Time and Mix in Drum Roller

[bags27]

My use of drum development may be less consistent than my usual hand development. I've been using the roller below. I've ballparked it at 65% of the normal developer-water mix and 85% of the time. Any suggestions? thanks!

 

[Rob Skeoch]

I haven't used one for years but I used one for 8x10 for a long time. I used the same chemical mix but about 65% of the time. You might want to do some testing, which i know is a pain.

 

[bags27]

Thanks, Rob! That's a good thought.

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

Ive used a Simmard version of this, I guess more or less the same. As chemical mix, I have not deviated from the standard, in fact I have used full volume rather than reduced volume, ie I use Paterson tanks, so 2 roll 35mm film requires 500ml, so I have used that and for 3 reel tank, I have used 1 litre solution.

Time was, I have deducted 15% as this is considered constant agitation so used 85% of quoted times.

As results, mine were ok, normal development, and I have printed on Grade 3 paper. The only thing I wish I have is a tank which doesn't leak so I can use this roller at least for all of my BW films. Sadly cannot use for C41 as it is not temperature controlled.

 

[bags27]

Thanks, Fatih! Another again, not reducing chemicals, but reducing time.

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

Thanks, Fatih! Another again, not reducing chemicals, but reducing time.

Yes, also I have checked 1/2 of required chemistry in the tank by putting a cling film instead of the lid and put a elastic band around to make leak tight to see if the center column is fully submerged and it seemed fine but I couldnt risk it

 

[koraks]

I've ballparked it at 65% of the normal developer-water mix and 85% of the time.

Sounds like a good starting point. Give it a go.

 

[xkaes]

You don't actually say what you are developing or how (in detail), but whatever it is -- film or paper -- you need to run some simple tests to determine: time, temp, dilution, speed, etc. What someone else uses with their "film or paper" and gear might work for you, but might not.

 

[bags27]

You don't actually say what you are developing or how (in detail), but whatever it is -- film or paper -- you need to run some simple tests to determine: time, temp, dilution, speed, etc. What someone else uses with their "film or paper" and gear might work for you, but might not.

True, and thanks. Most recently developing 2 rolls of 120 Tri-X with pyrocat HD. 65ml solution (6.5 of both A and B in 650 ml water).

 

[xkaes]

What kind of drum are you using? I develop film in my drums, but only sheet film -- with very little developer. I assume you are using reels of some sort. I would think that the film closer to the perimeter of the drum would get more agitation than film closer to the center -- but I'm no expert in this area. I don't see how you are developing two rolls of 120 film with only 65ml of fluids.

 

[Paul Howell]

I use my Unicolor tank and roller when developing more than 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120, I have developed 4X5 sheet film in a 5X7 paper tank. I use longish development time, with HC 110 Dilution, D76 1:1, or Clayton F76 1:15. I have always gone -20% of my standard tank times with good results. I have not used it when using DK 50 or Acufine, developments are just too short for my liking, not to say 2 mints for Foma 100 will not work, just get nervous about uneven development at such short times.

 

[mshchem]

I use Kodak XTOL and the recommended times for roller processing

 

[Rick A]

I use mine with LF film, 250ml per run at 80% of listed time for normal, I have my preferences for different films depending on SBR and printing process I intend to use.
I run four sheets of 4x5, or two 5x7's, or one 8x10 per run.

 

[Kilgallb]

A guy from Ilford told me to reduce time by 15% using ID11.

I was developing 4x5 Delta 100 in a Unicolor drum on the base the OP showed. I use 125ml of chemical.

 

[choiliefan]

I always presoak sheet film and use standard 1:1 D76 times in Cibachrome tanks.
I recently laid hands upon a Unicolor tank and base but have yet to compare. One thing I particularly like about the Ciba drums is the smooth inner surface.

 

[Paul Howell]

Not sure about ILford as I don't much of it, today I processed 4 rolls of Astria Pro 100, I used time for Foma 100, HC 110 B, reduced time by 20%, exposure when m atched with Minolta 800si look spot on. I don't know who makes Arstia Pro, box says made in Germany so limited number of possible manufactors. Not sure how much difference -20 vs -15% would make, perhaps in the highlights.

 

[Nokton48]

I have four Unicolor 8x10 print drums, the rubber piece that separates 4x5 sheets is ALWAYS missing. I went to Harbor Freight, and bought a cheap black rubber bungee cord, and used a carpet knife to chop it up to fit the interior ribs tightly. These work as well as the original. I use regular strength developer, reducing 10%. I liked to use PMK+ back then, DON"T WASH PMK+ IN THE DRUM, the ribs keep the staining process from happening in the wash (not good), so the film has rib marks (missing the stain) otherwise it works great. Starting to use it again for 8x10's and 5x7's.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have four Unicolor 8x10 print drums, the rubber piece that separates 4x5 sheets is ALWAYS missing. I went to Harbor Freight, and bought a cheap black rubber bungee cord, and used a carpet knife to chop it up to fit the interior ribs tightly. These work as well as the original. I use regular strength developer, reducing 10%. I liked to use PMK+ back then, DON"T WASH PMK+ IN THE DRUM, the ribs keep the staining process from happening in the wash (not good), so the film has rib marks (missing the stain) otherwise it works great. Starting to use it again for 8x10's and 5x7's.

The gaskets are still in good shape? The top gasket for the fill end of my unicolor film drum is long gone, I just used black silicon adhesive to glue the top on, I have a couple of bottom plungers where the gaskets for the adjustable plunger that have fallen apart, have not an O seal to fit. I have one working plunger for 3 tanks. My Beslier and Cibachrome prints drums do not have seals so they work fine, my unicolor print drums not so much.

 

[Melvin J Bramley]

I use Kodak XTOL and the recommended times for roller processing

I found that works for me too.
However with diluted ID11 I reduce the time by 15% with good results.
I use a Patterson tank on a Uniroller base.

 

[Kilgallb]

For my unicolor drums I bought a sheet of head gasket material from an auto supply place and cut them to the same shape as the leaky original gasket. Works well, no leaks.

 

[Paul Howell]

For my unicolor drums I bought a sheet of head gasket material from an auto supply place and cut them to the same shape as the leaky original gasket. Works well, no leaks.

I tried that, might be that I could not get the shap right, I made a template from an old gasket, maybe the gasket material I bought was too thin.

 

[Kilgallb]

The secret is to not make the diameter too large. If too large he material kinks and leaks.

 

[Rick A]

The secret is to not make the diameter too large. If too large he material kinks and leaks.

True, plus never store your drums with the cap on.