These slides i shot.....

The Gap

H
The Gap

  • 4
  • 2
  • 47
Ithaki Steps

H
Ithaki Steps

  • 2
  • 0
  • 71
Pitt River Bridge

D
Pitt River Bridge

  • 5
  • 0
  • 78

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CMoore

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I used my Canon A-1 that shoots B$W and Color Negs fine.
This was Retro Chrome 160 from FPP.
1. I may have had a bum/low battery, it is reading 5.7 volts.
2. I had the ASA at 200 instead of 160. Do not know how much that really tweaks the meter.
3. Does it look like i am underexposed by 1 or even 2 stops.?
4. Do the pics look blue to you guys.?
The whole roll looks just like these two frames.
Thank You

http://i.imgur.com/3BlYVGC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/w3hfMEX.jpg
 
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I used my Canon A-1 that shoots B$W and Color Negs fine.
This was Retro Chrome 160 from FPP.
1. I may have had a bum/low battery, it is reading 5.7 volts.
2. I had the ASA at 200 instead of 160. Do not know how much that really tweaks the meter.
*** Small 'tweaks' like that have no effect on negative film, but are visible on chrome film. It's lost because.... (3)
3. Does it look like i am underexposed by 1 or even 2 stops.?
*** Yes. Both images are overexposed by 2+ stops
4. Do the pics look blue to you guys.?
*** Yes. Both images are very cyanic (blue). You stated the film is Retro Chrome; I have no experience with this but some 'retro' films have a deliberate casted look (cool to cold blue, or warm to red) about them to suggest 'aged'/old-faded images. The cyanic cast could be a feature, but I doubt it. What are the characteristics of the film?
Thank You

http://i.imgur.com/3BlYVGC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/w3hfMEX.jpg
 

Theo Sulphate

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A blue cast - almost as if an indoor (tungsten light balanced) film was used outdoors in daylight without a #85 filter.
 

AgX

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low colour saturation


Keep in mind that the film is old stock expired 12years ago.
 
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I found additional useful information on this FPP page about that film (#What is FPP RetroChrome film?):
Dead Link Removed

I've noted that is is re-packaged 2004-expired and (likely?) frozen Ektachrome 2239 stock (my experience with Ektachrome a long, long time back was that it could be cold/blue, similar to Fujichrome emulsions used in shadowed light); it is difficult to quantify this with the results you have shown, as I think the error is in gross over-exposure, compared to sample images posted on the FPP page, even with the warm-reddish 'retro' characteristic evident in the sample images. Of the cyanic cast; that could be related to age/poor storage. You didn't have it cross-processed? I reckon you should run another roll through the camera, with a fresh battery (the significance of the 5.7v battery is not clear) and with the ISO dial set correctly and any exposure compensation nulled.
 

AgX

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I do not see the point for a starter in (slide) photography to buy heavily expired film.
Especially when for the same money one could buy fresh film.

We should try to find out what any overexposure (if so) would be caused by. Sure not by setting the meter at ASA 200.
 

trondsi

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If this is the first time you shoot slide film, I would definitely recommend brand new E6 film from Fujifilm instead. Provia is good for all-round photography.
 
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CMoore

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Yeah, i had no idea this film was expired, and i have ordered some "new" film. :smile:
Thanks for the A-1 meter info, that is very interesting.....I appreciate It.
So, for slides, just follow the A-1 meter, and err on the side of a slightly underexposure.?
Thanks
 

Hatchetman

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I am pretty sure they are underexposed and the scanner is trying to do its best to make them look like they aren't. show us a quick snapshot of the the slide in your hand against a window. I bet they are very dark.
 

MattKing

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I am pretty sure they are underexposed and the scanner is trying to do its best to make them look like they aren't. show us a quick snapshot of the the slide in your hand against a window. I bet they are very dark.
Exactly - show us the slides, not scans of the slides.
 
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CMoore

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I did not have the slides shipped, just the scans. When i get the new film i will have the slides made also.
I know nothing about scanning Film/Slides/Negs and did not realize there could be this big of a discrepancy. So i burned up a roll real quick, sent it off to The Darkroom, and then waited to see how they came out.
Thanks
 

Kirks518

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I did not have the slides shipped, just the scans. When i get the new film i will have the slides made also.
I know nothing about scanning Film/Slides/Negs and did not realize there could be this big of a discrepancy. So i burned up a roll real quick, sent it off to The Darkroom, and then waited to see how they came out.
Thanks

IMO, and I think many others, not getting the physical slides defeats the purpose of shooting slides. I don't care what anyone says, a scanner and computer can not reproduce the magic of an actual slide.
 

GarageBoy

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What lab you use that doesn't give you the slides back. I'm hoping they didn't run it through c41
 

John Koehrer

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I realize you have an A-1, the AE-1 was very sensitive to battery voltage and would stop working at an
indicated 6V with no load.

Just curiousity on my part, I haven't found a source refering to the A-1 having a wheatstone
bridge circuit. Unless it's incorporated into the IC. Kin ya help out on this one?
 
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I do not see the point for a starter in (slide) photography to buy heavily expired film.
Especially when for the same money one could buy fresh film.

We should try to find out what any overexposure (if so) would be caused by. Sure not by setting the meter at ASA 200.

Possibly that overexposure is caused by the battery voltage; it has been stated by John Koehrer the A-1 is sensitive to discrepancies in battery voltage.
I agree with AgX though that a first time user should buy fresh slide film from e.g. Fuji (Provia for example) or Rollei. The results that have come up in this first experiment are defeatist and irregularities brought about by improper storage, expiration etc make it very hard to determine what exactly is at fault -- film or camera (or film+camera+fellow holding camera...)

I don't understand the comment that only scans were returned and not slides. That is quirky. You should at the very least always get the slides back, with scans optional.

For others, the disbelievers, yes it is very possible to replicate the look of slides in an RA-4 print, but you are going to have to do it by alternative means and with a lot of experience in matching colourimetrics/gamut. But it is easy to do. I'm doing it weekly! :smile:
 

cooltouch

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Yeah, i had no idea this film was expired, and i have ordered some "new" film. :smile:
Thanks for the A-1 meter info, that is very interesting.....I appreciate It.
So, for slides, just follow the A-1 meter, and err on the side of a slightly underexposure.?
Thanks

Actually, with E6 emulsions, I've found it best to set the meter at box speed. I used to slightly under expose Kodachrome, which improved saturation, from ISO 64 to ISO 80. But that was Kodachrome and what worked for it doesn't always work for E6. So, first time out, I'd recommend you stick to box speed with your fresh film.

Now, a word about your A-1's meter, if I may. I used to own an A-1 and I shot slides almost exclusively with it. Come to think of it, I still own an A-1, but it isn't the same camera. Okay, anyway, the A-1 has a meter with a mild bottom-centerweighted pattern. The "bottom" part is designed so that the meter pays less attention to the light values in the top half of the screen, reason being that, for your typical outdoors shot, bright sky will often be in the top half of the shot. But in real world experiences, which were often quite frustrating, I found the A-1 to be overly sensitive to ANY stray light that entered the frame. A bright light source in the corner of the frame, for example, would be enough to have the camera seriously underexpose the slide. I got to where I would be mostly paying attention to the light sources in the frame rather than composition.

My solution to the A-1's frustrating metering pattern? I bought an FTb, and then later an F-1. Both cameras use Canon's very useful and effective 12% partial area metering pattern. With that switch, almost all of my metering problems vanished.

Now, I'm not saying don't use an A-1 for slide photography, but I am saying be vigilant. Because slide emulsions just don't have the deep latitude that print film has. So when you're metering a scene, pay attention to the subject first and foremost, and let everything else fall where they may, exposure-wise, that is.
 
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CMoore

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What lab you use that doesn't give you the slides back. I'm hoping they didn't run it through c41
This is probably my fault, though their sight was a bit confusing to me.
When i first posted this, i got an email saying my order was ready for downloading. I thought that was it. Now, just this morning, i received another email saying my prints are on the way. So i imagine the slides are en route.
When they show up, i can let you guys know how much of a difference there is between the scans and the slides.
Thanks
 

trondsi

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This is what to do:
-buy new slide film, from Fujifilm
-use one roll of film to experiment a bit: do a lot of bracketing (e.g three shots of the same subject; underexpose one stop, normal exposure, overexpose one stop) also try two stops over and under relative to the camera meter
- study the results - the film itself, NOT scans. Use a light box and a loupe. Do the darker pictures look better in general? If so, then you should normally underexpose etc.

When done correctly, slide film can really blow you away with sheer crystal clear images. Good luck!
 
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