Tri-X pushed -DDX or Rodinal?

Znerken · Oct 14, 2015

Check this full res scan of tri-x pushed to 1600 in Rodinal semi-stand.. The grain here doesn't look "too big to handle", I actually really like the grain!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7528/15752271200_9a32c227c8_o.jpg

Znerken · Oct 14, 2015

blockend said:
Remember 1600 from 800 is only one stop of light, and if you're in dim conditions that's not a lot. Tell us how you get on.

I don't know if it's just Norway or if it's like this everywhere, but even on a summer day pushing to 800 often isn't enough in the shade. Remember, I want max depth of field and a high shutter, which often means F8-16 minimum 1/250. Street photography is often like that

MartinP · Oct 14, 2015

Then you may be better off using a fast film. The only one available to you is Delta3200. Develop it in DDX and see how you get on. Remember that 'pushing' film doesn't change it's sensitivity.

Znerken · Oct 14, 2015

MartinP said:
Then you may be better off using a fast film. The only one available to you is Delta3200. Develop it in DDX and see how you get on.

I may be, but as I said earlier, I like tri-x and I like the look of it. Sometimes I use it at 400, sometimes I use it at 800 and even 1600. This is the point. It's only positives. I can push/pull it and I like the look of the film. People say the negative with pushing tri-x is that you loose details in the black, but I like this as well. That's in fact the look I go for in my photos. This is art, nothing is wrong. I tried t-max for example but immediately missed tri-x. The point is that I want my work to look gritty, because that is how I see the world right now, atleast through my 35mm.

When I use my medium format camera I go for Portra or T-MAX.

Anon Ymous · Oct 14, 2015

Delta3200 is gritty enough, but also one full stop and more faster than Tri-X. Realistically, it's your only choice if you want fast shutter speeds and f/8 to f/16.

zanxion72 · Oct 14, 2015

Rodinal is not a developer for pushing films. It blows hard the highlights and delivers grain as big as boulders. It may be worth trying a stop at most, but not really for anything beyond that.

Znerken · Oct 14, 2015

zanxion72 said:
Rodinal is not a developer for pushing films. It blows hard the highlights and delivers grain as big as boulders. It may be worth trying a stop at most, but not really for anything beyond that.

Even Rodinal 1:50? Now I'm unsure again

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blockend · Oct 14, 2015

Eleven pages and counting! There's a difference between appropriate research and procrastination. In a quick Google I found illustrated articles on pushing Tri-X in Rodinal, stand and agitated, and various Flickr sites dedicated to pushing film, pushing Tri-X, and pushing Tri-X in Rodinal, as well as sites concentrating on black and white grit and grain, all with pictures.

Sooner or later you're going to have to wet some film. Photography is a physical medium that results in pictures, not theories.

Znerken · Oct 14, 2015

blockend said:
Eleven pages and counting! There's a difference between appropriate research and procrastination. In a quick Google I found illustrated articles on pushing Tri-X in Rodinal, stand and agitated, and various Flickr sites dedicated to pushing film, pushing Tri-X, and pushing Tri-X in Rodinal, as well as sites concentrating on black and white grit and grain, all with pictures.

Sooner or later you're going to have to wet some film. Photography is a physical medium that results in pictures, not theories.

I agree, but I want to start with the somewhat correct equipment. I don't want to use a developer which result in bad photos, as some clearly state about Rodinal + tri-x pushed

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baachitraka · Oct 14, 2015

If you want good negatives from any developer you may need to expose them rather good, instead of other way around.

blockend · Oct 14, 2015

In doing a little research I find that Acutol is extinct! Why did no one tell me? I haven't used it for many years but it was my first black and white developer and I retained a sentimental attraction to the stuff.

Sorry, totally off topic. Sob..

haziz · Oct 19, 2015

DDX. And I would do my own processing.

ericdan · Oct 19, 2015

I use Ilford Microphen to push Tri-X to 1600. I like the results but it's too expensive. When I run out of Microphen I'll use Tmax again. I think that's very similar to DDX.

Xmas · Oct 20, 2015

Znerken said:
I agree, but I want to start with the somewhat correct equipment. I don't want to use a developer which result in bad photos, as some clearly state about Rodinal + tri-x pushed

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the web you will get 100 people tell you it don't rain.

Tx in Rodinal 1+100 @20C invert half a dozen times at beginning leave 60 minutes pour out developer will get you full shadow speed gritty grain and contrast suitable for street. If you want more grain agitate at 30 minutes.
HP5+, Kentmere400, or Foma400 are other options.

Expect Highlight compression if you have the yellow ball in sky.

Xmas · Oct 20, 2015

ericdan said:
I use Ilford Microphen to push Tri-X to 1600. I like the results but it's too expensive. When I run out of Microphen I'll use Tmax again. I think that's very similar to DDX.

It is cheaper at 1:2 or 1:3.

But Tmax should be very similar.

Tri-X pushed -DDX or Rodinal?

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