb about 5 feet away directed at the ceiling. I can see just fine.
PE

Hello PE,

could you please provide some information about that safelight? Is it just a filter? Availability? Google didn't reveal anything.

BTW, Kodak papers seem to have very low sensitivity at about 580nm, according to tech pub E4021. Would it be worthy to make a LED safelight?

 

[naknak]

The proccess: Tetenal RA 4, Fujicolor Crystall Archive bulk roll paper (90mx20cm) in M 50, Y 90 3,8sec exp.time. Meopta Opemus Color 4 Head, Rodenstock 2,8/50. I usually develop the paper at room temperature which is about 20 and 24 Celsius (sometimes reaches 30 degrees but it happens rarely in the summer) and plain household running water of same temperature. Tolerance of paper and chemicals are excellent even beyond the recommended (high) boarders. I've made prints at 29 Celsius by lessening the developing/fixing times.

Kyprianos

Picture comes from a color negative film (KODAK Profoto 100). It isn't a reversal process. Count my post as O/T.

 

[Anon Ymous]

Eh, never mind PE... you use a kodak 13 safelight filter. It's interesting that you use a 15W bulb though. It's twice the recommended! How long do you keep the light on?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, first, Kyprianos, look at the original post. He is doing reversal processing of the negative paper to get a positive print from a slide! This is a cross process. You are doing a normal process. I hope I clarified things..

Anon;

I use a 15 watt bulb in one and a 7 watt bulb in another and both use WR-13. They are on for the total process time. It presents no problem if they are not directly on the paper. Mine are both pointed away with the 7 W being a bit closer.

PE

 

[David Grenet]

I played with this process early this year and posted results (there was a url link here which no longer exists). I found that (surprisingly) the Fuji CA did work, although unfortunately I have been rather distracted by uni ever since and don't have any more results (I can't remember the last time I had time to spend in the darkroom )

Hope this helps,

David.