Tmax 100 developed using HC110 ??

[$modelman$]

I would like to take to people useing Tmax 100 and developing in HC110. I've been doing this for awhile and am not that happy with the results, maybe my times are off. I would like to know if anyone out there is using this duo with nice dense negs as a result, and what their formular is.
Thanks,
Bart

 

[Deckled Edge]

While this is no longer my favored combo, I will be developing 11 rolls of Tmax 100 in HC 110 (b) today. Most of my experience has been with 4x5 and 8x10 sheet film developed for gelatin silver prints.
I use an ASA of 80 and develop in trays at 68 F. for:
N-1 (rare) 6.5 min
N 7.5 min
N+1 8.5 min
N+2 10 min

Recent test rolls have shown nice dense (Gr 2 filter) negs at similar times with 30 sec. agitation.

You can start here and modify as desired.
Good luck.

 

[Konical]

Good Morning, Bart,

Back when the T-Max films were first introduced, the T-Max developer was not immediately available. Kodal then suggested D-76, but I recall using HC-110B with T-100 and having fine results. I think my times were approximately those recommended on the Kodak data sheets. While I like the T-Max film/T-Max developer combination for most purposes, I would not hesitate to use HC-110 if necessary, for 35mm, roll film, or sheet film. (My printing is with a condenser enlarger.)

Konical

 

[david b]

try xtol 1+1.

 

[Jim Moore]

try xtol 1+1.

I agree.

 

[modafoto]

8 minutes! I do this rarely as I usually uses Delta 100 in Rodinal 1+50 when shooting ISO 100.

Morten

 

[$modelman$]

Thanks for the advice, Guys, I've been developing in hc110b for 7 min. I will try 8 min. Question, The longer the develope time, the denser the neg ?? or reverse. Should I be shooting 100 tmax at 100 or something less, say 80 iso.
Bart

 

[bmac]

I always shot Tmax 100 roll film at 80 and gave it about 10% more development time than the Kodak Times. This was in a small tank with hand agitation. More development, and more exposure will give you a thicker negative.

 

[$modelman$]

Thats what I thought. I was lucky a year ago and got a Jobo system at an auction for $50.00. Came with everything, drums, bottles graduates etc. What a score. Sooo my temps are pretty accurate. I think thats the most important thing when it comes to good negs. I will try shooting a roll at 80asa and extend the time by 10% (1 min).
Thanks,
Bart

 

[Daniel Quint]

tmax 100 and HC 110

Ive had great success using dilution g for 19min at 68 degrees agitating consistantly for the first minute and then inverting 4 times every minute and taping the container after the inversions. Stop bath 30sec, Fixer for 3min and then wash for 20min.

 

[2F/2F]

It's a good general-purpose combo IMHO. It doesn't make the uniqueness of T-Max really shine. (T-Max developer at 75 F does, and if you don't want the expense, then X-Tol.) But it really isn't all that different from any other standard developer in the grand scheme of things; proper exposure and development are much more of a factor than the developer used. You might like it better at 1:63 with 1.5x to 2x the time.

 

[Lee L]

Not to put a damper on posting any further useful info for current APUG participants, but the original thread ended more than 6 years and 3 months ago, and the OP hasn't checked in for the last 2.5 years. So I wouldn't expect a lot of feedback on suggestions.

Lee

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Lee, I was checking to see how long it was going to be before somebody noticed... I guess 26 minutes.

 

[Dave in Kansas]

It may be old, but it's still fun reading to see what other people like.

 

[2F/2F]

Not to put a damper on posting any further useful info for current APUG participants, but the original thread ended more than 6 years and 3 months ago, and the OP hasn't checked in for the last 2.5 years. So I wouldn't expect a lot of feedback on suggestions.

Lee

Ah, screw you, man! Didn't even notice that.....

At least I don't have a cock 'n' balls sticking through a lens board next to my name!

 

[Lee L]

Lee, I was checking to see how long it was going to be before somebody noticed... I guess 26 minutes.

Actually somewhat faster, as I held off mentioning it, not wanting to beat down anyone for what's really a no-foul, as the new posts will be useful to people other than the OP. I'm monitoring the NE OH Six States show thread that I started late yesterday, so I've been on a lot today. And I picked up new glasses this morning, so I'm really sharp-eyed today. Tomorrow I'll be slow to pick up on stuff again, I promise.

Lee

 

[pbromaghin]

...It doesn't make the uniqueness of T-Max really shine. (T-Max developer at 75 F does, and if you don't want the expense, then X-Tol.)

Are you saying to use t-max at 7 degrees above standard, but still use the standard time? Will this then draw out more detail in the in the brighter areas (of the eventual print, that is)?

 

[2F/2F]

Are you saying to use t-max at 7 degrees above standard, but still use the standard time? Will this then draw out more detail in the in the brighter areas (of the eventual print, that is)?

No, I am saying that the developer is optimized for best results at 75 F. To get "textbook" T-Max results, the matching developer used just as recommended by Kodak is the ticket.

Personally, I like T-Max best when it has its "textbook" qualities. That is why I use the film in the first place. If I didn't want high contrast, lots of room on the straight line, biting sharpness, no grain, incredible detail, etc., I would just use a traditionally-grained film.

But one of its main strengths is also in its ability to be extensively manipulated with development changes, so I am not suggesting that this is all that anyone does by any means.

 

[pbromaghin]

No, I am saying that the developer is optimized for best results at 75 F. To get "textbook" T-Max results, the matching developer used just as recommended by Kodak is the ticket.

Personally, I like T-Max best when it has its "textbook" qualities. That is why I use the film in the first place. If I didn't want high contrast, lots of room on the straight line, biting sharpness, no grain, incredible detail, etc., I would just use a traditionally-grained film.

But one of its main strengths is also in its ability to be extensively manipulated with development changes, so I am not suggesting that this is all that anyone does by any means.

Sorry, but I don't have the charts either memorized or in front of me right now. I thought the standard time and temp was 7-1/2 to 8 minutes at 68f. I guess I have been under-developing.

 

[2F/2F]

Sorry, but I don't have the charts either memorized or in front of me right now. I thought the standard time and temp was 7-1/2 to 8 minutes at 68f. I guess I have been under-developing.

No, you are fine at 68 F. If there is a chart with 68 F on it, then the times given will be correct for 68 F. At 68 F and dilution 1:4, the times should be 7:30 for the 100 and 7:00 for the 400. At 75 F they are 6:15 and 6:00, respectively.

 

[pbromaghin]

But you like the results better at 75/6:15? What do you see that's different? I'm just an ignorant newbie looking for any tips I can get. Your post that I first responded to didn't mention adjusting the time along with the temp, so I thought you were increasing the development.

 

[hpulley]

I like it cold, 8:00 @18C (65F) in HC-110 dilution B, 5s inversions every 30s:

Old nest 2 by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I used to use HC-110 dilution B with TMX and sometimes I got blocked highlights. I found the combination temperamental. HPully done a great job with his shot though. Are there other APUGers that experienced the same problem with the highlights with TMX souped in HC-110 B?

 

[2F/2F]

I used to use HC-110 dilution B with TMX and sometimes I got blocked highlights. I found the combination temperamental. HPully done a great job with his shot though. Are there other APUGers that experienced the same problem with the highlights with TMX souped in HC-110 B?

Yes, but the thing about T-Max is that the information is there, and not compressed all that much like it would be with Plus-X or FP4. Use a burn for easy shapes or a mask for more complicated ones, and you can get incredible detail on both ends of the spectrum (in the general use of the word "spectrum," not meaning anything to do with color).

So, it tends to go a bit against common belief, but t-grained films are actually the best for holding on to detail in the low end and the high end. You just have to be a more involved as a printer to translate this onto the paper.

HC-110 also drops the shadows a tiny bit and makes the mid-tonal transitions a bit more poppin' due to the upswept curve in that area, so I think it is a great look for pictures with a bit of "snap." Not a great combo for shadow and highlight detail addicts, unless you are masking. But I think the mid tones are incredibly more important than detail on the fringes of the tonal range. Also, you can minimize this effect by using it at 1:63 instead of 1:31.

 

[brucemuir]

Dont forget a properly exposed & developed Tmax neg will also look a bit thin compared to most films.