Tri-X/HC-110 Lifespans?

[drmeirschultz]

I have bricks of Kodak Tri-X (Arista Premium 400) that have been stored in my refrigerator since I bought them, which was actually a few months before they expired (12/2014). I'm sure this question has been asked ad nauseam, but if I were to shoot these rolls, would there be a difference in tonal quality than if I were to shoot fresh Tri-X? This question didn't even exist when I originally bought the rolls (I was more interested in experimental photography and didn't care if "quality" results weren't given down the years) but I've recently been involved in traditional darkroom printing for the first time and am now appreciating what's considered "traditional."

Also, on that note, how long does HC-110 keep? I've heard "forever," but I'm concerned as the bottle I bought is going on three years. I'm also weary because the bottle that the chemical came in is being exposed to more air as opposed to when it was full. Is the exposure to air as bad as, say, for C-41 chemicals?

 

[canvassy]

Your film should be good to go. I have some B&W that expired in 2006 and I can't tell it apart from new. B&W typically lasts a while, and 2014 isn't very expired.

I think the HC-110 should be good too, but you might want to clip off a leader and test it before you develop a roll.

 

[MattKing]

For HC-110, "forever" is essentially the right answer. The syrup needs water before it will start reacting with oxygen, so keep the bottle cap on.

Unless your Artists Premium 400 has been exposed to high heat or humidity, it should have lots of high quality life left in it.

As film starts to get older, it starts to gradually lose a bit of sensitivity, lose a bit of contrast, and build some underlying fog.

You have to go a long way before those age related effects stop you from getting high quality results.

To give you some sense of perspective, I recently exposed some film that was over 70 years old and got images.

 

[drmeirschultz]

So I would be fine shooting it at box speed?

 

[MattKing]

So I would be fine shooting it at box speed?

That is where I would start, and most likely I would end up staying there.

EDIT Kodak recommends an EI of 320 for Tri-X and HC-110, so that is what I would use.

 

[drmeirschultz]

That is where I would start, and most likely I would end up staying there.

EDIT Kodak recommends an EI of 320 for Tri-X and HC-110, so that is what I would use.

To that end, since the film hasn't lost any latitude, would dev. charts for the speed I choose to shoot at still be correct/applicable?

 

[MattKing]

To that end, since the film hasn't lost any latitude, would dev. charts for the speed I choose to shoot at still be correct/applicable?

Yes - you should approach those charts the same way you would approach them with fresh film - as the best place to start.

By the way, I'm not sure that "latitude" is the right term. Speed/sensitivity and contrast would be better.

 

[drmeirschultz]

Yes - you should approach those charts the same way you would approach them with fresh film - as the best place to start.

By the way, I'm not sure that "latitude" is the right term. Speed/sensitivity and contrast would be better.

Okay, thanks for the great insight (from both of you)!

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Some photographers are planning to will their bottle of HC-110 to their children.

 

[RattyMouse]

For HC-110, "forever" is essentially the right answer. The syrup needs water before it will start reacting with oxygen, so keep the bottle cap on.

HC-110 begins reacting the moment the seal is broken on the bottle. Purchased new, the syrup is light yellow. My last two bottles of HC-110 turned a very deep red/orange. Even my current bottle, which has only been opened a few times, and has 95% of its original volume has turned very visibly red. If it is water that causes this, it takes only the most minute, microscopic amounts to get started.

Of course, the product works just fine, even when it is deeply red, with bits of solid particles floating in it!