TLR recommendations

[stradibarrius]

I have grown to love MF! I have an RB67 that IMO is too big and heavy to use unless the is a tripod involved. I have seen a lot of walk around type photography with a TLR type camera.
What are some suggestions for a really good lightweight TLR?
I don't know anything about TLR's except that Rollei and Yashica make some good ones so help me with model numbers please.

 

[Ian Grant]

Get a Yashicamat 124 or 124G, they are lighter than Rolleiflex's and Rolleicords, have excellent lenses and can sometimes be found for sensible prices. I have the 124 and it's fun to use, I also have a Rollieflex but it's in mint condition despote being over 40 years old soI prefer the Yashica for general use.

Ian

 

[archphoto]

Same here: if you don't want to change lenses, the 124 or 124G is a great camera, otherwise (more lenses) you are stuck with the Mamiya C-series (C220, C330 and so on ).
Rolleiflex'es are the top, but allso in price, Rolleicord's are good, but more expensive than the 124.

Peter

 

[Jeff Kubach]

Yashicamat 124 and 124G are great. I love my Rollieflex 2.8!

Jeff

 

[Peter De Smidt]

I'd get a Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat, which can often be had for under $200. I'd recommend having the viewing screen replaced with a newer "bright" screen. Marflex, Bill Maxwell, or others could do this for you. Mine has been in my family since 1952. Every decade or so it needs a CLA.

 

[MattKing]

If you have the left-hand trigger grip for your RB67, it will also work with a Mamiya C330.

My C330 with 65mm and 135mm lenses is a nice compact and flexible kit.

Matt

 

[Paul Sorensen]

I agree about the Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat. They are surprisingly affordable, do budget for a CLA, perhaps you won't need it right away, but plan to, it will lessen the pain if you find the camera needs it. I just got one on eBay for $250 and it works great. I am probably going to send it to get a CLA sometime here, but it is working well in the mean time.

My experience with Yashicamat 124Gs has been that there is too much competition for them right now, and their prices have gotten kind of high. You might want to look for a good 124 or even a 12, which cannot take 220 film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Instead of a C330 with a 55mm, 80mm and a 250mm lens which I found to have a high fiddle factor [read: s-l-o-w] go for the Rolleis'. Get a wide angle Rollei TLR, an 80mm Rollei TLR and a telephoto Rollei TLR and wear all three when you go out shooting ====> Instant Bling!

Steve

 

[srs5694]

Since stradibarrius says s/he wants something that's light, I'd rule out a Mamiya C-series camera, unless the interchangeable lens is vitally important. The C-series cameras are very flexible, but they're heavier than most other MF TLRs. I'm not familiar enough with the range of TLRs to offer advice on Yashicamat vs. Rolleiflex vs. Autocord vs. etc. I own both a C220 (heavy and flexible) and the TLR that must be pretty near the opposite extreme: a Lubitel 2. The Lubitel is made mainly of plastic. It's a very simple camera with a 3-element lens that goes noticeably soft in the corners when used wide open, but it does have light weight and compact design (by MF TLR standards) as advantages. It's worth checking out (or, better, the Lubitel 166U, which is an updated design) if you're more concerned with weight than with picture quality.

 

[fmajor]

I *just* (yesterday, 31July) bought my very first MF camera - a Minolta Autocord TLR for the specific purpose of Street photography. I can't give 1st hand recommendations, only offer what i've been reading (non-stop) the last couple weeks. The 75mm Rokkor lens is regarded as sharper than all the various Yashica Mats and rivaling the Rolleicord (or Rolleiflex - can't keep the Rollei models straight) of the 'Tessar' lens formula. I'll get flamed for mixing the Rollei models up, but you'll get the point.

The main consideration with the Minolta Autocord, aside from ensuring it has clear optics, is making certain the focus lever moves smoothly. Evidently the lever will seize in position due to the ancient lubricants. This can obviously be cleared up with a CLA (or even delicate use of lighter fluid), but it's nice to get one that's good to go.

The one i bought needs a new leatherette, but Morgan at cameraleather has the just-right-solution called GripTac. For about $26, my Autocord will have some serious, hardcore street machine armor!!!

I've been borrowing a mint condition Yashica Mat 124 from a friend and it's pretty sweet (coming from 35mm) - that ground-glass viewfinder is amazing! However, i'm a bit of a Minolta/Rokkor buff so as i read the generally raving reviews about the Autocord's Rokkor lens, it became my obvious destination camera (there was also something about having a 'flatter' film plane? than the other TLR cameras). They're definitely easier on the wallet than the Rollei/Hasselblad/Bronica/Mamiya offerings - all around a nice balance.

 

[dynachrome]

An Autocord is a good compromise of optical quality and build quality. I actually liked the lens on my old Yashica Mat 124G a little better than the lens on my Autocord but the 124G is not made very well. By now I have many medium format SLR cameras so I don't use my TLRs as often. If I did get another TLR I would want it to be the last Rolleicord Vb. The model IV has the same high quality Xenar lens and usually costs less than a comparable Vb in similar condition. If you don't mind sticking to one lens and looking at your subjects in a laterally reversed orientation then a Bronica SQ-A or SQ-Ai with a waist level finder, and 80/2.8and a 120 back is fairly light and much more versatile than a TLR.

 

[dpurdy]

the OP said he wants to know the model numbers of the good ones. So For lightest weight and most well made you want a Rolleiflex 3.5F with a 75mm taking lens. If you want just a bit longer lens and a bit faster lens then the 2.8F Rolleiflex. There are a couple of models that are newer than the 2.8F. There is the 2.8 GX Rollei, and there is the newest of all 2.8FX Rollei. You will however get just as good quality image from an older model Rollei. Unless you foresee wanting a prism you can get any Rollei in good shape and the 3.5 lensed ones will be lighter than the 2.8 lensed ones.

 

[cmo]

Was Barry Toogood's website ever mentioned? It's the biggest site about TLRs that I know:

http://www.tlr-cameras.com/

BTW, many people report that a lens hood is very important for the Yashica Mat. I can say from my own experience that this is also true for the Mamiya TLRs. Most TLR lenses are rather short constructions, there is not much protection for the front lens, and they are often prone to flare.

Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex cameras are also a good choice, they were well made, many (but not all) of them have great lenses, and they are much cheaper than Rolleiflexes.

A real insider tip are the tchech Flexaret TLRs. Some of them are really good shooters with remarkable lenses and innovative features. Quality in general is much higher than you would expect from the former eastern hemisphere.

There are also cameras that make good doorstops:
- Shanghai/Seagull, the TLR equivalent to Nokina/Olympia/Nippon/Canomatic toy cameras
- Many GOMZ/Lomo/Lubitel cameras

 

[ic-racer]

Most of the relevant points have already been brought up. I can add that in terms of Yashica 124G current prices, you may recall that in 1975 a NEW 124G was discounted around $110 USD while a NEW Rolleiflex 2.8F was around $700 USD.

So, about a 7:1 ratio.

Currently, 124G USED around $250 and 2.8F USED around $1000, so about 4:1 ratio.

I now own both and to me this suggests that in 1975 the 124G was a fantastic bargain and the Rolleiflex was a little over priced.

 

[Peter De Smidt]

Something like: Dead Link Removed

 

[ic-racer]

Something like: Dead Link Removed

Links to a MX-EVS for $299USD. To me it shows that these older cameras are still good 'users' and hold the value. My brother got a MX-EVS right from the KEH showroom in the 80s for about $150.

One thing that seems to separate an 'antique' TLR from a good user is the presnece of a fresnel screen. That MX-EVS wont have a fresnel and will have an 'antique camera' feel. Putting a fresnel in there will make the view similar to the more modern 124G or "E" and "F" cameras.

 

[Wade D]

I've been using a Yashica D since the mid 70's. Very light, well constructed and a sharp taking lens.

 

[Brac]

You can get a Yashica D for much less than the 124/124G, so it's worth considering, especially if it has the 4 element Yashinon lens.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

As you mention a portrait photography you should really consider one of the Mamiya C models (C330, 220, etc..) as they allow you to change lenses and also focus closer than conventional TLRs.

However - one camera that was not mentioned is Rolleiflex T, which is equipped with a Tessar 75/3.5 lens which really works nicely for portraits (I have this camera too). It is quite a bit cheaper that the 3.5F models, but it gives you the features of Rolleiflex versus Rolleicord. I got mine in a quite nice condition for 200 euro - no CLA was needed (yet). As my main orientation with MF are landscapes, I may end up getting a different camera (more lenses, sharper wide open - like Mamiya 6 or 7) but it would be hard for me to part with the Rolleiflex.

 

[2F/2F]

We sold a nice working Rolleicord Type II at work for $80 on E-Bay. It worked fine. It looked fine. It was a well-built, perfectly usable camera that just had some cosmetic wear. If I had known it would sell for so little, I would have bought it myself. I loved the way it handled and the quality of the thing. They are light, small, convenient, well built...and now they are cheap too! When we decided to sell the thing, better ones listed under completed auctions had gone for only $125 to $175 or so. I would get a user one as your first TLR. I would say a Yashica, but they always seem to be just as much as (or more than) Rolleicords when I find them.

 

[Steve Smith]

My vote would be for a Rolleicord too. I have a V with a Schneider lens.

As I'm not into fast wind on (I only need a speed of about two shots per hour!) I don't miss the combined rewind and shutter cocking crank which a Rolleiflex offers. In fact, I think it's potentially just something extra to go wrong.

However, if you're doing close up portraits, one of the Mamiya TLRs with changeable lenses would probably be more suitable.


Steve.

 

[JRJacobs]

You might look into the Ricoh Diacord, or better yet, the Ricohmatic 225. Very nice build quality, great lens, flat film plane, and a well-baffled interior. After I got my Ricohmatic 225, I sold my Autocord and my Yashicamat.

 

[eli griggs]

I like my 'Export' model Minolta Autocord, no meter, and the Sawyer Mk IV (127) format, which can fit in a coat pocket and has a very nice, fast lens and bright screen. Both have a good reputation for their optics and other than the focus lever on the Minolta, which can break if mishandled, are reliable in the field.

EDIT: The 127 film is limited to two b&W films and you'll want to reload cut down 120/220 stuff for a cost effective solution. I just checked Freestyle and had a small freakout when I saw they have a price of $6.99US each roll of Efke r100. While I have appreciated their stocking the stuff in the past, nothing I know of justifies that sort of pricing for a non-IR B&W film, especially EKFE, even if it is in an 'obsolete' format.

 

[zesbaugh]

I like my 'Export' model Minolta Autocord, no meter, and the Sawyer Mk IV (127) format, which can fit in a coat pocket and has a very nice, fast lens and bright screen. Both have a good reputation for their optics and other than the focus lever on the Minolta, which can break if mishandled, are reliable in the field.

EDIT: The 127 film is limited to two b&W films and you'll want to reload cut down 120/220 stuff for a cost effective solution. I just checked Freestyle and had a small freakout when I saw they have a price of $6.99US each roll of Efke r100. While I have appreciated their stocking the stuff in the past, nothing I know of justifies that sort of pricing for a non-IR B&W film, especially EKFE, even if it is in an 'obsolete' format.

If 127 can be considered MF, I would heartily suggest Yashica 44LM, great little camera and built to last (Selenium light meter on mine still working !accurately!, though must have been in closet the last 50 years).

B&H has Efke r100 for just under $5, still high but hasn't hit stratospheric levels.

 

[ntenny]

Another vote for the Rolleicord. My first "real" (non-110) camera was a Rolleicord III, which I still run film through pretty regularly; the Tessar/Xenar lenses obviously aren't the equal of the Planar/Xenotar lenses in a Rolleiflex, but the difference in real-world use is *far* less than the cost and reputation differentials would suggest.

That said, the difference between the 'cord and the Yashica TLRs and some of the others mentioned is probably down to taste more than anything else. They're clearly all good enough cameras that people are doing terrific work with them.

-NT