thinking to build darkroom, diagram included

[Christopher Colley]

Hello!

Since I moved into my current house I have had this empty spot of a place that looked like a great area for a darkroom yet I've never given much thought to actually planning it out and doing it.. It is quite a small area, basically a 6 foot by 6foot box, with one wall being longer at 9foot ....it would be an amazing upgrade from the laundry room I use now!

There is easy access to plumbing since a bathroom is right behind where the sink would go. There is also easy access to a laundry room with a large basin for print washing/drying if needed. Also, being a bathroom with a vanity there is easy access to electricy through the same wall..

To the left of the darkroom sink is an outside wall that would make ventilation a breeze.. This space has NO windows once the various doors in the area are closed (3 of them!), so dark proofing it wouldn't be an issue.. It is in a 'half' basement with a doorway out of the basement in the laundry room, an exit about 10 feet from the sink area. There is already central air/heat in this area..

On the 'dry side' is a wall with easy electric access though the wall.

my omega d-II can do 16x20 comfortably, but has a large base! 2foot by 3 foot

I generally work in 8x10, but I would like room for 3 16x20 trays in the sink 'just incase'.. The sink would be 6 foot wide at most, and about 2 feet deep.

I would like to have a little dry side work area to coat and expose alt processes/matte stuff/various things...and to make use of the space put a little shelf behind the enlarging station.. for film unloading right near the sink


Does this seem like a usable layout? The sink has to stay where it is, but the dry side is open for discussion.......

I have tried to put a lot of notes, if there is any suggestions, warnings, or questions I'd love to hear them.

http://images.depressing.org/art/145579911043953feab9d36.gif here is a diagram of the proposed usage of the space.... (I am sorry metric people, its in feet and inches)

edit: film drying for sheets would happen in the laundry room as well as 35mm, unless i got a film drier for stainless reels which would probably be installed by the 'work area' dry side wall

 

[Mick Fagan]

I would suggest that you somehow grout the floor tiles to seal the floor from getting all sorts of smelly concoctions living in the minute cracks.

Possibly a good idea to have a wall mounted safelight on the south wall facing up towards th eceiling at a 70º angle and facing north. This works very well in my own darkroom and with the addition of another two directional safelights facing downwards at strategic locations is as near to perfect lighting at a very cheap cost. All the safelights should have their own switches so you can operate under dimmer light when requied.

What about the possibility of adding some shelving on the top of the south wall foundation? 7" is quite a nice size for lots of funny little things one needs.

I take it you have two doors? This is probably a requirement of the building but I settled on a door in the middle of the short end in my own D/room (your Nth wall).

Are you going to have space under the enlarger table for your feet? This allows you to sit on a chair for hours of comfortable printing!

Mick.

 

[Christopher Colley]

The space between the 12" square tiles is just enough for a fingernail.., the whole basement has these, would you suggest only coating the area right around the sink?

I've been using a little red light bulb as a safelight, replacing the laundry rooms bulb, I was trying to consider where a safelight would go best in such a small space.

There is already a little wooden shelf on the foundation block halfway up the wall, its 7" deep, the walls are all finished.. adding some shelfs above the one on the foundation is an idea I actually hadn't considered!

There is a door to the right of the darkroom sink that leads to a laundry room, once inside the laundry room facing west you are standing right next to the bathroom that is on the south side of the house on the darkroom sink wall.. on the north side of the large empty room (just out of the diagram in the top right) there is 6 steps that lead upstairs with a door. In the bottom right corner there is a doorway that leads into the room on the other side of the dry side wall..

This space is sort of 'in the middle', and out in the open but could be covered with a curtain easily to keep it hidden if needed, leaving only the little 'work area' in sight.. with some drawers and drying racks built in..

yes, I will plan for space under the enlarger for my legs, I am a small guy, but would like a little tiny shelf under the enlarger for odds and ends..., the table has to be a bit low to allow for easy working and for the not-so-high ceiling

the north wall is unusable space, it is the access to the door to get to the heating and cooling of the house, boilers..etc.. So there is really 4 doors, only 3 of which have SUNLIGHT on the other sides. I really only have the 3 walls shown to work with

oh, and one more thing, I am left handed, any lefties have any suggestions that might help me avoid problems in the future? switches/other stuff.. I develop from left to right, just like I read..

 

[Mick Fagan]

I would suggest you grout or seal all of the tiles. Every single darkroom I've been in, has at one stage or another, seen some liquid on the floor.

The safelights I have are Kodak 8x10" pyramid x 2 with Ilford brown filters, and on your south wall I have a Kodak 12 x 9" (I think) facing the ceiling with another Ilford brown filter.

Basic safelight procedure is a 15W globe (filtered) 4' away from sensitive B&W paper, acording to Ilford that is. I also have various filters from red through to a super dark green for colour work, which I've never used (green that is).

If you are making a permanent darkrom then think seriously about the lighting situation. Basically darkrooms only have to be dark when film is being loaded, or colour paper is out. The rest of the time you should think about working in a comfortable environment.

I also have string switches for my lights. I don't know their real name but alongside the enlarger and over the sink I have switches on the ceiling that have string hanging from, which, when pulled, turn the lights either on or off. That was a safety feature for having damp hands and using electrical switches.

I don't think being left handed has any bearing on switches at all!

Mick.

 

[Neal]

Dear Christopher,

I would like to second the suggestion that you grout and seal the floor tiles (the entire floor). You don't want stuff getting between and possibly underneath the tiles. It's really not much more work. If you like narrow joints, use unsanded grout and 1/16" spacers. An option that may or may not be less work or cost is to use an epoxy floor sealing paint. Make sure to seal all the cement walls. Something like Dryloc (sp?) paint as a base is a good idea. This will keep the dust down.

Good luck. I am jeolous of your space!

Neal Wydra

 

[Christopher Colley]

the area is actually 'finished' already drywalled off sealed up and painted white well before I moved in.. the foundation goes halfway up but is also drywalled and covered..

thanks!

Make sure to seal all the cement walls. Something like Dryloc (sp?) paint as a base is a good idea. This will keep the dust down.

Neal Wydra