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TIFFEN FILTERS

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Yes, but for my Hasselblads I prefer Hasselblad, B+W, Heliopan but I do have Tiffen for the types that the others do not make.
 
Good question. Ive seen still photography tests that suggest, in general, they are of not great. On the other hand they are perhaps the leading supplier of filters to the motion picture industry where tens of millions of $ are being spent to capture the image. I think they are good enough.
 
It’s the ring, I dislike the aluminum rings and their general feeling.

B+W filters have a brass ring and they are so smooth and velvety. It’s a big difference.

Still, I use a few Tiffen and I can’t complain about the optical quality. It’s still Pro stuff, after all.
 
i prefer B+W, then Hoya and then tiffen. LIke mentioned above, the brass ring makes a big difference in the cold weather. otherwise, I cant remember a photo I lost because of any of the above brand of filters. I avoid the generic ones as I have seen issues with them
 
Are TIFFEN filters of good quality?
To quote an old expression:'they are good enough for government work". I am satisfied with the ones I own. The last one I bought is a yellow drop-in filter for B&W in a Hassleblad/Zeiss 55mm Distagon C lens............Regards!
 
I believe the expression GOOD ENOUGH FOR GOVERNMENT WORK was a reference to inferior production.
 
Tiffen has the unique construction of using actual Kodak gels sandwiched between 2 pieces of flat glass. So if you want the best in color filtration, these are the way to go, since the Kodak gels are generally stronger/better/etc., than the dyed glass of other companies. What you lose though is the high-end AR coatings from the latest B+W filters, brass rings, etc.
 
I neglected to cite that I shoot mostly black and white and my interest is in filters for that purpose.
 
I believe the expression GOOD ENOUGH FOR GOVERNMENT WORK was a reference to inferior production.
I've always understood it to mean serviceable, gets the job done, but unlikely to be the best around.
 
Tiffen has the unique construction of using actual Kodak gels sandwiched between 2 pieces of flat glass. So if you want the best in color filtration, these are the way to go, since the Kodak gels are generally stronger/better/etc., than the dyed glass of other companies. What you lose though is the high-end AR coatings from the latest B+W filters, brass rings, etc.

Yes, exact. No dyes.
I’ve had a Hoya filter with a bad dye job. Half a side of the orange filter was noticeably lighter once the filter would be placed on a white paper.

I’ve also had a (supposedly) fine pair of Bausch&Lomb sunglasses that had its coating suddenly starting to flake off. This is where I understood that the Tiffen sandwitched filter is a much bette proposition in general.

Only if they changed for a Brass ring and more exotic coating, they’d be on top.
 
I've always understood it to mean serviceable, gets the job done, but unlikely to be the best around.
serviceable, gets the job done, but unlikely to be the best possible.
 
Does aluminum vs brass make much of a difference with bayonet mount filters?

I greatly prefer the brass. When I use the Tiffen filters on the Hasselblad, they are screwed into a brass 67mm to B60 filter adapter.
 
The nice thing about brass is that it doesn't bind up with aluminum much if at all. Aluminum filter to aluminum filter mount can sometimes bind (threads get stuck).
 
Tiffen has the unique construction of using actual Kodak gels sandwiched between 2 pieces of flat glass. So if you want the best in color filtration, these are the way to go, since the Kodak gels are generally stronger/better/etc., than the dyed glass of other companies. What you lose though is the high-end AR coatings from the latest B+W filters, brass rings, etc.

This is not unique but was (and still is) applied in Europe too, but typically for filters for which there was (is) no coloured glass eqivalent.

I do not consider these laminated filters superior, as these

-) may delaminate
-) likely all fade (glass does not fade)
-) may not have parallel panes (panes are just glued together, whereas coloured glass filters being ground for parallelity)
 
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serviceable, gets the job done, but unlikely to be the best possible.

Interesting - so I'd always heard until I ran into a historian who claimed that the phrase arose during the Civil War, when the government had inspectors on-site at plants producing gear for army use in order to ensure that products met strict contractual standards. Thus "good enough for government work" then was meant to indicate a consistent standard of quality and reliability, as opposed to the often hit-or-miss quality of commercial products of the time. Or so he claimed.

For the phrase "good enough for rock n' roll" I've heard used to mean "minimum standards met but not greater".

Ooops! Sorry; back to filters...
 
Interesting - so I'd always heard until I ran into a historian who claimed that the phrase arose during the Civil War, when the government had inspectors on-site at plants producing gear for army use in order to ensure that products met strict contractual standards. Thus "good enough for government work" then was meant to indicate a consistent standard of quality and reliability, as opposed to the often hit-or-miss quality of commercial products of the time. Or so he claimed.

For the phrase "good enough for rock n' roll" I've heard used to mean "minimum standards met but not greater".

Ooops! Sorry; back to filters...
Standards and specifications formally document the “good enough” processes and criteria... as opposed to the absolute epitome of theoretical perfection. I believe that was true then as now.

... and back to filters... in my lifetime of photography I’ve found aluminum filter rings, when not otherwise damaged or used in damaged lens threads to be “good enough for government work”. Brass is better, but how much better is a matter of experience and religious convictions.
 
Brass also is more heavy, something that may count whe schlepping around a dozen filters.
 
Regards the problem with aluminum filter rings tending to bind when in contact with with other aluminum threads. Is there a grease or other lubricant that can be sparingly applied to the threads to ensure smooth engagement without binding. Thinking of a wipe of the 'Dri-lube' type sticks and them wipe with a clean cloth?
 
Think of:

Graphite or Molybdeniumsulfide powders
Teflon spray applied by brush

Typically all filterrings are not blank metal but lacquered, maybe anodized.
 
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