TLR for a Trip - Rolleiflex, Autocord, etc?

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ntenny

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But even with that cleared up I still am not sure I understand it. I certainly appreciate that there are differences between a Planar/Xenotar or a Tessar/Xenar lens but, having used both myself, I personally prefer the look of the Tessar. I think people are drawn in by the numbers rather than the image quality.

You may be right---there's certainly a name cachet to the Planar. And I have to admit, I just went and looked at my 'flex (Planar) and 'cord (Xenar) images on Flickr in adjacent windows, and the differences were less than I expected; but the Planar does that "dead sharp and clinical" thing, and when that works, man, it really works. There a handful of images in each group that simply couldn't have been taken with the other lens.

Conclusion: Get one of everything! :smile:

-NT
 

Ian Grant

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But even with that cleared up I still am not sure I understand it. I certainly appreciate that there are differences between a Planar/Xenotar or a Tessar/Xenar lens but, having used both myself, I personally prefer the look of the Tessar. I think people are drawn in by the numbers rather than the image quality.

In terms of image quality between the TLRs I have the Yashinon is OK I've some great images from it, the Opton Tessar is better and the Ross Xpres on my Microcord and the Xenotar on my 3.5E out perform the first two. The Xpres is the surprise it's an amazingly good lens.

Ian
 

cliveh

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How about a Rolleicord Vb?
 

Ian Grant

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A Vb is a nice camera, you need to decide if the knob wind rather than a lever wind is for you though, I do prefer the Yashicamat, Automat and 3.5E in that respect compared to my Microcord (essentially a British Rolleicord). However a Vb is capable og excellent results and they can be found for less than Rolleiflexes.

Ian
 

Pioneer

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I totally agree with buying one of each. :D

Besides, they are smaller than many 35mm cameras and can produce photographs that will outdo 35mm photos hands down, even with a poor little Novar triplet, which by the way is amazingly good when stopped down.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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I think TheFlyingCamera was referring to those pesky knurled rings around the shutter and aperture controls that you have to push in while turning the said controls.

I have a 2.8C with Xenar and I love it but if I could change one thing it would be to remove those rings around the shutter and aperture controls and the shutter depress lock which always seems to be locked even though I never set it locked.

Exactly what I was talking about. Those little push-tabs behind the wheels are infuriating when you're trying to do something quickly. That and needing to remember to change the shutter in and out of 1/500th when it is not cocked at risk of breaking the shutter.
 

baachitraka

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No matter what TLR you have, you may find it little difficult to change the film. May need a bench if you are on the street. ;-)

Lens: Xenars are excellent when stopped down say from f/8-. My target print size is 16x16cm and they are biting sharp.

Regarding weight: I may prefer something light to carry all day. Something lighter than OM-1n+Zuiko 28mm f/3.5(was carrying this during last trip to Italy)

Convenience: My personal choice would be that focus and winding lever on right-hand side but I do not have one :-(

Accessories: For me Bay I accessories are cheaper to get. I got Rolleinar I and II for Euro 40 and couple of filters for the same amount.

Condition of the camera: This is most important. Get one which is ready to shoot. I got my Rolleicord for Euro 87 and spend another Euro 220 for CLA.

* If you are travelling to Southern Europe you may have chance to get blue sky so Yellow filter and loads of film
 

TheFlyingCamera

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No matter what TLR you have, you may find it little difficult to change the film. May need a bench if you are on the street. ;-)


Convenience: My personal choice would be that focus and winding lever on right-hand side but I do not have one :-(


Condition of the camera: This is most important. Get one which is ready to shoot. I got my Rolleicord for Euro 87 and spend another Euro 220 for CLA.

The film changing gets easier with practice. After 50+ rolls, you get the hang of loading from your hip, although when possible, I do prefer a flat surface.

There is only one that I know of that had both focusing and film advance knobs on the right side - they were combined into a single knob with different levels to it. I forget the make off the top of my head, but they're rather rare beasts and although they are similar in spec to a Yashicamat if I recall correctly, they cost more like a Rollei 2.8. I wouldn't get one as a first TLR or a prime body, in part because of the rarity. If a Rollei breaks on the road, there is a chance you can get it fixed locally. With one of those, no such luck.

I absolutely agree about the condition comment - buy the best that you can, but still spend as if it requires a CLA, because it probably will.
 

Bob Marvin

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A Rolleiflex "Automat" model, like my 2.8E, is VERY easy to load in the field; far easier than any other medium format camera I own. I just hang it backwards back facing out) around my neck, with no need to put it down on a flat surface.
 

baachitraka

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Rolleicord V, not Va or Vb have focus and advance knob on right-hand side.
 

ntenny

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The film changing gets easier with practice. After 50+ rolls, you get the hang of loading from your hip, although when possible, I do prefer a flat surface.

It's much easier with the hinged-back models than with those where the back comes off! The ones where you have to feed the paper through a feeler roll (most Rolleiflexen, I believe) require an extra saving throw against your dexterity, too. It can be done but it's always a little perilous-feeling.

There is only one that I know of that had both focusing and film advance knobs on the right side - they were combined into a single knob with different levels to it.

Some of the 'cords---the III and V for sure---have both on the right side. (I'm not sure there are any with lever advance and right-side focus, though.)

I've never had an Autocord with an intact focusing lever, but it seems like a good design. Support the camera from below, with whichever hand you like, and focus with a finger around the front.

-NT
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Clarification- I was thinking of crank wind film advance and focus on the same side. You are correct that there are multiple cameras that have knob wind and focus on the right side. I'll poke around when I get home and find out what model of TLR it was that has the crank film advance and focus knob combined in one.
 

Trask

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One interesting thing you can do with a Rollei having a removable focusing hood is to buy an adapter from Germany that allows you to mount a Hasselblad chimney viewer onto the Rollei -- so much clearer than using the regular hood, though obviously not as compact.

Check out this thread I started back in 2010 for more info: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 

dpurdy

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I found a surprisingly cheap hasselblad chimney on ebay and bought it without the adapter for my Rollei. I found I can make it quite secure on top with merely a rubber band. Too dark for me and I prefer a prism but definitely worth the very little I paid for it.
Dennis
 

piu58

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> No matter what TLR you have, you may find it little difficult to change the film. May need a bench if you are on the street. ;-)


I change films while walking (Rolleiflex 3,5F).
 

Pioneer

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> No matter what TLR you have, you may find it little difficult to change the film. May need a bench if you are on the street. ;-)


I change films while walking (Rolleiflex 3,5F).

It is an observed fact that I cannot chew gum and walk at the same time. As a result I avoid trying to load film in a TLR while walking, I prefer to stand still. However, I have not needed a bench to do it in a long time. :smile:
 
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corposant

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Since it seems like Rolleiflexes are somewhat sparsely available here on the classifieds, does anybody have any suggestions for finding one elsewhere?
 
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My first go-to site for gear is KEH.com.
They are most reliable and their grading system conservative. Their "BGN" seems to equal average or better -often much better.
 

Pioneer

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I have had relatively good luck with KEH, with just one caveat. Their grading system seems to be more heavily influenced by cosmetic appearance rather than operational issues. That usually works great for lenses; not always so good for cameras. I have had the misfortune to pick up a couple gorgeous looking cameras that just did not work worth a darn. Of course I still use them a lot because you cannot beat their return policy. And they do repairs as well so if you really like the camera they will fix the problems, or try to, at no cost to you.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Check all the usual suspects- KEH, B&H, Adorama, and Ebay. Ebay will have the widest selection, but of course caveat emptor applies. You have the greatest risk on Ebay but also the greatest potential for value - people will incorrectly describe things to your advantage if you know what you're looking for, to your disadvantage if you don't. It isn't as much of a crap shoot as it used to be, because they do have buyer protection policies in place. I bought a 2.8C that was listed as having faint marks on the taking lens, but otherwise in good operating order. The pictures posted suggested that the "marks" were just some mild coating loss like on the camera I already had, so I bought it. When I received it, the marks looked more like an angle grinder had done a mating dance with the front element, and it had very clear and obvious functionality issues. Proving the point that the seller had not tested the camera was the 30+ year old roll of C-22 process color film in the camera. Ebay buyer protection kicked in and did its job and I was able to return the camera for a full refund. Point being, buying on eBay is not as risky as it used to be, but you still need to be very careful. On the upside, when I did find a second 2.8E on Ebay, in much better condition, I got it for $600, a good 30%+ cheaper than I would have had to pay at KEH for the same item.
 

JPD

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I think I'm going to use my Rolleiflex Automat from 1939 with uncoated Tessar this summer. It's 300 grams lighter than my 3,5 F with Planar (920 vs 1220 grams) and much easier to carry around.

A Rolleicord Vb with 3,5 Xenar and bright screen is also light, 940g.

The Tessar/Xenar, Planar/Xenotar, or even Triotar, are all fine lenses. I've learned to know them, so I use the Rollei I like at the moment.
 
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