One reason why I kept and used a number of soft-focus filters, just to be on the safe side. I also rigged up a couple of 49mm filters, sans glass, and kept a piece of nylon hose stretched, for a soft-focus filter. Never wanted to go "dreamy", just to kill a few crow's feet and smile lines.I've used the 180mm Super for years and have been very happy with it. Great for head & shoulders portraits although perhaps a little too sharp to be flattering!
Quite simple lenses to work on, do not be afraid of them.I've frequently read that the Black/Super Black versions were "Far superior" to the earlier chrome versions, but I've yet to see a real solid comparison showing off an objective improvement from an optical stand point.
Can anyone comment on serviceability of the models? [I have a pair of 180mm chromes that I need to dig into at some point to swap shutter blades around to get a single working lens. Have been debating if it is worth the effort compared to just finding a working 180 black]
Having used a chrome and a newer style lens, I will say that the models with both controls and their scales showing on the 'left side' of the lens to be far nicer to work with than the older model with the timing scale shown on the user's left and aperture on your right. - Simply saves tilting the camera back and forth to double check settings before taking a photo.
Interesting - is the perfect Mamiya RB (RZ) 180mm lens of the same design as Mamiya TLR 180 mm Super ?I personally rank the 180mm Super among the best lenses ever (all times, all makes, all formats). It is definitely the "signature" lens for the Mamiya TLR system and by far the first that comes to mind when one talks about the highlights of this system. Optically it was completely redesigned in order to get better performance and also a much shorter barrel, as can be seen in this comparison picture.
This of course doesn't necessarily mean that the "standard" 180mm is not a good lens, but I never heard anyone regretting having purchased a 180mm Super.
The reason why filter threads are often deteriorated is that in order to optically exploit even the smallest fraction of area avaliable for the front lenses, they were machined down to a small fraction of millimeter and are thus extremely fragile. The lens was sold with reinforcing protective chromed rings which were supposed to be left in place unless a filter had to be applied. Many dumb photographers lost the protective rings at a point in time, with the obvious results that you describe.
I used to have RB and 180 mm lens and I would consider it as one of the best portrait lenses ever made. Sharp just enough for portraits, not over-contrasty, pleasing bokeh, ecpecially good for black and white... It is better than Zeiss Sonnars 150 and 180 mm for Hasselbad ( the last one is great, but too sharp for portraits and 6x7 is better compare to 6x6 for sure)I'd say not at all, the only thing they all have in common is being triplet derivatives and being long focus lenses (that is not telelenses).
The "standard" C 180mm has a sort of reversed-Tessar design, with the cemented doublet facing the subject. This Tessar variant is quite peculiar and as far as I know very few other manufacturers used it, among them Taylor, Taylor and Hobson.
The C 180mm SUPER was radically redesigned to an extent that it's even hard to tell that it's still a triplet derivative; it may be recognised as such by considering that the expected front positive element is composed by two split positive groups of which the first is a cemented doublet closely followed by a positive singlet; this said, the central negative element and the rightmost positive element should be easily detected. This scheme is once again very peculiar, and it is worth nothing that also Asahi used it in another highly regarded lens: the 135mm Takumar, with the bright f:2,5 variant being nearly identical to this one.
View attachment 223244
For their RB 180mm Mamiya went a more travelled path by choosing the super-classic Voigtländer signature optical scheme of the Heliar / Apo Lanthar lenses, but putting the shutter/diaphragm assembly on the back:
View attachment 223243
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