Troubles with film development

[timpppa]

Hello!

I'm new to this board nad also new to developing b&w films and
creating prints.

And please forgive me about my bad english, I'm from Finland...

My first film I developed was Ilford Delta 100 Professional, I used
Ilfosol S (1+9) as developer. I carefully measured the temperature and it was a little bit over 20 degrees. Maybe max 0.5+. Stopper and fixer are from Ilford also. Ok, the first film was good, no problems what so ever.

The second and the next films didn't go that well. After development the films were pale and greyish. They had somekind of "veil" all over them. It think the films were not fully developed, as the space between the frames also had the "veil".

I have now tried to variable developing times, but not gotten any better
results. What else could be wrong?

What are the development times to use with Delta 100 pro and Delta 400 pro with Ilfosol S developer?

Manual that came with the developer says this:

Ilfosol S - Delta 400 1+9 = 9:00 (10:00)
Ilfosol S - Delta 400 1+14 = 14:00

Ilfosol S - Delta 100 1+9 = 6:00
Ilfosol S - Delta 100 1+14 = 10:00

And the pdf file from ilfords www site says: Processing your first black & white film. (Could not find it anymore, site has changed)

Ilfosol S - Delta 400 1+9 = 9:00
Ilfosol S - Delta 400 1+14 = 13:00

For Delta 100 the times are the same.

Please help a fellow in need...

--
Regards,
timppa

 

[Bob F.]

"The second and the next films didn't go that well. After development the films were pale and greyish. They had somekind of "veil" all over them. It think the films were not fully developed, as the space between the frames also had the "veil"."

Sounds very much like insufficient fixing.

Re-fix the films in fresh fixer for 3 minutes. The 0.5C difference in developer temperature will have only made a very slight difference to the end result.

The time honoured way to test your fixer before use is to put a piece of undeveloped leader of the film in to some fixer (you probably clipped some off the film to remove it from the reel and load it in the developing tank) swish it about a bit and see how long it takes to go clear. Fix your film for 2 - 3 times this time (4 -5 times for Delta or Tmax films).


Cheers, Bob.

P.S. Ilford is now at www.ilfordphoto.com - the old site has been taken over by the company that bought the colour and inkjet part of the business

 

[Ian Grant]

If the veiling is between frames and as you say is all over it is nothing to do with the developer, it sounds like incomplete fixation.

Or contamination of the developer with fixer.

Ian

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Sounds as if the fix was depleted or not mixed to film strength, but weaker paper strength, so it used up it`s capacity with the first roll.

Mix some fresh fix and reimerse in new fix to see if it clears. Rewash and dry. The negs will be ok.

Do this in a tray if they are cut apart. Wet for 2 minutes in water first.

If this is a pinkish color, it needs more fixing and rewashing.

 

[timpppa]

If the veiling is between frames and as you say is all over it is nothing to do with the developer, it sounds like incomplete fixation.

But should the film be clear between the frames before stopping/fixing?

 

[timpppa]

Mix some fresh fix and reimerse in new fix to see if it clears. Rewash and dry. The negs will be ok.

Do this in a tray if they are cut apart. Wet for 2 minutes in water first.

If this is a pinkish color, it needs more fixing and rewashing.

Did I understand you correctly, so I can put allready developed negs to fixer and they'll be ok??

 

[Ian Grant]

But should the film be clear between the frames before stopping/fixing?

definately not as there will still be unexposed/undeveloped silver halide present which will be a milly colour.

And yes you can refix, but it might be too late.

Ian

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

But should the film be clear between the frames before stopping/fixing?

No. After developing but Before the film is fully fixed, the spaces between the frames will have a "milky" or veiled appearance.

Take a short piece of film (1 or 2 inches long) and place it in a dish or tray full of fixer (with the room lights on). Watch what happens as the fixer does its work.

 

[timpppa]

Thanks for all of you!

Yes the negs are getting better!! Thank you very much!!

 

[Bob F.]

Always glad to hear a happy ending !

The reason this works is because a lot of protection is given to the film within the first 15 seconds or so in the fixer. So, even if you do under-fix by a lot, you can still go back, even 24 hours later, and recover the negatives (you probably get some fogging, but hopefully not enough to ruin the film).

The good news is that you now know what this looks like so if it happens again you will know what has happened and just put it back in the fixer while you make up a fresh batch. Having been bitten by this mistake myself, I now always test the fixer before each use using the "clearing time" method described above and use the Tetenal fixer test strips that test for silver concentration in the fixer.

Have fun, Bob.

 

[argus]

It's a very common problem known to newborn darkroom people
I had the same problems once and APUG (as usual) solved my problem.

G

 

[dancqu]

Yes the negs are getting better!!
Thank you very much!!

So, after one roll of film your fixer was dead.
How could that be? Have you examined the
problem and found an answer? Dan

 

[timpppa]

So, after one roll of film your fixer was dead.
How could that be? Have you examined the
problem and found an answer? Dan

No, the fixer wasn't dead, but I got mixed up with the fixer bottles and
used more diluted one which was used with paper... My mistake, but
nevertheless now I know if something like that happens again.

Thanks again!