I’ve successfully removed a couple (from a 1 and a 1a) with just careful and tedious insertion of my lens spanner getting 1/2 turn and then doing it again.
Thank you aconbere.
So, you used "patience tool". Always advisable.
As long as the window frame height is shorter than the retaining ring diameter, I suppose you used this kind of curved wrench (with the curvature facing the other way round, of course), didn't you?
View attachment 404825
WARNING!!Thank you aconbere.
So, you used "patience tool". Always advisable.
As long as the window frame height is shorter than the retaining ring diameter, I suppose you used this kind of curved wrench (with the curvature facing the other way round, of course), didn't you?
View attachment 404825
If you print the tool out of metal, that might be OK, but I can tell you after removing several hundred Retina shutters, that the ring is on very tightly in 98% of the cameras, and a 3D printed plastic tool would break long before it shifted the ring.If indeed Chris Sherlock has made available the specifications and/or diagrams of this tool, then one can be duplicated using Freecad and 3D printed. Although i ave not made this particular tool, I HAVE made similar tools. Of course there's a chance that the retaining ring can be so tight that the tool would be broken before loosening. In that case, print another one and try again. You'd be surprised the high success rate I've enjoyed doing this.
I agree with both of the last 2 posts. The likelihood of the tool breaking off the fine teeth that would engage the ring is practically certain. Which is why I would also design the tool so that some metal insert would actually be the engaging teeth to the ring. Such a thing might be fashioned with files and/or grinder. Yes, it would take time and patience. But many is the time when I ended up using al day to make a tool that actually took 2 seconds to get the job done once the tool was ready. Then you'd have a nice tool for doing other cameras. But ten in my own case, I've becone experienced enough in Freecad to have made quite a few highly specialized PLA 3D printed things that proved t be of great use.I've had success in recreating tools using FreeCAD software and a 3D printer, using combination of PLA plastic for the body of the tool, and steel wire for the pins or teeth which are subject to shearing force. Have not yet designed a tool specifically for removing a Retina IIa's shutter retainer ring, but I think a scaled up version of my usual miniature spanner will work, with the cylindrical body of the tool flattened in order to fit through the film gate.
Last December I bought it from Taiwanese seller rework-lens (https://ebay.us/m/lQSHie). Good luck!
WARNING!!
I guarantee you that the tool in the photo above will NOT be suitable for the Retina cameras. The arms and points of the tool (both ends) are far too large and shaped wrong to reach into the narrow space where the ring sits.
There might be spanners of this type by other manufacturers that have small enough points to reach into the narrow ring space, but I know for a fact that the tool shown here will not work. Those spanner arms won't even fit inside the film gate opening
I've had success in recreating tools using FreeCAD software and a 3D printer, using combination of PLA plastic for the body of the tool, and steel wire for the pins or teeth which are subject to shearing force. Have not yet designed a tool specifically for removing a Retina IIa's shutter retainer ring, but I think a scaled up version of my usual miniature spanner will work, with the cylindrical body of the tool flattened in order to fit through the film gate.
Here you go. IIRC, the CAD image is actually for a a tool to fit a Hasselblad 500c, but my miniature spanners are all pretty similar except for spacing of the pins.For me, the great take away is the idea of making tools with 3D printing for specific needs. It sounds pretty logic to add steel wire to reinforce it, but I think this is another level of craftsmanship. Of course I will be happy to see a picture of your miniature spanner.
He's not listing anything similar by now, but sending him an e-mail can´t hurt.
Thank you for your warning. Maybe it could still be a useful tool, but I trust your experience and I'll follow your advice, so tool discarded for Retinas Retaining Ring.
For me, the great take away is the idea of making tools with 3D printing for specific needs. It sounds pretty logic to add steel wire to reinforce it, but I think this is another level of craftsmanship. Of course I will be happy to see a picture of your miniature spanner.
And even with my limited experience only can agree with retina_restoration: Retinas Retaining Rings are pretty tight.
So, I think that just know I have to ways of action.
1) Look retired -or so- repairmen in Madrid and ask them what they used. Not simple, but doable, I think.
2) Find a mechanic with a lathe and ask him to make the tool for me. I have to find who, but maybe in a professional school, ... at any rate August is not the best month for it, however. (I could try to make it with a Dremel, but I know my limits).
Searching in eBay is a due diligence, but I'm afraid that hardly it is going to be successful.
And very open to learn more of making tools with 3D printing, I never thought about it before.
Thank you all for sharing your ideas, definitely I'm learning a lot with this thread.
I missed the tool mentioned above…
Anyway I made two myself, one for each older and newer retinas. A 3D won’t do, those retaining rings and really tight.
I only serviced one Retina. I was able to remove the rear lens with a rubber tool, then I used a lens spanner to remove the retaining ring. As mentioned above my generic spanner was not perfectly suited for the ring so it damaged the notches a little bit. The retaining ring is really thin-walled.
I made a similar tool to remove the threaded retaining ring of the rewind shaft of a Contaflex Super BC. Two pieces from a cutter blade, machined to proper shape with a dremel and abrasive wheel, and glued to a square shaft providing the proper spacing.
The cutter blade steel helps transmit the large force over a small area. The glue is a two-component epoxy formulated for metals; metal parts must be dulled with abrasive paper for good adhesion. Cost me less than $123.50!!
In the case of the rear retaining ring of a folder, possibly an intermediate piece, a cross-member, is required to allow rotation behind the film gate.
Beware of failed attempts at unscrewing the ring: once the two slots are damaged, it becomes even more difficult.
View attachment 404997
Anyway, maybe not for this occasion, but the idea of 3D printer for making tools is not bad at all and can be useful in many other circumstances. Thank you for your images.Here you go. IIRC, the CAD image is actually for a a tool to fit a Hasselblad 500c, but my miniature spanners are all pretty similar except for spacing of the pins.
The tool I showed is still just as good after being used once (I do not have zillions of contaflexes to repair) even if does not look as nice and shiny as the $123.50 tool.The tool I'm looking for has to been useful for ever, not an use and throw away one.
I used to be good with a Dremel, ages agoBernard's solution is a reasonable one. How handy are you with a Dremel tool?
Unless you intend on servicing many more cameras, having the correct tool machined is going to be an expensive option. But I bet you could always sell the tool when you're done with it.
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