Greetings to youCinestill cs41
Yes. I mixed the chemicals two days ago and have developed approximately 5 rolls of 35mm and 2 rolls of 120 film. The two rolls of 120 are the most recent developed.Greetings to you
Can you tell me how long you have been using this kit
Okay ,,Yes. I mixed the chemicals two days ago and have developed approximately 5 rolls of 35mm and 2 rolls of 120 film. The two rolls of 120 are the most recent developed.
Ok, thank you. I will try that and report back.Okay ,,
It seems to me that the agitation was very slow.
I advise you to re-bleach (Step No. 2) + (Step No. 3)
Repeat these steps and you may get acceptable results.
Do you use a Jobo processor, or another kind of rotation system? If so, is it perfectly level?a jobo 1500 series reel tank
Do you use a Jobo processor, or another kind of rotation system? If so, is it perfectly level?
If you're not using rotary processing, are you using the correct amount of processing liquids?
Can you post a photo of the negatives themselves that clearly shows the problem?
I use a Unicolor uniroller system that automatically agitates. I have been using it with a towel since sometimes the tank lid leaks so maybe it's not 100% level. (it looks level to the eye) I also fill the tank with about 500ml of developer (the minimum calls for 470ml).Do you use a Jobo processor, or another kind of rotation system? If so, is it perfectly level?
If you're not using rotary processing, are you using the correct amount of processing liquids?
Can you post a photo of the negatives themselves that clearly shows the problem?
Yeah, it has that look for sure.I was going to say the exact same thing, classic not enough fluid in the tank look.
Hm, ok, that doesn't help all that much to be honest. I should have been clearer: can you post a photo (not a scan) of a piece of the film, backlit, that shows the entire width of the film and several affected frames?
Yeah, it has that look for sure.
@reelquickfilmlab How quickly do you go from a vertical position to fill the tank to the horizontal rotation position? Your problem might be due to too much delay there. If you let the tank sit for 10 seconds or so before you mount it into the roller base, you're in trouble.
Hm, ok, that doesn't help all that much to be honest. I should have been clearer: can you post a photo (not a scan) of a piece of the film, backlit, that shows the entire width of the film and several affected frames?
It almost seems like you also (on top of the fluid problem) have some dichroic fog going on.
Yeah, it has that look for sure.
@reelquickfilmlab How quickly do you go from a vertical position to fill the tank to the horizontal rotation position? Your problem might be due to too much delay there. If you let the tank sit for 10 seconds or so before you mount it into the roller base, you're in trouble.
Yea it is probably definitely sitting for more than 10 seconds. So should I just try to pour the chemicals in and out as quick as I can (regardless of letting the last few drops in) and place on the roller? Also is that more important to not let it sit with the developer than the blix? or does that apply to both.
I think you've already got your hands on the crux of the problem.Your problem might be due to too much delay there. If you let the tank sit for 10 seconds or so before you mount it into the roller base, you're in trouble.
Yes to both, basically.So should I just try to pour the chemicals in and out as quick as I can (regardless of letting the last few drops in) and place on the roller? Also is that more important to not let it sit with the developer than the blix?
Yes to both, basically.
When pouring in the developer, do it as quickly as you can and then flip the tank onto the roller base. Shouldn't take more than about 10 seconds from the first drop entering the tank to the moment when the tank starts rotating.
When pouring out, same story; quick. No, a few remaining drops is not an issue; the stop bath or blix will kill them.
Indeed, this is mostly critical with the developer. I would also recommend using a stop bath between developer and blix if you're not already doing this. A 1-2% solution of acetic acid will do.
Presoak for color film is a must.
Kodak or Fuji ever said something like that?
I think it helps me a little with large format, but presoaking alone doesn't always give me perfectly even C-41 development on large format negatives.
Yes, Kodak advises to presoak C41 and slide films.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?