After dredging up the D76 1+3 thread the next few rolls I went with 1+1. For two rolls in a 480ml stainless tank, the charts indicate 10 minutes plus ten percent for the second roll. I tried it and it still doesn"t seem to be enough time. Somewhere in the many threads one member mentioned they had been developing two rolls of Tri-X in a single tank for years using D76 1+1 for 13.5 minutes. This would seem to be about the right amount of time. Any other suggestions?
I already do. I use a light yellow filter and adjust for the one stop filter factor.Try exposing it at EI 200
I already do. I use a light yellow filter and adjust for the one stop filter factor.
After dredging up the D76 1+3 thread the next few rolls I went with 1+1. For two rolls in a 480ml stainless tank, the charts indicate 10 minutes plus ten percent for the second roll. I tried it and it still doesn"t seem to be enough time. Somewhere in the many threads one member mentioned they had been developing two rolls of Tri-X in a single tank for years using D76 1+1 for 13.5 minutes. This would seem to be about the right amount of time. Any other suggestions?
I figured since this combination of Tri-X and D76 has been around for decades there would be a lot of information. I tried the Kodak suggestion of adding 10% more time for two rolls in a 16 ounce tank but it didn't seem to be quite enough. I'll keep experimenting .I know that I have the minority opinion, but with any new film and developer combo you need to test to find your E.I or personal ISO.
I figured since this combination of Tri-X and D76 has been around for decades there would be a lot of information. I tried the Kodak suggestion of adding 10% more time for two rolls in a 16 ounce tank but it didn't seem to be quite enough. I'll keep experimenting .
I just developed a roll of Tri-X. Single roll in a 16 ounce tank FPP-76 1+1, 10 minutes at 20C. It's hard to tell at this point because of two major variables. First was the meter. I normally use a Sekonic 308X in incident mode but this time I wanted to try the Reveni spot meter. Secondly was the camera. The camera is a recently serviced Retina 1 (Type 013). I learned the Compur Rapid shutter speed dial tends to drift from it's setting when adjusting things like focus or cocking the shutter. More than once I set the speed at 1/100th and after the exposure noticed it was now at 1/25th. In the future, the last thing I'll check is the shutter speed. Many of the images on the roll look over exposed, some look spot on. I'll have a better idea when I scan them. Next outing I'll take the Sekonic and the M4-2. That should give me a better baseline.There are other factors to take into account, what camera and lens, it is newer all electronic or an older mechanical, what metering, TTL, hand held, ect. Then do you scan or print, if print, diffusion, condenser, point source? I have many all mechanical cameras with aging meters, for Tmax 400 I range from 800 for my Miranda EE, 400 spot on my Konica T3, 600 for T4, 200 for Minolta 101, and 50 for Argus C3 with GE light meter, that by the way matches my Gossen Luna Lux. The tested ISO seems to fit most developers, D76, Clayton F76+ HC 110, I get a bit more speed with Rodinal. With my more modern cameras, Minolta A mount, 9000, 800si 900xi, 9 and 7 I get pretty close to box speed. Kodak always has a disclaimer that ISO should be tested.
If I could get whoever's making now Kodak D76 in one liter packages, I would buy it.So not D-76.
Something that attempts to emulate D-76.
If I could get whoever's making now Kodak D76 in one liter packages, I would buy it.
Don't get me wrong - I have no problem with anyone choosing one of the competitive products.
It is important though to mention that though when you are using something else, even if it is designed to emulate D-76.
The formula for D-76 is pretty well known and easily made yourself from raw chemicals.
I know that I have the minority opinion, but with any new film and developer combo you need to test to find your E.I or personal ISO.
The formula for D-76 is pretty well known and easily made yourself from raw chemicals.
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