Could be you need a little more development. Did you test for film speed and development times for your equipment and process?
Mike
There is only one ISO film speed for any film: the one on the box. Changing what you tell your light meter does not change the ISO film speed at all. It just changes exposure in a blanket fashion. It is used as a technique for compensation for each of our own personal deviations from ISO standards. What you set your light meter to is called an exposure index (EI).
...I'm happy with my results with HP5 but even the best Tri-X proof sheets and prints look a bit dull and flat. Same camera, lens, processing/printing chemicals and technique.
... Could it be that the Tri-X needs to be rated a bit lower when I'm shooting? ... Maybe 250 or 300?
Cheers
Greg
gregmacc said:Could be you need a little more development. Did you test for film speed and development times for your equipment and process?
Mike
Thanks for your reply mike ... No ... I've done no testing ... Wouldn't really know how ... I've just followed the Ilford instructions and been very happy with the results shooting HP5 at 400 ISO. Not so with the Tri-X. Is the "testing" relatively straight forward? Any suggestions as to how to go about it?
Cheers and thanks again
Greg
Is this the book you are referring to, or a different edition?I have tried different ISO values for Tri-X 135 and 120 and I keep coming back to using it at box speed, 400.
Was the lighting flat when you shot the roll of Tri-X? If so, on overcasts days open the lens two stops. I found that suggestion in Wildi's Hasselbad book and that works for me.
Steve
A simple test is to shoot the same picture 3 times. ASA setting is 400.
The first at measured speed and aperture (e.g. f8). The second at 1 exposure value EV lower f5.6 and the third at 1 EV higher e.g. f11.
Try to get a scene with blacks and highlights.
Develop the film as you did before. First check the darks on the negatives which tells you which EV is best, the negative with the most detail.
f8 = 400 asa, f5.6 = 200 asa and f11 = 800 asa.
Then check the chosen negative for the highlights and adapt the development if needed.
Hope I was clear enough with my explanations.
Good luck,
Serge
I have tried different ISO values for Tri-X 135 and 120 and I keep coming back to using it at box speed, 400.
Was the lighting flat when you shot the roll of Tri-X? If so, on overcasts days open the lens two stops. I found that suggestion in Wildi's Hasselbad book and that works for me.
Steve
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