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ColColt

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I guess I mixed up 5 gal of Xtol back in May all for naught. I think I used about 1200ml of it and the rest has been corked up in brown glass bottles since then. I'd say it's a bit old now to trust processing.

Why didn't I use it? Multiple reasons but foremost has been the condition of my dog who has paralyzed rear legs due to progressive DM and developed separation anxiety when I'm not around. May as well dump what's left now as seven months is pushing your luck a bit.
 
I did fill them as far as possible but I figured after seven months it would be kaput anyway. I'll try testing it but anything important wold make me nervous to use it. Of course, not much I shoot anymore is important that I cant go back and do it again.
 
You have used about a quarter of it.

How much will it cost you to replace the other three quarters of it? $8.00??

I'm all for minimizing waste, but having a good quantity of high quality developer available for immediate use on your shelf for over 200 days has to have some value.

If you had $8.00 of milk go past its best before date, would your reaction be different.

How about $8.00 of beer :smile:?
 
Beer goes bad? Oh, ya, I've had some, or maybe, it was bad when it was made.
I use clear glass bottles, but they are kept in the darkroom cabinet, so not exposed to light much. I've had six month old Microphen that still works like new. If it starts to turn brown, however, out it goes.
 
Cost benefit analysis is $8.00 of questionable chemicals vs. $5.00 of film, the time you spent shooting it, and the possibility of potentially good photographs being ruined. I know which way I would vote.
 
If milk passes the smell test it gets used. Don't drink beer but I still have about 5-6 six packs of World's Fair beer now 34 years old! I'll bet it's pretty rank by now.
 
They sold different colors from orange to blue, black and gold, green, red, etc. I doubt it would be worth much.
 
I have to wonder what that stuff would taste like after all these years...probably smoke if you pulled a tab.
 
I have 2 mint boxes of Neofin blue and red developer (five sealed bottles in each box) that expired in 1958.:smile:
 
I have 2 mint boxes of Neofin blue and red developer (five sealed bottles in each box) that expired in 1958.:smile:

I still have a few ampoules ( not bottles, but the sealed glass containers, like large versions of the old medical injection thingies where you break off the neck to open) which must be from the early 1970's....tried one a year or two ago and it was fine. (I also have a similar Neofin Color kit from the early 1980's, but can't find out if it's for C-22 film or the original Agfacolor negative....any ideas welcome ? )
 
I just finished off a batch of Xtol I mixed in 2014 and it still worked! Wasn't even in a full bottle, but it was kept cool, as my basement is a quite consistent 15C.

If you have film to run, I would test it before dumping it.
 
I have a roll of 120 exposed to white light that I use to perform clip tests of both my xtol and fix. Just snip a 1 inch strip and test. Really cheap repurposing of a botched roll :smile:
 
How long does it take the film test to turn black...15 seconds, a minute? How long is too long to be considered good?
 
It should have obvious darkening within a minute or so, but could take longer to get to maximum density.
 
I'm away from my notes for the weekend, but I can check when I'm back home at the beginning of the week. As I recall, what BDial said is fairly close.
 
Very good-thanks. I've never tested it before so, I wasn't sure.
 
Be careful. I blissfully continued processing after clip testing some dubious XTOL and got a near clear roll of film. My mistake was that I accepted mere darkening as good. Brown isn't good enough. It must go black. For that, I give it roughly the amount of time that I'll be processing the film.
 
I would never take chances with important work. Having said that I make up XTOL and decant into smaller bottles, absolutely full. I have used year old XTOL without any problem on more than one occasion. It's always kept cool and dark. I have a system that works for me.
If in doubt make new. Mike
 
Beer goes bad? Oh, ya, I've had some, or maybe, it was bad when it was made.
I use clear glass bottles, but they are kept in the darkroom cabinet, so not exposed to light much. I've had six month old Microphen that still works like new. If it starts to turn brown, however, out it goes.

I have heard that developer should be stored in amber/brown colored bottles, preferably glass as there probably is lead in the clear glass bottles which could possibly affect the chemicals of the developer. Have any of you heard of this? I have always stored developer in amber or brown glass bottles. However, I have always had a darkroom motto: "when in doubt, throw it out". The cost of chemicals is not as much as the cost of film, cost of transportation to make the exposures nor is the worry about the chemicals worth it.........Regards!
 
I have heard that developer should be stored in amber/brown colored bottles, preferably glass as there probably is lead in the clear glass bottles which could possibly affect the chemicals of the developer. Have any of you heard of this? I have always stored developer in amber or brown glass bottles. However, I have always had a darkroom motto: "when in doubt, throw it out". The cost of chemicals is not as much as the cost of film, cost of transportation to make the exposures nor is the worry about the chemicals worth it.........Regards!
I think that the amount of lead, if there is any at all, in clear bottles would be so small that it would have zero chance of throwing off your developer. Heck, if you live in Michigan you probably drink more lead via your local drinking water. Plus, I can't believe the EPA or FDA would be allowing us to drink out of any clear glass bottle containing lead. I believe the Boston brown bottle vs clear glass has more to do with some chemicals altering their makeup due to light exposure instead of lead exposure. I could be wrong and if I am it shouldn't take long for somebody here to correct me.
 
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