Tmax P3200 too dense and low contrast
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- Thread starter ericdan
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My preferred developer for T-Max 3200 has always been HC-110 B. It is pretty grainy, but has contrast that is just right for me in all the right places, somewhat raised contrast but with great highlight and shadow detail. I've made a good number of prints from it as well, I typically use a perfectly neutral grade 2.5
Do you know what component makes HC-110 illegal? That's quite surprising. Also are there alternatives available there such as legacypro-110 or Ilfotec LC? Honestly I imagine stock D-76 would probably work well also, or D-76 1+1 if you want less contrast and more grain
If you want to use a Jobo machine, I advise you to increase the speed slightly.
- If you are working with a manual tank, you must increase the stirring speed, not less than (90 RPM).
- Adding 30 seconds to the development time.
Reducing the temperature by half a degree.
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I recommend using a developer.
Developer FX10 or Calbe49
It may not be available for sale ,,
You have to do it with your hand.
- If you are working with a manual tank, you must increase the stirring speed, not less than (90 RPM).
- Adding 30 seconds to the development time.
Reducing the temperature by half a degree.
_________________________
I recommend using a developer.
Developer FX10 or Calbe49
It may not be available for sale ,,
You have to do it with your hand.
No idea. About 5 years ago they had signs in the store where the bottles were, explaining the situation. I don’t remember what exactly. It just said something like one ingredient cannot be imported anymore.
I found it sharper than D76 1:1
Ditto. develop your first roll exactly the way Kodak tells you to. Adjust from there to suit your needs.
let me clarify. This is not my first roll.
And yes, I've started at the recommended time and kept increasing.
First I tried Tmax developer and hated the look. Then used XTOL. Started at the recommended time and increased. Maybe my xtol is bad?
It’s yellow but I dropped a piece of film in and it still turned black so I used it.
As a long time user of Xtol it should not be yellow. Yes in my experience as well as yours it will still turn an exposed leader black but not just as black. If you have kept any earlier leaders developed when the Xtol was the colour of water you should see the difference in the intensity of the black.
It is likely that this exhausted Xtol will produce low contrast flat negative especially in a film that has only a true sped of about 1000. Some users can store this stuff in the likes of plastic drinks bottles and use it quickly enough to prevent the beginnings of exhaustion but I have found that at my rate of usage only storing in airtight wine bags keeps it long enough. The alternative is storing in 250/300ml glass bottles full to the brim and completely used each time
In about 10 years of using Xtol I can only say that there is nothing wrong with it but once it goes yellow then dump it
pentaxuser
What Pentaxuser said - Xtol should be clear. Xtol and TMax developer should both give you predictable results when used as directed so I'm not sure what's happening. I've used P3200 with both developers and have been happy with the results so maybe try a fresh batch of chemistry.
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