Domin
Member
I've been using Tetenal 2,5l amateur kit. It has some good sides - short development times and smells better than regular RA chemistry. However it's rather expensive and blix concentrate sometimes goes bad before you buy it.
I've just switched to Tetenal monoline chemistry as its what I can get easily and cheap from a small local lab.
Lately I've been doing abstract series on slightly fogged paper so the process didn't have to be strictly correct as long as it was mostly consistent.
I used CD at replenisher strength, 90s @28-30C (that was my room temperature last week) as it gave decent black on test strips exposed to room light.
Now I'm bit confused how do I test that dilution - temp - dev time is correct?
I don't think that I have a print that I can use as reference. I have some prints done at a pro lab with some kodak q-certificates but again they all are from xprocessed slides.
I've just switched to Tetenal monoline chemistry as its what I can get easily and cheap from a small local lab.
Lately I've been doing abstract series on slightly fogged paper so the process didn't have to be strictly correct as long as it was mostly consistent.
I used CD at replenisher strength, 90s @28-30C (that was my room temperature last week) as it gave decent black on test strips exposed to room light.
Now I'm bit confused how do I test that dilution - temp - dev time is correct?
I don't think that I have a print that I can use as reference. I have some prints done at a pro lab with some kodak q-certificates but again they all are from xprocessed slides.