Tray volume for B&W paper...

[PVia]

Just getting started here...and was wondering how much volume of developer I need in my trays?

Also, I'm assuming if processing 8x10 paper, I would need 11x14 trays at least...correct?

Much thanks in advance...I scoured the archives and couldn't find an answer!

 

[Ian Grant]

500ml in a 11x14 should be about right.

 

[Stan160]

It's possible to work with trays that are the same size as the paper. I have been processing 8x10 paper in 8x10 trays since I started, but it is easier to use trays which are slightly larger.

Ian

 

[Andy K]

It depends on the size of print I'm developing. Postcards I use small trays and 500ml of chemical in each tray, for 8x10 I use 8x10 trays and still 500ml of chemical in each, for 12x16 I use cat litter trays and 1L of chemical in each to ensure immersion of the print.

 

[Steve Smith]

for 12x16 I use cat litter trays and 1L of chemical in each to ensure immersion of the print.

How does the cat feel about that?

When I started using 12" x 16" I got three seed trays from B&Q which are about 15" x 30" and I usually put between 1.5 and 2 litres in each.

Tip: Get the seed trays without drainage holes!



Steve.

 

[Roger Hicks]

You only need slightly larger: 10x12 for 8x10 paper is plenty, and you can use most 8x10 trays as they are normally made a little oversize to allow handling. 11x14 would be overkill, taking up too much space and needing unnecessarily much developer. Depending on the tray, 500ml to 1 l. or 16 to 32 oz. would be fine. You need it 1/2 inch to 1 inch (25-50mm) deep, so fill whatever trays you buy with water to that depth and measure the volume. You CAN use less (probably even 1/4 inch/10mm) but it might be hard to get even development.

Cheers,

Roger

 

[dancqu]

Just getting started here...and was wondering how
much volume of developer I need in my trays?

My rule for volume in milliliters is 4 times the square inch
measure of the print being processed. That volume is for
single print processing. I could use half again for two print
at same time processing. I employ the single tray processing
method using very dilute toss after one use chemistry. The
method is similar to that used by those who use rotary
methods. A tray rather than a tube is used. Solution
volumes with the tray are somewhat more. Dan

 

[Monophoto]

Like others, I prefer trays slightly larger than the paper. That said, my largest trays are 11x14, and I routinely make 11x14 prints in them.

Typically, I mix about a quart of developer for a session. There are actually two issues here. First, you must have enough developer for a sheet. Usually that means enough to be able to submerge a sheet of paper in the developer. Note that there are techniques for developing prints in drums that use significantly less developer per sheet.

But the second issue is how much paper do you intend to process. In drum processing, small amount of developer can be used (in a Unicolor drum) to process an 8x10 print, but the developer is exhausted after that one sheet and must be used one-shot.

In my case, a quart of developer is typically enough for one printing session - about three hours, producing not more than 20 11x14 prints.

 

[Pinholemaster]

My students use 16x20 trays for 8x10 because more than one student is working at a time. I recommend mixing 3 liters of working solution developer for a 16x20 tray. That way the developer will not get exhausted as quickly, and that multiple prints don't stick together.

For my own work when I had a darkroom, I'd always use a tray size one up from the print size. So an 8x10 needs an 11x14 tray. I like to drown my prints, so I'd use 1 1/2 liters of working solution for an 11x14 tray.

Just my technique. Your system can be different.

 

[Bob F.]

I tend to chuck a litre in and if that is not deep enough, chuck another litre in. I take the high-tech approach as you can tell . At the end I usually bottle it for next time depending on the developer and how long it is likely to be before my next session with that developer.

Have fun, Bob.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hi !
You may use the just minimal amount of chemistry to process your print, however, consider that a print session will last several hours between the first test print and the display grade print.
During that time, the developer will have been oxidized and exhausted by the number and surface of print processed.
So my advice , taken from many workshop I attended, is to use something in the range of 3 to 5 liter of products. This way, the ratio between volume and tray surface will be better preventing a lot of oxidation and the large volume will help you have a consistent result from new products at the start of the session and at the end.
This way, the final print will look the same as the test sheets and have as black the shadows as it must have.
In order to save on chemistry costs, you can re-use the products at the next session by making contact prints for filling or small unimportant RC prints for gift or postcards.
Since I have adopted this mode of operation, my prints have become technically better and it shows.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

My darkroom is small, but large enough that I can fit three 16x20 trays next to eachother. I process both prints and sheet film in these trays so I have to clean them often. The 16x20 might seem excessive for developing 8x10 prints, but I do this for a few reasons:
1. I can develop two or more sheets at the same time (this happens when I re-print something and know what I need to do with the paper in the enlarger, just following notes from last session)
2. It gives me plenty of room to swish the print around. I turn it around 90 degrees during development, so that the developer flows in different directions across the paper. I may be an overkill maniac, but it sure helps even development.
3. I have to have plenty of developer in the tray, which means I can print for 3-4 hours without exhausting the developer (it is very difficult to exhaust standard b&w developer anyway, but I also print using lith developers, and the large volume helps consistency)
4. It allows me to seamlessly go to 11x14 or 12x16 print size in the same session, or 5x7 for that matter.
5. They fit so good on my shelf...
If you're printing 8x10, an 11x14 tray will be absolutely perfect. One liter of developer should be enough for that size tray.
- Thomas

 

[PVia]

Wow, thanks everyone...!

Absolutely a wealth of information here and wonderful tips from everyone...much appreciated!

 

[Flotsam]

If you are using fiber paper, it absorbs a some of the developer and carries it out of the tray when it is moved along so how many prints you plan to make during a session is a consideration in addition to exhaustion. 8x10 trays are generally larger than 8x10 paper. I've never had any trouble using them. I use 24 oz. of tray solution in an 8x10 tray which gives me a decent depth. 32 oz. would be better but I'm kind of a cheapskate.

 

[Photo Engineer]

It depends on whether the prints are FB or RC. I use more developer for FB prints as the paper stock tends to absorb more developer. I use more if I am doing a lot of prints, but usually between 800 ml and 1200 ml in an 8x10 tray for 8x10s.

For Dektol 1:3, I use 300 ml of Dektol stock and 900 ml of water for 1200 ml, or I use 250 ml of Dektol stock and 750 ml of water etc.

I use 1:3 because you can do film and paper both in that solution without too much difficulty. I use 1:3 for 3' or 1:7 for 7' for film in Dektol, and 1:3 for 1' - 2' for paper.

PE

 

[Photo Engineer]

Just as a side comment, at that level, Dektol will work in an open tray with no change for about 12 hours or more. I have had it last for over 24 hours with no significant change. I have designed a developer that will last up to 4x longer under the same conditions.

This also has implications for capacity. The longer a developer lasts in an open tray, the greater the print capacity of the developer.

PE

 

[Les McLean]

I use 12 x 10 trays for 8 x 10 prints with 2 litres of chemistry in each tray.