Think Of A Mamiya RB67

Theo Sulphate · Jan 28, 2018

Unlike Hasselblad, the RB67 Pro S and Pro SD have interlocks that prevent mounting and unmounting a lens unless the body and lens are both cocked (instruction manual, pg. 12-13). One less thing to think about.

M. Axel Wikstrom · Jan 28, 2018

Theo Sulphate said:
Unlike Hasselblad, the RB67 Pro S and Pro SD have interlocks that prevent mounting and unmounting a lens unless the body and lens are both cocked (instruction manual, pg. 12-13). One less thing to think about.

My Hasselblads don't let me mount or unmount lenses unless both are cocked.

Sirius Glass · Jan 28, 2018

wjlapier · Jan 29, 2018

The body is coming from KEH. I'm glad they have the 180 day warranty--I actually had to use one of these used camera warranties once--not KEH though. Lens from Japan. I've bought many cameras and lenses from Japan and only had one so-so experience--seller worked it out fine. Anyway, read the manual once and will go over it again, especially when the camera is in my hands before I load film in it. Yes, I plan on using it for 70mm, but also for 120. All pieces are accounted for and plenty of reading been done. Everything should arrive this coming week so more reading. BTW, I use a Fujifilm GX680IIIs so a large camera won't shock me first time out.

Looking forward to it. I really appreciate all the advice.

Theo Sulphate · Jan 29, 2018

M. Axel Wikstrom said:
My Hasselblads don't let me mount or unmount lenses unless both are cocked.

Sirius Glass said:
+1

In 24 years, none of my Hasselblads have jammed either, nor have I ever tried to mount a lens when either body or lens is uncocked. But some people manage to do it and jam their camera.

I found this interesting quote on David Odess' web site (last paragraph, emphasis mine):

" Is it better to store my camera bodies and lenses wound or in the fired position?

Hasselblad cameras and lenses are designed so they perform properly with little or no special precautionary measures. This applies to storing cameras and lenses over extended periods of time, so there is no need to fire the cameras or "trip" the lenses before storing them.

Hasselblad engineers have never found any evidence to show that the life of a spring is shortened if the spring is kept tensioned, even after extended periods on non-use.

Hasselblad suggests that cameras and lenses be stored in the wound position. This eliminates the possibility of a camera jam caused by attaching an uncocked lens to a wound body, or vice versa. "

http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html

David T T · Jan 29, 2018

I use all "C" lenses. All of mine are great, plenty of sharpness and contrast. 50/65/90/127/180mm

The KL lenses seem sharper by a touch, equalling the best lenses out there. I just like the all-metal-and-glass vibe of the C series. They can be maintained for a lifetime.

Sirius Glass · Jan 29, 2018

Theo Sulphate said:
In 24 years, none of my Hasselblads have jammed either, nor have I ever tried to mount a lens when either body or lens is uncocked. But some people manage to do it and jam their camera.

After a lens has been removed, I have had a cocked lens release and I then used the tool to recock the lens. As a result, I always check that a lens is still cocked before I mount it

wjlapier · Feb 3, 2018

Here it is with a 70mm back--with the GX680IIIs to show how tiny it is:

Andrew D · Feb 3, 2018

Fantastic beast. I use the prism finder, 3 lenses, two backs, and the polaroid back regularly. Below is a sample of the 6x7 on fujifilm's instant film.

You'll love being able to focus VERY close and the big, beautiful negatives.

You can get replacement light seals on ebay for cheap, and although it's annoying to scrape off the old stuff, fixed the only problem I've ever had with it.

wjlapier · Feb 3, 2018

The body came from KEH. They assured me the light seals were fine and no holes in the bellows. Light seals are fine and everything works well.

I have a polaroid back for the GX680IIIs. I really like using the polaroid back, but it doesn't expose all of the film.

haha...I just noticed the title of this thread is "Think" not "Thinking" Of A RB67.

Now I need to find a back for 120 film. And Print File pages for 70mm film, if there is such a thing.

WilmarcoImaging · Feb 3, 2018

wjlapier said:
Here it is with a 70mm back--with the GX680IIIs to show how tiny it is:

Congratulations on the cameras and nice images.

The RB67 looks like a point and shoot next the GX680!

markfitzgerald · Feb 7, 2018

A couple of things I found out when using/buying lenses for my RB67 ProS. First, spring for the Mamiya mirror lockup cable release. It makes life a lot easier. Second, if you are purchasing used lenses, test them using the mirror lock up. I've purchased a few that had to go back because the seller never actually tried the lens with the mirror lock up, and for some reason sometimes the lenses don't trigger correctly because they are defective in some way. I don't know the mechanics of it (maybe someone here does) but what seems to happen is the lens works fine with regular shooting, but when you try to use mirror lockup, the shutter doesn't work correctly.

wjlapier · Feb 7, 2018

markfitzgerald said:
A couple of things I found out when using/buying lenses for my RB67 ProS. First, spring for the Mamiya mirror lockup cable release. It makes life a lot easier. Second, if you are purchasing used lenses, test them using the mirror lock up. I've purchased a few that had to go back because the seller never actually tried the lens with the mirror lock up, and for some reason sometimes the lenses don't trigger correctly because they are defective in some way. I don't know the mechanics of it (maybe someone here does) but what seems to happen is the lens works fine with regular shooting, but when you try to use mirror lockup, the shutter doesn't work correctly.

Thanks for that info. I'm about to add the cable for mirror lock up. I'll keep in mind what you said if I decide to add another lens.

voceumana · Feb 8, 2018

Also, get one of the Mamiya QR Quick Release tripod systems. It can be a little difficult to rotate the back when mounted on some tripod heads--the QR system helps provide clearance and QR plate fits to the camera better than some tripod heads.

wjlapier · Feb 11, 2018

I just want to thank everyone for the input and advice. I've been using the camera a lot shooting some 70mm film and 120 ( in a 220 back ). The 220 back was a great suggestion since the prices are so low compared to comparable 120 backs. The camera is easy for me to carry around when I go out to shoot. I started using it on a monopod but found handholding it not too bad. Made a nice handle with a Leica strap I had and a pair of Optech connectors. My plan originally was to use the camera to shoot 70mm film, but I really like the images from the lens ( 90 KL ) I'll most likely shoot 120 in it too. My other 120 cameras are a Fujifilm GX680IIIs, Rolleicord III, and a Certo Dolly SS. Anyway, I'm about $450 invested in the current setup with a 6 month warranty from KEH--another great idea to buy from them.

paul ron · Feb 11, 2018

watch out with those plastic spade buckles of the opted straps. you are carrying a heavy load.

johnha · Feb 11, 2018

paul ron said:
watch out with those plastic spade buckles of the opted straps. you are carrying a heavy load.

+1
I use zip ties to secure both halves of each buckle together for my P67 - I have no need to undo them.

wjlapier · Feb 23, 2018

It's been quite a few rolls since I purchased the camera. Started with thice e 90 KL and recently added the 65 KL. I'm certain I want something on the tele end, but not sure if I should get the 180 or something shorter. Found another blue colored strap for the RB but it also makes me nervous carrying it around. Are there any strap clips that are practically impossible to open? I might try the zip tie idea but was wondering if there is something safer? 6x8 largest negative we can get out of this camera?

film_man · Feb 24, 2018

I had the 180KL and 250KL, the 250 is a big and tricky to handle unless you're on a tripod. The 180 is just amazing. I found the original strap the best.

Theo Sulphate · Feb 24, 2018

Mamiya lenses are so inexpensive, yet of high quality. The only lenses I don't have for my RB are those longer than 180mm - some of the heavier ones, including the beautiful 100-200mm zoom, require a bracket attached between lens and body so as not to bend the focusing rack.

cb1 · Feb 25, 2018

I bought a Pro-S from Japan two years ago. It came with the 90mm lens and I really enjoy it. I also just picked up a 180mm lens for it and I'm excited to get out and use it. Dang weather is keeping it indoors.
I also have the L-grip and prism finder. Not too bad to carry around with the op-tec strap kit. I love it.
I love brining the beast to work, my friends are always shocked at the size of it. LOL

Theo Sulphate · Feb 25, 2018

cb1 said:
...
I love brining the beast to work, my friends are always shocked at the size of it. LOL

Get a Fuji GX 680 III (the one with perspective controls) - it makes the RB67 look like a Minox.

Larry the sailor · Feb 25, 2018

wjlapier said:
It's been quite a few rolls since I purchased the camera. Started with thice e 90 KL and recently added the 65 KL. I'm certain I want something on the tele end, but not sure if I should get the 180 or something shorter. Found another blue colored strap for the RB but it also makes me nervous carrying it around. Are there any strap clips that are practically impossible to open? I might try the zip tie idea but was wondering if there is something safer? 6x8 largest negative we can get out of this camera?

I've got the OpTech strap with the metal clips and plastic "locks" as much of a PITA it is to take the strap off intentionally I have a hard time thinking it will come apart on it's own. That being said, I still check them every time I put the strap around my neck.

Edward Romero · Jul 1, 2018

I bought my RB67 in 1984. Only problem I ever had was the film back failed years later and was able to get it fixed. The camera is definitely a great choice for landscapes. It will make 16x20” prints still sharp. Won for me at the Santa Clara County Fair with a 16”x20” B&W print of Half Dome. The 6x7 format needs very little cropping. Also own a Mamiya 330
Pro S. They be a little heavy but built to last.

flavio81 · Jul 1, 2018

Edward Romero said:
I bought my RB67 in 1984. Only problem I ever had was the film back failed years later and was able to get it fixed. The camera is definitely a great choice for landscapes. It will make 16x20” prints still sharp. Won for me at the Santa Clara County Fair with a 16”x20” B&W print of Half Dome. The 6x7 format needs very little cropping. Also own a Mamiya 330
Pro S. They be a little heavy but built to last.

Same combo here: Mamiya RB67 and C330 (plus C220). RB67 is my favorite medium format camera -- and i've tried Pentax 67 (shutter vibrates like a truck), Hasselblad 500C (mirror recoils like a gun, viewfinder tinier), Bronica EC(same), various Yashicas, Rolleicord, Rolleiflex (great but no lens interchange), and Rolleiflex SL66.

The only one that tops it is the SL66, which I nominate best built, finest camera of all times (comparing the SL66 to a Hasselblad 500 is like comparing a 1970's Mercedes S-class to a 1970's Volvo 240), sadly I couldn't afford the one that was up for sale here.

Think Of A Mamiya RB67

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