Thinking about a 350mm lens for the Hasselblad camera...

eli griggs

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I've mentioned this before but this is a good reason to bring it up again.

While you could make a 3D printed yoke or carve one out of hardwood, to accept the camera mount screw on a monopod, a simple, plastic telescoping gun rest, with a built in rifle yoke is easy enough to carry as a large lens support.

After the tripod, camera and lens are set-up, position the yoke forward and vertical under the lens and drop the leg to the ground, with a firm, steady lock up of the sections so as to support the weight of the lens.

Edit; Here's one to view.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bog...id=98efbf0542c519f5006cda045c2bf83b&gclsrc=ds
 
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pkupcik

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Decided to do a non-scientific test today and compare 250mm Superachromat against 180mm CFE with 1.4XE and also 2xMutar on Canon 5DIV. Scene was about 4 meters away. Here are my conclusions:

  • 180mm with 1.4XE resolves the same detail as 250mm SA. The image quality is virtually the same, unless shooting high contrast scene where LOCA is visible on 180mm.
  • 180mm with 2xMutar resolves more detail than 250mm SA. Again, the only issue is LOCA on 180mm if high contrast scene.
  • Shooting 180mm wide open at f/4 with either teleconverter produces outstanding results. Shooting at f/8 helps a little, but f/4 is already amazing.
  • I did not compare 250SA with teleconverter attached in this test, but did in the past, and both teleconverters resulted in increased detail. My guess is that 250SA with 1.4XE is probably equal to 180mm with 2xMutar.
Overall, I'm mighty impressed with 180mm CFE with or without teleconverters.
 
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Sirius Glass

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I used them250mm CF lens with an off brand 2X extender for a while. I decided to upgrade to a 500mm C lens and then a 2XE. I am glad that I did. If you will use the 350mm lens, then by all means go ahead and get it. the 350mm lens is more maneuverable than the 500mm lens.
 

eli griggs

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Interesting work;even if it's based on one person's metric, I find this helpful.

I only have a 1.4 telecoverter and I still need to repair my 500mm C T*, so I won't be doubling my optic range anytime soon.

I do have the 180mm Cfi Hasselblad and love it's sharpness, but I would rather have the 500mm C t* working than doubling the regular, non-super chromatic 250mm Cfi.

If I did have the 350mm, I would use it even if the 500mm was repaired, as I can carry both while shooting out of the car with fairly short walks.
 
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I started this thread a while ago and it has been interesting to hear what other people have done and chosen to do for long lens options.

I have a 250mm (non-SA), the 180CFi and a 150 CFi and I also have the 1.4x and 2x mutar TCs and have decided to not get a longer lens since I probably won't use it too terribly much (and frankly, absolute sharpness isn't really all that important to me), so I think the TCs will be sufficient.

I just got back from a trip into Utah and found I used the 100mm, 180mm and then the 60mm the most. I pulled out the 250mm for a few shots and converted the 180mm+2xTC for some shots. I also made a handful of shots with the 38mm. I even used the 80mm a few times, and at one point, wished I had the 120mm macro. The 50mm never got used, but I could have pulled that instead of the 60mm probably. All B&W shooting. Mostly Delta 400 and a couple of Delta 3200.


---Michael
 

DREW WILEY

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I don't shoot a Hassie, but do get a LOT of usage out of my Pentax 6X7 300EDIF lens - probably optically superior to any Hassie tele. The key is a serious tripod and no wobble-bobble head. I bolt the lens collar directly to the tripod platform top.
 

Hassasin

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One thing I got for my 350mm 5.6 CF is an aftermarket tripod collar to help balance it and take some of the stress off the lens mount

I have asked about it in a thread but no responses. And am yet to find even a photo of where the collar was put on the camera, since technically there is no "right" place for it.

Do you mount it just in front of the first "obstruction" on the lens barrel?
 
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I have a lens support bracket for the camera and the 180mm or 250mm with TCs attached, since it gets pretty long at that point. It's not ideal, but it does appear to be a lot more stable when balanced in the bracket rather than on the camera mount.


I also have replaced the HB mounting plate on the camera with an Arca Swiss compatible plate made by Hejinar:


No other adapters are needed. Not sure if that plate will fit any other cameras other than the 501C, but I worked with Chris Hejnar to develop the SWC/M plate so he is really great about modifications.

As for your question on the dedicated lens collar; I haven't use one of those specifically, but there are a few companies that made similar products to use on other lenses (IIRC, RRS used to make one for a 70-200 Nikon lens years ago, and other companies make something similar for telescopes, etc.). You basically would clamp it as close to the balance point as you can get it, which I suspect is right in front of the focus-shutter collar mechanism.

It looks/feels like it would be a bit back-heavy with it that far forward. However, if you are intending to use an AS plate on it, you could get a longer plate and mount it so that you have a bit of room to balance the camera better on the tripod head. That may be the approach I'd take. Alternatively, the lens support bracket I shoed above should work well and may give you better flexiblity.
 

Sirius Glass

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At the balance point on the lens alone or the balance point of the camera and lens. I prefer the latter.
 

Sirius Glass

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I had the 2x but not the 2.4x and I was not really interested in a longer lens than my 250mm. I called KEH about something else and since many of their sellers know me by name, one told me that the he a had the 500 C lens for a price I would not pass up. I only had CF lenses, but with the price including shipping, I could not pass it up. When I got it, it jammed the camera and I sent the lens for their CLA. They took apart the complete lenses, CLA'd and the recollimated it, and returned it at no cost. Hasselblad told me the recollimation would have cost over twice what I paid for the lens. I nice lens, but I does not get used much. When there is a heard of animals and I want a head shot of only one, the herd promptly moves far enough away that I can still only get a herd shot with the 2XE. How do they know how to do that?
 

eli griggs

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How do they know how to do that?

I use to photograph a local Deer herd or herds (I could never determine if it was a huge herd or several on the same property) with a Canon 300mm 4L and occasionally, with telecoverter, giving about 600mm.

This was a large preserve by a Duke Power coal fired electrical power plant, mainly for Geese, Ducks and other migrating and residential waterfowl.

What I found was, without a blind, it was a matter of setting up, tripod, ect., while the herd was making the rounds on the property and simply settling in, not trying to put the sneak on them or appear to be hiding, but calmly, quietly waiting there, motor drive off, and at first focusing my attention elsewhere, the nearby pond usually had birds enjoying its being there.

Keep in mind, these were corn fed waterfowl and deer, so they did not spook easily and go off and hide during the day.

After awhile, the main part of the herd would often wander much closer to me and even in the rut, mostly ignoring me, my camera and usually a friend that would accompany me on these shoots.

There's no stopping quick, jerky motions in a herd, but there was over the day, ample opportunities to get decent shots, including some close in head shots with that basic setup and no place to be that was not where I was.

Man fed herds usually tolerate the presence of a few people, especially when they grow use to seeing you and your kit, but not everyone has the patience or, no longer possess the ability to limit their movements, but if you want the shots, you can get them, with this technique or others used by real wildlife photograph professionals.

In my, old, limited experience.
 

Ai Print

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Budget approved, super clean example of the 350SA purchased for a reasonable price. I can’t wait to get it and put it to good use.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Since you went for a HASSELBLAD<I assume optical quality is important to you. The hard truth is: Even a Carl Zeiss extender cannot change the laws of optics and will degrade image quality beyond your liking;acceptable for some; horseshit for the critical!
 

Sirius Glass

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On revisiting this topic, I have gotten a lot of use of my 250mm lens and do not get a lot of use of my 500mm lens. I think if I had a 350mm lens, that I would use it much more than the 500mm lens.
 
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Circling back on this as I find myself using a converter on the 250mm a good bit more than I expected, so I'm thinking about a 350mm again...

How does the hood and filters work with the CF and the superachromat CFE lenses? Is it the same 86mm threaded adapter and then a large 93mm hood for both lenses? Actually, it looks like it would also work on the C lens and at least one of the 500mm lenses as well maybe...

Second, I can see that there are lots of the non-superachromat lenses available for a decent price but the superachromat is pretty uncommon and super expensive... I know at least one user on this forum has used both and I'd like to get a sense whether there are real-world differences when shooting landscape details, probably stopped down at most a stop or two from maximum. I don't like to spend lots of money, but shooting with a lens that is a bit lesser than the other lenses I shoot with (mostly CFI/CFE of multiple different focal lengths) would be a bummer if side-by-side I couldn't pair up images and have the 350mm shots seamlessly integrate with the rest.
 
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