Steve Sherman
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The test would be more interesting and reveal more if the same developer is used for both methods.
Yes, that's what I thought also. I do know that negatives that I develop in Pyrocat-MC and WD2D+ pyro have very close to the same contrast range. Not exactly the same, but close. Still, it's nice to compare apples to apples when it comes to developing film.
Hoodoo 1 conventional, developed in ABC Pyro 1-1-1-7 for 22 minutes continuos agitation...result 1.53 highlight density above film base plus fog.
22 minutes? ABC 1-1-1-7? Wow. I would expect that to produce welder's goggles. BTW,you didn't specify what film was used.
Steve, is uneven development ever an issue with this process?
Are you able to post scans of the prints?
Interesting Steve, what dilution did you standardize on if I might ask?
Thanks Steve, that is more concentrated than I anticipated it would be. I have a photograph in mind that is gonna require serious suppression of the highlights in order to print easily. I will be using 8x10 fp4 with a lens that is fairly low contrast (159 wolly velostigmat) and will require the smallest f stop of 45 to handle the dof required for the scene. To top it off I envision this to be printed 30"x40" optically so I would like a nice negative with good apparent sharpness to achieve my goals and I will make a few exposures and try your routine with the first negative and see what I get. I appreciate the information!
Regards,
Erik
Steve,
What are your typical stand times when you agitate twice? I assume you go stand/agitate/stand/agitate/stand.
Thanks
Hi Erik,
There is a lot trail and error that has gone into the following.
I first set the extremes of contrast I wanted to control. Those turned out to be 6 stops beyond normal in both directions. I knew that 175 -1-1 was my initial success formula. I went up to 225-1-1 which did not work at all. As you might imagine, with that amount of contrast to control there are a number of dilution / agitation / time combination scenarios. I would also imagine they are many who may dispute that film can record that much contrast.
To answer your question in general terms, my dilution ranges in the area of 150 / 175 - 1.5 - 1. Reducing the B component helps to control chemical fog which only increases printing times without the benefit of increasing contrast, in fact it diminishes contrast slightly.
Of the four components which could impact contrast and density I never change from a temperature of 70 degrees. In my opinion, in order of greatest impact on negative density, dilution is first followed by agitation and time.
Lastly, Reduced Agitation types of film development differ in conventionally held wisdom and therefore maybe deemed eronous by those who do not have first hand experience. In my experience I believe film speed is maximized, near box speed in most cases, mid tone contrast (the most difficult part of the film profile to affect) all while suppressing highlight density by the nature of the process.
Hope this make sense and does not cause a firestorm of nay sayers !
Film can definitely handle this much contrast if you know what you are doing. There is no need to go to exotic developers or stand development. Just a good developer at the right dilution in a tray.
The tonal range in the Royal Tire Factory when Ray McSavaney made his beautiful photographs was 15-18 stops. He was able to control this in a very simple way. One ounce of HC 110 syrup in a gallon of water. The film was developed in this solution by shuffling through the film in one corner of a 16x20 tray. Of course not many people are as patient as he was. His development times with this method ran up to 35 minutes.
By the way if you have never seen this work, look it up.
Film can definitely handle this much contrast if you know what you are doing. There is no need to go to exotic developers or stand development. Just a good developer at the right dilution in a tray.
One thing I have to take issue with though - the "migration" myth. It doesn't happen. This is one of the myths of tanning/staining development.
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