Tri-x 400 and Tmax dev... Post your magic potion..!!!!

[chef_IBK]

I had just one development so far and and not really happy of the result.. I had magenta negative.. 6.30 dev time and 4 min fix, but I messed up with the temperature of the dev it was too cold.. I want to use this film for a b&w project.

Post your magic potion!

 

[:Francis:]

Try fixing a bit longer, and wash until the water isn't pink any more when you tip it out.

Francis

 

[chef_IBK]

thx.!!! I have a Ilford rapid fixer it says that the fixing time is between 2-5 minutes.. I washed it under running water for like 30 minutes...

 

[Andrew Moxom]

TMAX films especially require more fixing in general and longer wash to wash out the anti halation dyes. I fix mine in Ilford Hypam 1:4 for 5 minutes, and wash for 15 minutes (multiple water dumps) There is the very slightest hint of pink no matter how much you wash them. This is normal and not an issue. As others have said, continue washing until no more dye shows up in the wash water and you should be set.

TXP 320 has a similar trait, but is a darker looking neg to start with and appears to have a greyish/pink tinge even when washed thoroughly.

I even tried both films in a hypo clear and washed for 15 minutes afterwards. The finest hint of pink tinge will not go away. From what I've heard, its normal according to Kodak.

 

[fschifano]

You can use TMax developer if you like, but I'd prefer D-76. Start with the development times and temperatures recommended by Kodak and you won't go wrong.

Rather than looking for a magic potion, it sounds to me like you really need to get your process under control.

 

[bdial]

As noted, tmax films need additional fix time to clear the colored dye, but tri-x generally would not. Are you sure your fix is mixed correctly, and not spent? How long did the film require to loose it's milky appearance in the fix? Double that clearing time is how long most films need.

As for magic potions, there are none, just different tastes. Aside from the magenta color, what is it about these negs you don't like? That would help folks in recommending other potions that might suit your taste better.

 

[chef_IBK]

Frank thx I think u rigth... but I´m working on it...Thx to Andrew too..
I just developed an Across 100 had the chemichals stored at 20°C and it work out better no magenta issues... fixed a lil longer...Now I go for a Neopan 400.. and then for a Tmax 100..I have no scanner yet, but soon I will be able to post some pics...

 

[c6h6o3]

The anti-halation dye, which is blue, comes out in the pre-wash. I give my TMax 5 mins. in water before development. The sensitization dye, which is magenta, is the one that's difficult to remove. I fix for about 15 mins. in Ilford rapid fixer and can't see any dye after washing.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

This thread discusses everything you want to AND don't want to know about getting the dye out of Tmax films. Applies to Tri-X too.

Tmax developer is wonderful stuff. Keep using it. Learn it inside out. There is no magic potion, only magical ways of using them.

 

[chef_IBK]

Hi and thx Thomas for the helpfull link!! I just developed the Tmax 100 120 and I had some magenta flare only at the side of the negative like a stripe 2mm wide from the beginning to the end of the roll, but the pics came out preatty ok..no magenta issues there....developed for 7.5 minutes and fixed for 5...Next comes the Neopan 400...keep u updated